Engine overheat problem solved

[Top Hatt Craig]

One of my fellow coffee shop regulars runs a small fleet of water taxis on the San Francisco Bay. He has been working on a overheating Volvo and has taken all the normal diagnostic steps including diving to inspect the through hull pick up. What he eventually found is a 1” ball valve that FEELS like it’s working properly, but the ball does not move with the handle or shaft. This valve is closed nightly and that definitely contributed to it reaching the end of its service life, but after getting to try it myself I may never know for sure if mine are really OK.

 

[kelpy]

That is why you should remove and throw away all ball valves on the intakes and install proper seacocks. I believe Hatteras always installed seacocks as OEM on all hulls.

 

[Fanfare]

In 1965 many of the smaller seawater intakes (generator, heads) were gate valves. After a few years all had failed. The valve stem turned but the gates had frozen and stripped the threads on the stem. There was no way to tell if the valve was shut or open until you pulled the hose off.

Now I guess I will have to see how many I replaced with ball valves!

 

[Top Hatt Craig]

That is why you should remove and throw away all ball valves on the intakes and install proper seacocks. I believe Hatteras always installed seacocks as OEM on all hulls.

Thank you, I didn’t know there was a difference. So... what is the difference? Regards, Craig

 

[kelpy]

Kinda sorta similar to a ball valve in that it opens and closes with a 90 degree turn of the handle. The valve is manufactured from bronze but instead of a ball, there is a machined tapered cone with said cone removable for maintenance during a yard period. There is often a grease fitting on the side of the valve body to lube the cone during use. Properly maintained, they will last longer than you or your boat.