ER Bilge Switch Issue

[solanderi]

On a routine "pre-flight" I tripped the engine room float switch and it did not activate the bilge pump. The switch on the bridge was in the "auto" position. From the bridge I can activate the pump on the "manual" momentary position and the pump kicks on and the little red light activates next to the switch. I isolated the Rule-Amatic Plus float switch and it is functioning fine. Actually, because of its age I actually changed it out for a new (and definitely working) Rule switch. I don't know where a fuse could be but can't even think how it would fit into the problem. Also, how does the little activator light play in this circuit. If the light is not working, does that affect the switch or pump circuit? Any takers on this head scratcher ? Thanks,

Greg

 

[Bob Bradley]

Light should have no effect. Are you certain that the float switch is supplying 12v+ to the pump? A test light will confirm. You know the pump works,since you tested it from the bridge and it did. Therefore, if the float is supplying power it should also work. I'd recheck there first.

 

[MikeP]

When you say you activated the pump manually from the bridge and the light went on and the pump triggered, did you physically OBSERVE that the pump was operating? If so, then it has to be in the "auto" or float switch wiring or the switch itself. Since you checked with a known good switch, then there is a fault in the circuit - most likely a corroded connection or an internally corroded/broken wire in the circuit feeding the float switch when "auto" is selected.

As described, with the helm switch in the auto position, power is NOT being supplied to the float switch. So it should be fairly easy to isolate that particular circuit and correct the problem. Unless you have somehow managed to find two faulty float switches, it has to be in that circuit. Time to break out the old multimeter!

There are no separate fuses affecting the float switch...at least as originally installed by Hatteras and the light has no effect on the function of the pump/switch...again, at least as originally installed by Hatt!

 

[solanderi]

Thanks guys I will concentrate on the switch circuit. I am sure I was getting 13v from the float switch leg of the circuit in the bilge. Arrgh. This SHOULD be straight forward stuff. Might it also be at the actual bridge switch ? I will try a fresh approach with your recommendations.

 

[REBrueckner]

soldani..
I can't really tell from your descriptions what's going on...it's not easy to describe situations in unambiguous terms. As noted, the lamp should not affect pump operation; it is wired in parallel with the pump. Seems like you have the right idea: if the pump runs in one position and not another, then it's the latter circuit where the fault resides. Perhaps its a broken wire or corroded connection, not a fuse issue but who knows how aftermarket stuff gets installed .

If someone holds the momentary "on" are you SURE the pump is actually running??..can you hear it spinning or see water discharge??? Sometimes a toothpick can hold the switch "on" while you inspect below.
If the float does NOT turn the pump on, then there is a problem somewhere between the float switch to the pump or float switch to the flybridge switch. Don't assume the red pilot light means much unless you know where it's connected.

I don't personally like the rather popular on/off/auto bilge pump switches...too complicated and too many wires. But I guess if the float switch fails it does provide a way to turn on a pump. The few such switches I have had I never used except in "auto" mode. Some of my bilge pumps don't even have on/off switches...just a fuse,switch pump....unambiguous wires with everything in series. I don't want any bilge pumps accidentally shut off.

An advantage of a switch is you can turn the pump on and listen. I prefer to crawl to each float switch, lift and see if the pump actually comes on..once in the spring and again in the fall...that's the only failsafe method to assure each pump works properly. It also enables me to check there is nothing blocking the pump intake.

Anyway, the indicator lamp SHOULD be wired to the positive of the pump right at the pump...the closer to the pump the better.....so it should ideally mean "lamp on: pump has voltage"...but if the lamp connection, say on the flybridge, is actually connected to the output of the switch to the pump 30 feet away from the pump it's not such a good indicator. I don't know how Hatteras does that. But the lamp can't tell you the pump is running...you have to listen/look at the pump or observe water discharge for positive verification.

 

[solanderi]

Thanx for the help HOF. When originally checking the butt-end connectors they all looked perfect with no corrosion etc. I have had good luck with the Ancor shrink wrap connectors, that's what was messing me up a little. It turns out that one of the wires themselves had a hairline, spiral crack allowing water intrusion and the rest is history.

What helped the most from the HOF was confirming that I was on the right track and that I just needed to do a bit more detective work. The end result is that I know a little more and I have happy bilges again.

Greg