Deck Core Rotten

[Traveler 45C]

Karl, I now know what you went through when you found all of that rot under your pulpit, for I have experienced a similar horror this past weekend.

I recently discovered the pump-out fitting leaking into the head after a rainstorm. So I went up on the foredeck on Sat for what I thought was gonna’ be a 10 min fix (I know, I know, I won’t do that again… ) and found the coring rotten around the fitting as far as I could reach in there to dig it out, maybe 3-4 inches. It’s probably wet further in and that’s what I’m afraid of.

I know the correct way to fix this is to cut the deck from above (I cannot get to it from underneath) dig out the rotten wood, seal up the good wood with CPES and build the area back up again, place the deck back on, fair and paint.

But, this area supports no load and is not structural. The top layer of fiberglass in about ¼” thick and will not bend when I stand on it. To avoid possible ruining my deck, for I am a novice when it comes to fiberglass repair, is there another correct fix for this? I know there is the Git-Rot approach and I have the option to dry out as much as I can and seal it up as is, leaving rotten wood in there.

I want to do the right thing here and fix it right. Suggestions all?

 

[67hat34c]

make a tool to dig it out, dig until you hit hard stuff, soak with denatured alcohol and let it dry out, you may have to seal it off from the top and let it dry from underneath. is there any way to put a dehumidifier in that area? that may help. if you can dry it out then fill it with epoxy and chopped glass, make a paste with it.

 

[Traveler 45C]

is there any way to put a dehumidifier in that area?

Nope, no room for a dehumidifier. I could seal it up from one side and use a shopvac to suck the moisture out or a blower to aid in evaporation. I don’t know if those two approaches will work.

A friend of mine suggested using acetone to dry it out.

 

[Maynard Rupp]

I like the above suggestions, but let me give you a few also. Make the hook and dig until you get through the peat moss and into wet but unrotten balsa. I now use a halogen light for heat. Let the light dry the area for 2 or 3 days. Mix West epoxy with their 404 high density filler. Mix it to a bread dough consistency. Brush, as best you can plain West epoxy into the area. Pack the whole area full of your 404 mix. Coat the outside of your deck fitting with wax, you can even use a candle to drip wax on the thing or wrap it in wax paper. Jam that into the hole to keep your 404 stuff from running out. Remember to make it THICK. You could make a plug the dia. of the hole and wrap it with wax paper instead of your actual fitting. 24 hours later you are good to go.

 

[Genesis]

Get it dry first.

Then run CPES in there until it will not take any more.

THEN fill it.

That's the only alternative I'd consider to ripping it out and doing it right. Done that way you should have no further issues.....

Be warned though - the damage likely goes a LOT further than you think it does.....

 

[Beckytek]

I had the same problem with the area under my winch. I repaired it using plywood and cpes but I was going to use spray foam if the area wasn't too big. This may be crazy but just a thought. Why not use spray foam to fill the void once it's dried? Especially if the area has no big load on it. All you would need is a long tube to get all the way in the back. Do it slowly and let it spread toward the hole. Once there you could epoxy the hole area in the normal way to seal it.

 

[Genesis]

Oh, here's another ugly thought.

Some of the glass work on the bottom isn't 100% filled. Be very careful with running things into the space between the two plies of FB or you may get a surprise when some of it starts coming out the headliner inside!

 

[Maynard Rupp]

Don't use spray foam as it absorbs water. You can cut blocks of Divinecell foam to replace the balsa, but it is expensive and in this application no better than packing it with epoxy and 404 filler.

 

[rtrafford]

couple of things:

yes, get all of the bad stuff out or you'll be back in there again sooner or later.

acetone followed by a heat gun works quite well and can tremendously speed things up. prolonged exposure can lead to an untimely rainstorm.

a good idea is to coat the good balsa with resin thinned with a little acetone prior to filling. it will help create a sound bond between your filler and the core adding strenth and longevity.

 

[jim rosenthal]

The hard part is getting the bad material out, all of it, and drying the space out. If you have a large area to fill, I would use Coosa panel. It is terrific stuff, bonds in well, absolutely impervious to water, and paints well too. (not that you will need to if you can replace the exterior deck skin with what you took off and glue it back down. Too bad this happened- good luck.

 

[mike]

Dig out the bad area as already mentioned. Drill 3/8 or 1/2" holes spaced 4 to 5" apart around the bad section pour in CPES until the area is saturated. Then mix slurry of epoxy resin and milled fibers and pour it into the cavity area, back filling as required. Your can add a fungicide to the CEPS to stop the rot from migrating further into the unaffected wood. I have seen the CEPS travel more than ten feet along a deck beam displacing the moisture in an rotted sections, so be prepared for bleed through below.

 

[REBrueckner]

The key to a successful (lifelong) repair is to get as much of the rotten stuff out and get the rest dry. Often no need to dig up the deck fiberglass itself;I'm at least as anal as anyone I've met and I would bother unless damage is really extensive. A modest light bulb, say 25 watt, together with a small fan over three or four days usually does a good job...a hair dryer is too much heat and unsafe if left unattended for long periods. It takes time.

In another thread, someone posted that Hatt did not bed fish rod holders and fuel fills in YF in caulk..I also found that. I removed these for painting and found dirt/wet/soft/rotten balsa coring...After about 1 inch got to clean, but wet, coring. I left my cockpit cover on and ran a fan for a week to move air while I was away...Coring was dry and hard when I returned. I also found the same situation around my chain hole for the windlass when I replaced that...same issue, but I could get a light bulb under the hole for heat and that speeded drying.

I repaired via the same means as Rupp outlines here. I also coated the hardened west filler with a Coat of epoxy (and letting it dry) before replacing the fittings with CAULK.

 

[Maynard Rupp]

I have read all these threads and I must plead stupidity. I have always used the West System products, probably because I know Meade Gougeon, one of the owners of the company. I used to race iceboats with him. Now, what is CPES???

 

[mike]

A very low viscosity clear penetrating epoxy sealer. Smith's products are all epoxy base, they do not carry polyester base products because of their inferior properties.

 

[Traveler 45C]

Guys, thanks very much. I will consider all of your suggestions and let you know how I’m gonna’ attack this and the outcome.

I’d be completely in the dark without you guys. I’ve never worked with FG and a project like this is scary to a novice like me. I feel much more confident with all of your help.

Here’s some info on CPES: http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/cpes.html

 

[Genesis]

Fiberglass is easy stuff really. Making it look PRETTY requires work, but making it STRONG does not.

 

[Traveler 45C]

I’d be terrified taking a circular saw to my boat. Just the thought of it…

My biggest fear in all of this is getting the top skin back into place without it looking like a patch. It now looks like I can make this repair without going to that extreme. You don’t know how relived I am!

Got any tips on inspecting above the headliner?

 

[Genesis]

None that are really any good, unless you have an access hatch where you need it (and if this is where I think it is on your boat, you don't)

 

[mike]

FWIW, A final note on CPES talk to Steve Smith directly at http://www.smithandcompany.org/, he will give you the correct info on what and how to use epoxy coatings and sealers. Ask him to send you his application notes and tips on making repairs. He is the inventor and brains behind the products and the best in the business. Mike

 

[J's Dream]

Greg,

What ever happened with this? I am curious to know how you went about repairing it, as I fear I may have a similar problem...I haven't drilled my holes yet to see how far rot goes.

Jason