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Dripless Shaft seals

  • Thread starter Thread starter Yachtsmyth
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Yachtsmyth

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Jun 7, 2017
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
67' COCKPIT MY (1987 - 1995)
Looking for suggestions. We are at the yard and was going to have the Tides Dripless Shafts seals installed. Pulled shafts got everything ready and the yard now says there is not enough distance between the tubes and the couplers. this is a 1979 58 ychtfisherman with 871's. Has anyone installed them before on a similar boat? Any suggestions appreciated, d a search and found several topics on this but not similar boats.....
 
There definitely needs to be some space between the coupling and the shaft seal, the less space, the more pita it would be. I have somewhere between 12-18" and it's about perfect. How much space do you have?
 
I am headed to measure now. they said they need two inches in order to tighten the nut. these two inches have cost several thousands of dollars... let the joke begin! lol never would have pulled the shafts (exp), sent shafts out (exp), replace all the bearings while out (exp), only to find out it does not fit.
 
I am headed to measure now. they said they need two inches in order to tighten the nut. these two inches have cost several thousands of dollars... let the joke begin! lol never would have pulled the shafts (exp), sent shafts out (exp), replace all the bearings while out (exp), only to find out it does not fit.

To tighten what nut? I have pss shaft seals and there is no nut, just a couple of allen set screws.
 
Please take a photo for us.
Something just doesn't seem right with this.
And yes, there are no nuts with Tides seals.
 
Last edited:
will take pictures
 
will take pictures

The only nut involved I can think of is the nut on the end of the prop shaft that connects to the coupler, usually this is a keyed connection with a castle nut.

The nut is VERY large on my boat, and I could def see needing a couple inches clearance to tighten it. I remember having to put the socket on the nut, then use a low profile breaker bar to get onto the socket. I may have even had to grind down the socket some.

Maybe they just don't have a low enough profile socket/breaker bar combination?

For projects like this modifying tools is often necessary, which the yard may not be willing to do. You may have to purchase your own socket to cut/grind down or your own breaker bar that is slim enough to clear.
 
I had a 53 1984 MY that had tides drip less seals . It was a little tight but worked out fine. Best thing I ever did. I don’t remember s nut?
 
By 1979 53 motor yacht has dripless packings. They work famously and there is room.
 
Perhaps the "Nut" is on the other end of the breaker bar.....lol

Walt
 
Check to see if it is possible to cut a couple of inches off the stern tube and still have enough of the tube to connect the seals to, might solve the problem. I am not on my boat so I can’t look to see if that would work
 
Something isn’t right. There should be plenty of room for Tides Seal
 
If this does work out make sure the shaft area the seals will ride on is polished. Grinding them clean is not sufficient.
 
If anyone has a picture of theirs on a similar boat would be great. Have 4 inches of shaft tube and they say cutting will not help. I think modifying a socket could.
 
Just a thought, is it possible that there's not enough room because the propeller is on the shaft so the shaft will not slide aft enough??
 
If anyone has a picture of theirs on a similar boat would be great. Have 4 inches of shaft tube and they say cutting will not help. I think modifying a socket could.

I’ll send you some this weekend
 
If anyone has a picture of theirs on a similar boat would be great. Have 4 inches of shaft tube and they say cutting will not help. I think modifying a socket could.
Hope this helps you.

IMG_0148.webpIMG_0149.webp
 

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Just my two cents. I installed PSS dripless back in 2004. Every seven years or so it is recommended to renew the seals etc. I was lucky and got almost twice out of them and never had an issue. But when you see what is possible to happen when a failure occurs, it is scary how little there is to these things to keep water from entering the boat. Also, I didn’t have the style that you can renew without separating the shaft etc. so what I replaced them with is a traditional packing but had them drilled and had a water spud installed. What you end up with is the dependability of a traditional gland and the cooling of a dripless and therefore can run tighter and have no drip. Third year running and no issues.
 
I guess I should proofread these things before they go out. Robert can no longer send photos of his engine room. They are just too damn clean. Robert you inspire me.
 

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