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Engine room Fans

  • Thread starter Thread starter Gina Marie
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Gina Marie

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 14, 2005
Messages
277
Hatteras Model
45' CONVERTIBLE-Series II (1984 - 1992)
I am looking into putting two fans 12V in my engine compartment a 45C. Primary purpose is to circulate air after I have shut down the engines. Has anyone purchased any fans for their engine room. Thanks Gina Marie/Tom
 
I use a 110vac squirrel cage blower on a timer, works very well. Grainger has a lot of these. I got mine from Allen Machine, they advertise in B&H. Doesn't make too much noise and pulls a lot of waste heat out of the ER.
 
My 45C came with two Jabsco exhaust blowers. I removed the hoses as its a diesel boat and I want to draw air from the TOP of the engine room (the hottest air), not the bottom (there's no fume issue as there is with gas)

Works well.
 
I have been thinking of doing this. I will be interested to see what you all use. I want to be able to blow air in to the engine room once I shut down, and when I am down there working to have some air circulating.
 
I have the same style fans that Jim referred to - 110V squirrel cages. They are not oem. They are dedicated to engine room cooling and are mounted on the ceiling of the eng room. A plenum carries the exhaust out via the side air intakes. They are intended to run after the engines are shut down. There are also separate ventilation blowers in each eng room for "fumes".

I plan to add a "normal" fan in each engine room to provide a breeze when I'm in there working during the summer. Anybody have a good suggestion for a small, rugged 110v fan that would work well for this use? Ideally, I'd like one that rotates back and forth. I could go to home depot but it's easier to ask here and then order it on the internet!
 
I have the oem 32v jabsco fans. I had a motor go out on one and I just called Sams for a replacement. That may be a good place to start.
 
I installed two Rule 235 CFM 4" diameter 12 volt inline blowers in my engine compartment and used aluminum dryer vent hose run up to the fresh air intake. Both are mounted on the starboard side and secured to the underside of the floor. This pulls air across the engine compartment. I also have a timer installed and wired the system into a separate circuit. Works great in the Summer to expel the hot air.

I looked at 110 volt squirel cage units but found none that were explosion proof.
 
Thank you for the input, what do I need to know about what "eze2bme " about explosion proof. I am looking at a 12 volt fan by schaefer. Thanks Tom
 
"Explosion proof" probably means ignition protected which is an electric motor that is completely sealed in it's case so no sparks from the contact brushes can start fumes on fire. Regular electric motors have air vents and the sparks inside are in contact with fumes in the area. To be in compliance with ABYC standards, engine room equipment must all be ignition protected. If you only have diesels in there (no gasoline) then it's not much of an issue. How about using the engine room blowers? Put your hand in the exhaust air from the outside air vent and you'll feel how strong the original 32V blowers are. Like Karl, I took the intake vent hoses off so they draw air from the top of the ERs and blow it outside, bringing cool air in the intake vents. Simple solution.

Doug Shuman
 
What I found was that it seemed easier to pull hot air out of the ER after shutdown- my 110v blower is connected to one of the flex hoses from the air intakes. (actually the only one left as I removed the other flex hoses...). It will pull a fair amount of outside air in and across the engines. Even better would be TWO of these, one on each side, and since they don't draw much I may do that. I think the length of time they run may be as important as how much air they pull across, or nearly so.
Some Hatteras models came with engine room fans. I would contact Steve and see what the spec was, they will either have them or know how to get them, and you can use what they used back in the day. I think the 70 MY had them- I have some old brochures that mention them as standard equipment.
 
Oh, and you might find some of this kind of equipment in McMaster-Carr also.
 
So, the side vents are acting as exhausts when shut down?

It seems to me that this set up would reduce the total amount of airflow to the engines when they are running. Or will the squirrel cage allow air to enter the ER when the blowers are not being used?
 
Genesis said:
My 45C came with two Jabsco exhaust blowers. I removed the hoses as its a diesel boat and I want to draw air from the TOP of the engine room (the hottest air), not the bottom (there's no fume issue as there is with gas)

Works well.
Not clear on why. Since my conversion from gas to diesel, i had not thought about changing the hoses around for the blower. Is there a maintenance issue here where I should draw in cooler outside air into the engine room after shutdown? Any generator issues while it is running on the hook?
 
