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Deck Repair/Delamination

  • Thread starter Thread starter Starman
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Starman

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Hatteras Model
Not Currently A Hatteras Owner
Somewhere there was a thread about delamination so I thought I would post some pics to show the process for repair.

We had 4 of these spots on the gunnels of Bosslady. As it turns out, these delaminating spots were over some heavy steel plates that I assume were used to pick up the top half of the boat and place it on the hull.


First I cut the area with a saw, making it easier to dig out the bad glass.

DSCN2712.jpg


next we used a grinder with a 24grit disc to remove all the glass. Notice the beveled edge going outward.

DSCN2713.jpg



Then we layered 1808 glass ( this is a biaxial glass with a matt backing ). I used West system epoxy to lay this up.


DSCN2714.jpg


I should be able to post a couple more pics tomorrow on the next steps.


Hope this helps those who may be considering doing some of this type work.
 
I have one spot 4" X 4" in exactly the same place. I was going to cut the deck waffle off to repair below and the reglass the waffle back on. What are you gonna use to duplicate the pattern? ws
 
Your Public Profile shows "Not a Hatteras Owner" so I'm not positive your photos are for a Hatt.. Anyway, are your sure the plates were steel? On my 1972 Hatt a forward deck plate is aluminum...
 
That is exactly why I come here - to learn from those who know. Thanks for posting that, Paul. I would love to take a trip east and see your the "Bosslady" project up close and personal. Keep up the good work! Howard in west Michigan
 
Some of the plates were steel and some aluminum. I have removed the plates from the cockpit sole and the fwd deck. The plates in the cockpit caused a bulge and the fwd plate caused a delam. All were dry.
 
Was this caused by the steel / aluminum corroding and de laminating - since it was "dry" ??
We used to use a two part product called BELZONA to cold repair pump housings, bearing journals, and packing lands etc. Kinda like epoxy but WAY stronger. Could be machined. The rep told me that RUST CREEP produces about 3000lbs of force. Their product produces about 3500 lbs of adhesion. Rustoleum holds at about 2500. I wonder were poly resin falls in at??
If neither were profiled / cleaned / etched that would explain the separation.
I'm sure the factory didnt take the time to grind clean any mill blush or corrosion. Even cold rolled steel (expensive) is clean but too smooth to adhere to. INPUT/ IDEAS? ws
 
REBrueckner said:
Your Public Profile shows "Not a Hatteras Owner" so I'm not positive your photos are for a Hatt.. Anyway, are your sure the plates were steel? On my 1972 Hatt a forward deck plate is aluminum...


Right, I am not a hatt owner. The only boat I own at this time is a 20' , 1974 Mako center console that I plan ( one day/year ) to completely rebuild, then sell.

I am a boat carpenter extrodiniar ! :D ......lol

I can assure you this is a hatt. See my website. Or talk with Chris ( boss Lady) course' he's not really a "boss lady" ........Just my current boss :D

Aluminum does not rust, and these plates were rusted, but there was no water to speak of.

Sorry to say though, my guy was so fast this am, he sanded down the fiberglass and mudded it up before I could snap a pic. I will be sure to get one on monday.

The "mud" we used was 3M bondo. The glass work was very close to level and no large areas needed to be filled with epoxy.


Bill,

I am going to apply non-skid to the gunnels , foredeck and salon roof. It ill be a light grey.


When It comes time to do the non-skid, I will post step by step pics if you want.

Thanx Captddis for explaining that some plates were aluminum and some were steel.
 
The problem I had with the fwd plate was that Hatt just placed a thinly cut piece of balsa over the steel plate. There may have been a little resin but it did not stick to the steel. Everytime you walked walk on it you felt some give.
The deck was going to be painted and I wanted it repaired first.
 
On Boss lady there was a very disticnt rise in the deck. Then I started tapping with a hammer and it was like hitting that cavity when the dentist goes to work...lol

Glad you repaired it before the paint job becuase it's one of thoise things if not done now it will be one of those " geeeeze I wish I had repaired that first " .
 

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