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Dormant 58 LRC

BFDfirefighter16

Active member
Joined
Mar 11, 2016
Messages
90
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
58' LRC (1975 - 1981)
Hello everyone,I am in the process of buying a 58 LRC that has been at dock for at least a few years if not more. Once the deal is done I plan on having the fuel tanks cleaned and polished. The boat already has many spare filters onboard. What else aside from normal maintenance should I do before bringing her down the East coast to Myrtle Beach, SC? I plan on oil changes, fuel system maintenance, bottom cleaning, and zincs. What could I possibly expect to crap out after the boat sitting unused for so long. I do know the engines run and have been rebuilt not long before she stopped being used and the owner winterized them in November so that was the last time they were run. They are 4-71’s. I will be having a full survey done and a lengthy sea trial so hopefully some of the issues will reveal themselves during the trial and not the voyage home. Thanks for all your wisdom and advise in advance.Thanks again,Alex
 
You mean the engines were run Nov 2019 right? If so, and as long as they were winterized correctly they should be fine. If however it’s been a few years since they’ve been run you would need to run them up a few times and look for coolant leaks etc... oil analysis is a good indicator of differing issues particularly if they haven’t been run in a while.
 
Hoses hoses hoses. Replace every hose and clamp that looks sketchy. Replace all raw water impellers and clean the heat exchangers and strainers. Overheating is the one engine killer you don’t want to have. Even if they claim it was done do it anyway so you know what your starting with. Don’t do the halfassed flush.
 
Two boat owner now?
 
I might end up a two boat owner for a little while until my 44TC sells.
 
The engines were run in November 2019 and winterized with antifreeze. I have visited the boat twice this year when I was in the area and know that I will have to replace at least one battery that’s for the inverter.
 
Seems to me that you have more to worry about with the fuel tanks than the engines, if they were run and winterized last November. Besides have the fuel polished and carrying a LOT of filters (two cases) I don't know what else. Make sure you have high-option towing fully paid up and don't go too far offshore. Come to think of it, come down the ditch for the first few days and sort out problems before you go offshore.

And we have another forum member with a 58 LRC who make the trip from FL to Boston last year. Call him up and send him a plane ticket so he can come along with you. :)
 
I’ve delivered quite a few boats between Florida and Texas and a common denominator with them all is they have been sitting for months and maintenance has been put off while the boat has been on the market. When you do the bottom job you should repack the shaft logs and check all of the seacocks. Most places don’t pull the heat exchangers anymore. They tap into the raw water system and circulate a mild acid through the system. The generators will probably give the most trouble to keep running. Look over everything on the engines even if they tell you it’s just been done. A 4-71 is pretty hard to kill.as previously stated don’t head offshore until you’ve put at least 2-3 days of run time. You may want to drop the rudders while you’re hauled out and repack the rudder boxes. Make sure your radio works and possible have a handheld as a backup. Send me a plane ticket.
 
Oh, This is the one in Texas?
Cool, I could use a plane ticket also.
 
Lots of good advice already given. Especially on the generators, nothing makes a trip worse than loosing generator, also, nothing more frustrating to work on than a genset while underway in a hot ass engine room.

I would def do some fuel polishing, change all fluids (so I had a known baseline starting point). Make sure all scoops and thru-hulls are free of barnacles, mussels...etc. I would acid flush the cooling system. I'd be very tempted to pull all thermostats for cleaning and pot testing. Double check all hoses and clamps, especially in the exhaust and raw water systems.

double/triple check all bilge pumps and float switches. If the boat has the arm style float switches I'd go ahead and replace them all with the ultra safety float switches.

I would change all raw water impellers, and carry spares.

If she's been used as a dock queen the freshwater and AC sides/systems should be in decent shape. If she's just sat completely dormant you will want to give those systems a good once over as well.

Best of luck with the new boat!!
 
We offer Fuel Polishing! Kraken Marine Service, you can find us on Facebook!
 
I’d love to see pics of her. Also I didn’t know they put 4v71’s in such a big boat. My 53MY has the 8V71 Turbos...which is a lot more engine in a lot smaller boat.
 
When the boat is in my possession I will post some pictures of her on here. The reason for the small Detroit 4-71’s is because the hull is a full displacement hull. Having bigger engines other than the 6-71’s would be wasted space and useless because you can only push a full displacement hull so fast. These boat top out around 11kts but if you run the boat at slower speeds it will yield you more nautical mile range. At 6.5kts this boat is capable of a range of 5700 miles. Your 53MY like my 44TC have semi planing hulls which with more power applied will allow the boat to get up on plane. I’m not in a hurry when we go somewhere so I’m happy with a nice and easy 7-8kt cruise while sipping fuel.
 
Good point because even though Maggie Mae can run up on plane and run 20+ knots...I run her at 8-10 knots everywhere we go. Only time I push her is if I’ve been running all day, for a day or two at Hull speeds...I’ll run her up to WOT a couple of minutes to spin up the turbos and to blow it out.
 
No mention of "belts". I would pull them all, inspect or replace. Set the tensions with a tool to ensure correct settings.

I would take it out and run at full cruise speed and ensure one or both engines are not overheating, from an unusual source, such as a kinked hose.

Check volume of Hyd steering fluid in reservoir(s?), and verify the pressure value in the system.

Doubt if an issue, but search for corroded wiring and/or wire nuts; you never know.

Lines- any chafing?

I have had an up-close look at an LRC only once, but talk about over-built! All parts and fittings looked 2x or 3x a normal value! And we know Hatts are stout, as is.
 

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