Engine Gage help needed

[bobk]

We have a 2004 204FX Angler center console with a F150 Yamaha for reef fishing while in the Keys. The dash has Angler gages. One of these is a cluster gage that houses the fuel, battery voltage and engine temperature.

When we bought this boat a couple of weeks, the volt meter was working, now it simply pegs at 18V when the key is turned on. It stays there when the motor is running as well. The battery is a normal 12.5 volts, and voltage measured across the back of the gage is 6.3 volts. Any ideas???

Also the engine temperature gage is not registering anything. Ideas?? All the grounds and wires under the console seem OK. I read 12.5 volts in all the appropriate places.

I know this is not a Hatt issue, but I'm hoping to avoid a $110/hour service call.

Bob

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Bob... you need to check the volts at the battery when off and when running, it should be about 12 and 13.4 respectively. If thats good, I would look at the modular plug from the boat to the motor for corrosion or "tracking". Clean it real well and throw some dielectric grease on the pins.
That should fix the volts and temp problem. If not, you may have a grounded (shot) diode in the alternator. ;-(( That would be the worst case scenario. You need to stab (check) ALL the connections for proper volts. ALL the ignition switch posts, ground bars--- everything. Youll find a dirty connection for sure!! ws

 

[Beckytek]

It does sound like you have a bad connection somewhere. I would disconnect all the wires from the meter and label them. Then take a small battery 3, 6 , 9 etc and connect it to the voltage terminals of the meter (observing polarity) to see if it reads the voltage of the battery correctly. That will tell you if the meter is good. If that is good connect the wires back up and use a volt meter with the ignition switch on and measure the voltage from a known good ground (-) to each side of the meter. One side should read "0" and the other "12.5" volts. If either side is not that then that is the side that has the bad connection. You say you read 6.3 volts across the meter. It should read 12.5 so that is not correct.
Use your wiring diagram to follow the wire to the temperature sensor and you can check at different connection points along the way to the motor and back. I suspect if you find one bad connection it will fix both problems. Ron

 

[Trojan]

The guys are right . Look for a bad ground. With that kind of readings it has to be a ground and most likely at the motor or battery end. Temp, volts and pressure gauges are all positive to ground. which would indicate that the motor block is up from ground. Check the main harness to the motor. It doesnt hurt to clean them all. Good luck. Problems like this can be tricky.

BILL

 

[bobk]

Thanks for the advice guys. I'm into it right now, so we will see what shows up. Interesting these gages have a positive ground. Some resistance might explain that 6.3 volt reading.

Bob
48 series I MY
204 Angler
195 Sea Ray.

I got to reduce the size of this fleet! By the way for what it's worth, I had very good results selling the 19 Proline last week using Craigs list.

 

[bobk]

Well, I have everything cleaned up and I confused some of the connections behind the gage when I wrote before. The input to the voltmeter is 12 volts but the gage pegs at 18+.

The 6.5 volts (now 7 volts as it is warmer out) is between the ground and the post to the temperature gage. In each case I'm measuring from the center ground post on the back of the gage OR the common ground buss. Same readings.

Does this sound like just a gage, or am I likely to need a new temperature sender too? Any chance of opening the gage to fix a bad wire?

Bob

 

[Trojan]

The gauges are not really positive ground. There series gauges. The sender is a temperature sensitive resistor and varies the voltage through the gauge causing the needle to fluctuate. The volt meter may be bad. It's direct reading, but requires a ground. Usually the ground is internal. But the case must be grounded. The temp could be good. It still sounds like a bad connection. Low voltage at the temp gauge is indication of low voltage from the feed. It still sounds like bad connections. I'm not sure your giving us good enough info to fine tune anything from afar.

BILL

 

[bobk]

Once again, many thanks for the advice guys. After poking and cleaning connections for hours, I've come to believe the issue is in the gauge. And I found the manufacturers identification info and it's made by Faria. They have a lifetime warranty and will refurbish it for $40 including return shipping. I'm going to fish the boat for a few more weeks until we leave the Keys and then send the gauge to Faria for repair. The engine has an overheat switch, so we have some protection.

Bob

 

[Boatsb]

Once again, many thanks for the advice guys. After poking and cleaning connections for hours, I've come to believe the issue is in the gauge. And I found the manufacturers identification info and it's made by Faria. They have a lifetime warranty and will refurbish it for $40 including return shipping. I'm going to fish the boat for a few more weeks until we leave the Keys and then send the gauge to Faria for repair. The engine has an overheat switch, so we have some protection.

Bob

Not a bad deal considering I sell the new temp gauges for about $30.

Which one is it? I may have one and $10 is 10$.

 

[bobk]

Not a bad deal considering I sell the new temp gauges for about $30.

Which one is it? I may have one and $10 is 10$.

This is Faria part number 4060-4-73A. About 4" diameter with bright brass or gold trim ring. The gauge has fuel, engine temperature and voltage all in a single gauge. Do you have one?
Bob

 

[Boatsb]

No. I have a volt and a temp in the 2.5" but they are singles. I have never played with their multi ones.

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