Dripping shaft, how hard of a job

[nmcafee]

One of my shafts is dripping, when the boat is sitting there it is 1 drip per 5 seconds, while I am going it is about 1 gallon per hour. I have searched the forum and done some youtubing. Is this the type of shaft that I could change the packing myself while it is in the water? I am pretty freaked out about loosing a seal while the boat is in the water but havent found anyone local to Myrtle Beach to change it for me.

 

[SEVEN]

It’s actually very easy to do, but if this is your first time, I’d highly recommend hiring a local boat mechanic to come and change it. Keep a close eye on what he’s doing and then you can do it in the future. Question, have you tried to tighten the nuts to see if you can get the dripping to stop?

 

[Pascal]

You can do it in the water, assuming everything is in good shape. Just make sure you have the replacement material (GFO is best) and that your bilge pumps work. You ll get some water in but not that bad. Also, get a flexible corkscrew tool to pull the old stuff.

 

[krush]

If you do it in the water, and are new to the game, I suggest leaving a row or two of packing in and not pulling it all out. Just put the new rows on top the old one(or two).

You'll have much less stress, and less water flowing.

 

[dottieshusband]

It's actually quite easy. Your owners manual covers it. I bought a mandrel the same diameter as my prop shaft and use it to precut the rings. I use Duramax Ultra. Buy a cheap pic set from Harbor Freight. Don't be alarmed when the water comes in, 90% of it will stop when the first ring goes in. Be sure and get all the old packing out.. usually 3 or 4 rings.

 

[Captain Ralph]

There is the correct way, then a cheaper red-neck way.
Only on my boat do I do this; I just ad more loops of flax.
Lessen the chance of scratching the shaft with a removal tool.
The old flax will get crushed out like poop.

Use WD contact cleaner to clean the threaded rod threads. When tightening down, allow a few drips then go for a ride, tighten down a lil at a time. Clamping down at first leads to more wear and damage on the shaft surface and flax.

I started with the teflon based falx. Back then that was the high tech product. Later GFO does seem to handle any heat better and less water to lube the flax is required.
BUT, still some water must come in.
IMO, with GFO; one drop per 10 minutes in the minimum.

After we operate and I go below to check on everything, when I notice a wet spot under the log and not a wet pattern going to the bilge, I know it's perfect.

 

[ageless]

I struggled using a cork screw and a pick to remove the old packing so I utilized a 4" screw that would grab hold after screwing into the old packing, worked like a champ. I used Duramax also

 

[rsmith]

One of my shafts is dripping, when the boat is sitting there it is 1 drip per 5 seconds, while I am going it is about 1 gallon per hour. I have searched the forum and done some youtubing. Is this the type of shaft that I could change the packing myself while it is in the water? I am pretty freaked out about loosing a seal while the boat is in the water but havent found anyone local to Myrtle Beach to change it for me.View attachment 76364

You won’t lost anything just tighten the nuts until it stops leaking then back off a quarter turn.

 

[Eddieclemons]

Get it ALL out, be prepared with good gloves because it can be a chore. Go back with Dura Max and let it really settle in before you start making adjustments. Good Luck.

 

[Captain Ralph]

One of my shafts is dripping, View attachment 76364

In looking at your picture, there looks like plenty of adjustment left.
You also want to level out that gland packing. Looks like it has been tightened on one side but not the other.
Even and level adjustments do help.

 

[drburke]

In looking at your picture, there looks like plenty of adjustment left.
You also want to level out that gland packing. Looks like it has been tightened on one side but not the other.
Even and level adjustments do help.

Good catch! In my case (which I am not saying this is) a PO had stripped the bronze threads and the nut didn't get purchase.

I went to McMaster and bought some SS "coupling nuts" which temporarily covered more threads. Saved me a haul out and replacement. FYI

 

[Captain Ralph]

Good catch! In my case (which I am not saying this is) a PO had stripped the bronze threads and the nut didn't get purchase.

I went to McMaster and bought some SS "coupling nuts" which covered more threads. Saved me a haul out and replacement. FYI

Go back and get bronze nuts.
Try to avoid dis-similar materials down here.
It may take some extra work, that threaded rod should be replaceable in bronze also.

 

[CGHOST4]

Captain Ralph is correct. Replace all the threaded rods and nuts with Bronze. Also double nut each threaded rod to lock the set position in place. I replaced all of mine while in the water with very little leakage.


Caesars Ghost
1980 58YF #472

 

[madhatter1]

I just found out my GFO packing was never set correctly. Just put in and they sent me on my way. This is back in 2020. I have tighened it a few times over the years and now its shot from the grounding on the way to the Bahamas so it needs to be replaced.

I have a former Navy diver that can do litterally anything under water. He just put my new props on today and inspected my stuffing boxes. Says the proper way is it tighten them down just to the point of resistance (seated). Then slowly tighten them while idling to the point they stop dripping. Also says if they get overtightened they are forced out of shape and will not seal right anymore.

As for the nuts and threaded rod corrosion block and elbow grease with get all working smoothly again and be protected. I will change the nuts though as they are a bit rounded from use over the years.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

TIGHTEN, TIGHTEN, TIGHTEN !! Suit up and get some ratchet straps on there and pull that gland up good and tight. You dont ever want any water coming in there. The boat will sink.

 

[jim rosenthal]

FWIW, the little corkscrew tool they sell for this lasts about thirty seconds when you are trying to get the old packing out. Old dental picks, or real picks from HF, work much better. Although you DO have to watch not to scratch the shaft.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Ive probably replaced a good mile of packing on valves and rotating equipment in the power plant over 30 years. Get an ALPAX puller on a flexable cable. AVOID the aluminum handled ones. If they break tou be going to the ER to see Jim. https://allpaxcorp.com/collections/...vLTzCgjY-AmdAEQWK6uImxeLQlgASGu4ViduI0TpD21Js