DOL-FIN/NAIAD parts obsolete

[randy]

Dol-fin stabilizers are the precurser to Naiad which I beleive changed hands in 1976 the year of my boat. The hull adapters I have just found out are epoxy coated aluminium. One of mine is now no longer coated on the area the actuator bolts to and is in need of replacement.The problem I have is the part is no longer available. Does anyone know of a bone yard that may have used parts available.

Randy

 

[J's Dream]

Randy

You may want to try Sailorman in Ft. Lauderdale. I have found parts there I never thought another one existed. Hey, it's worth a try!

Jason

 

[mike]

Randy,
I had the same problem on our 1972 53MY, the Naiad rep on the west coast (from Washington, we are in NorCal) had the shaft housing drilled and taped for the new updated seal adapter and SS external seal ring plate. We then ground out the lip inside the hole of Al hull adapter to allow the new bottom seal housing adapter to fit flush with the bottom. The orig Al hull adapter held the fin shaft seal, and is a faliure just waiting to happen. We changed out both sides, the fix workes very well, .... I no longer have concerns about corrossion. mike

 

[randy]

Mike, do you recall who the dealer was in Wash. and how long ago was it?
The model I have is 251, is this the same as yours?

Randy

 

[mike]

The dealer is Ray Wright of Wright's Marine, the work was done this time last year. I believe we have the same units, I'll check this weekend, I have the complete orig manual. I worked closley with Ray on my project, he is a knowledgeable, no BS, hard working guy with about 20 years with Naiad. Mike

Wright's Marine 30624 5th Place S Federal Way, WA 98003
Phone (253) 529-0854 Cellular (206) 953-6388 FAX (253) 529-0905
E-Mail Service@WrightsMarine.com

 

[randy]

Thanks Mike.

I talked with Ray and he is going to send me some info. The problem I have is inside the the boat where the adapter flange meets the actuator flange the epoxy is all broken off. Not to sure what can be done to stop the aluminium from turning to powder under the rest of the epoxy.

Randy

 

[mike]

Randy,

Is your problem with the top flange in the Engine room or the bottom flange at the hull interface? The easiest fix would be to rough up the surface and use some epoxy like marine-tex to fill in the voids in the Al, and then seal it all up with 4200 or 5200. The bottom flange seal and outer seal ring should prevent any moisture from entering the hull.

 

[randy]

Mike,
Yes my problem is inside the engine room, it is the area where the adapter meets the actuator and I can see the epoxy checking just a little bit down inside the housing. My concern is how do you stop the corrosion from migrating. Is there something that the aluminum can be washed with to clean it up prior to recoating it with some kind of epoxy.

Was the problem with yours with the exterior seal area inside or outside?

Regards.
Randy Mott

 

[mike]

Randy,
My problem was at the exterior interface with the hull, the shaft lip seal and the SS face plate. It was the worst of all situations. Our fix was to patch the holes with Marine-tex, and the use of lots of 4200 on the bottom at top flanges. With respect to cleaning the Al, we just ground it down to clean Al followed with the Marine-tex. It's working with no problems. The real/intended seal area is between the bottom SS flange, the hull and lip seal adapter. The use of 4200/5200 is the std/preferred set-up performed by the Naiad rep. If you have water leaking into the area from the top, you need to add more 4200, or you may have a leak in the internal wooden or fiberglass adapter area. I would suspect that if water is getting in, it is from the bottom interface, and not the top flange, because it should have minimal exposure to water from the inside areas. The internal hole is of no real concern, assuming you have a good seal at the bottom and top flange area, and that when sealed, the area has no other sources for water ingress.

 

[randy]

Mike,
I did'nt know that I had a problem until I found out the adapter was epoxied alumium. The boat has been out for a year and a half now for a complete face lift and systems upgrade. I pulled the actuators as with just about everthing else on the boat because after 30 years it's about time. The first side I removed I thought the adaptor was made out of steel ,being grey in colour and poor lighting . The second one , peices of epoxy were falling off and I thought they were the result of a poor repair job.My concern is that after time the aluminum may continue to deteriorate, which would cause a stuctural problem and result in a massive leak. If there was a way of locating a used one I would have new ones fabricated because I think the design of the adaptor is a good idea. Whats your thoughts .

Randy

 

[mike]

Randy,
In my view the current Naiad seal retainer is the way to go. It completely eliminates the Al from the equation, because it is not in contact with the seal or the surrounding water. I don't like Al and salt water, esp given the possible galvanic action that can occur. We found my port side system had been upgraded with the newer version actuator, leading to my speculation that a previous owner had to replace it. A costly expense of about $10k. Having said that, yours did last for 30 years, so if you can repair it, you may make it another 30 with no problems. However, if you change the external seals periodically as recommended by Naiad, you may run into the problem again. The real hard part is removing and installing the actuators, given you already have them out, now is the time to bite the bullet and do it.