The cooler the engine room the better, especially if you have to go down there and work! :D
 
No kidding. Yes, the squirrel cage fan passes air backwards freely when it is not running. I suspect that the intake vents on most of our boats are not sized for modern diesels which need a huge volume of air both for combustion and for cooling. It is not easy to put bigger vents in and keep the original look of the boat. Tom Slane's vents look great and are made a lot better than the old ones, but I wanted to keep the vertical look of the old ones...
In his book, The Nature of Boats, Dave Gerr has quite a bit of information on engine room ventilation, including a formula to determine whether your boat has enough square inches of vent area. Having that doesn't guarantee that it is enough, but it is a step in the right direction.
One of his contentions is this: engine room blowers should be arranged so as to always exhaust air, never blow outside air into the engine room. The theory, I think, is that raising engine room pressure could conceivably cause odors or CO to get into the interior spaces if the exhaust system was leaky. I would think that having air blown INTO the engine room while the boat was running would be good- the problem occurs when you shut down. Blowing air into the engine room is not helpful in cooling it- you need to pull hot air out. This, in turn, would mean two sets of blowers. Too complex for me.
I suppose this all depends on whether the engines can pull enough air into the engine room while operating. If I were designing a boat from scratch, I would just use very large air intakes and exhaust blowers- plus maybe a set of fans to move air around when trying to cool the engine room after shutdown.
 
Our 85 36C also came with two 250 cfm 4" exhaust fans. One each side. Flange mounted to inside face of hull behind rear facing scoop. I like others simply cut off the flex hoses just below the floor. Mixed results. The air short-circuited from the combustion air intake openings under the cockpit coaming to the fan hoses and out the sides. This left the rest of the engine room and especially the front of the engine room where the air stagnates quite hot. I removed the fans from the hull sides and flange mounted them directly to the plywood floor where the hoses went through. I added a 4" 90 to each fan and pointed them towards the front of the engine room. The air is supplied to the fans through both of the rear facing scoops on each side. Now I bring in 500 cfm free air to the front of the engine room. The air mixes well because of the high velocity and gets forced to the rear where it is either consumed by the engines or pushed out the openings under the cockpit coaming. End result; Engine room temps dropped from 120F to 100F with 90F ambient air. And servicing in October with 500 cfm of 60F air blowing on you is nice.
 
Some good ideas here. I discussed this issue over the summer. My boat has hull vents and gunnel vents, 1967, gas engines. the gunnel vents point forward and backwards, same on each side. 5" hoses attach and run forward and aft of each engine, at bottom. my hull vents simply vent behind the salon wall, they are completely open half way up, there are a series of holes in deck behind salon wall. I was considering lining the hull vent on one side of the boat with regular turbine fans 12v dc. the fans i found are brushless and move 350cfm. can add 3 to 4 of these. insulate behind the salon bulkheads etc for sound and air leaks. Theory is that it will pull hot air through the floor on that side of the boat, draw across from other side. when fans are off it should vent fine as well.
 
I have the hoses for the blowers still attached on my '85 45C (but not for long after reading this thread). Are the blowers supposed to be run constantly while the mains are on? The batteries are aft of the engine room.
 
I run mine at idle and after shutdown. At any significant engine speed the engines "eat" enough air that you get a LOT of airflow through the engine room.

The big deal is the heat soak after you shut down - that's when ER temps can really get up there. Stick a wireless thermometer sender down there over the genny (where I put mine) and see what 'ya got.
 
I have a 45C (1970) and I seemed to go thru' blower fans every 2 seasons. No problems now for 4 years. I built a small containement box around the inside of the hull air intakes and fitted 24volt 10" truck radiators fans to suck air in as the 8v71's need all theair they can get. The boxes centre the airflow and are drained to collect spray which drians into the bilge (not much - a cup full in heavy seas). The radiator fans cost about $145 (Australian Dollars) - about 75% of $US. They are designed to go all day everyday and are easily replaced when they wear out. If you would like to see photo's let me know. Charles Pratten - Australia
 

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