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Cruiseair unit needed

  • Thread starter Thread starter captbuddy
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captbuddy

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 12, 2005
Messages
681
Hatteras Model
42' LRC - Mark II (1980 - 1985)
The compressor is shot in my master stateroom. AC guy said I just need the unit that goes down in the engine room. He said I did not need the evaporator unit in the closet. He said if that part went back after I put in a new unit in the engine room, all I would do is loose freeon. If I replace just the compressor on the old unit in the engine and the other part goes bad in the engine room, then I will damage the new compressor. Where can I purchase just the unit that goes in the engine room. Thanks,
captbuddy
 
Not sure I understand correctly (maybe some typos in your post?), so let me summarize: I think you are saying that you want a new condensing unit (which is the unit in the ER that has the compressor, controls and cooling coils), and not the evaporator unit which is remotely installed in the stateroom which is comprised of the coils, evap fins and blower, right? And you're asking where you can buy a condensing unit? Answer - anywhere....CruisAir or Aqua Air are just a couple that I know of that come to mind. What size unit and what brand of condensing unit are you wanting to replace? Your AC tech should be able to supply you with any kind of condensing unit you need.
 
If you only need the compressor, many available at about 300-400 dollars, a condensing coil, a chunk more for sure..check with you tech. guy and verify exactly what he wants you to get done..if you are unsure of his answers, second opinion a must...
 
Angela,
you are correct. Just need the unit that goes into the ER. Tech advised me not to just replace the compressor only. He said get the whole unit that goes into the ER. Not sure what size it is for the master. Need to look.
Thanks,
captbuddy
 
i'm looking for the same thing, mine has a freon leak in the condensing (water)coils. mine is a 10,000 btu unit that uses r22, i would like to stick with r22 if possible since all of my other units use this freon.
 
George,
I sent you an email.
captbuddy
 
It may be cheaper to change to a standalone unit in the master stateroom. The new cruisaire units are quieter than the old evaporators and generally fit in a smaller footprint, compressor and all. if it is as old as the unit, may end up with a freon leak also. They use less amperage, open up space in the ER etc etc.
 
shawn, i was thinking about doing that... i still have not made up my mind. it would be as simple as building a shelf and running one water hose to the back, there is a seachest right on side of where the unit goes so i would not have to run a return line to the existing overboard discharge.
 
FWIW I just got a quote for a new Cruisair 10K BTU condensing unit, $2500 and another $950 for the TurboVap air handler.
 
Guys & Gals,
My AC guy in Panama City is recommending I just replace the compressor. Everything else on the condenser looks great. About $1000. Plan on taking his advise.
Thanks,
captbuddy
 
jack, i got a quote of 1857.00 plus shipping from a local dealer in new orleans for the condenser/compressor unit. what do you think about going with a self contained unit. it in in my master s r in a 58 yf. i put an 18000 btu in the aft salon cabinet about 6 years ago, and i am happy with it. i hear that the newer ones are much quieter than the older self contained units
 
Last edited:
My unit went out about 6 weeks ago, it was the original in our 79 48 LRC, 24K btu. I replaced it with a stand alone from Ocean Breeze. To replace my unit with a cruise air was $3,800, with a stand alone dometic 16K btu 2800, with a 18.5 btu with electric heat, $1,900. As mentioned before, freed up valuable engine room real estate!

I did the install myself, about 10-12 hours all told, running water lines, electrical, preparing the footprint, etc.

Stuart
Bed boat & beyond
 
Really? Replacing a 24K unit with a 16K? That does not seem wise.
 
I replaced the 24K with an 18.5K btu unit. The 24K was a split system , two 12K units. The 18.5 has 950 cfm the same as the two 12 units blowing. Cools the salon just fine. Also, the 24 used 10 amps, the 18.5 uses 5.5 amps...big savings on elec at the marina.
 
shawn, i was thinking about doing that... i still have not made up my mind. it would be as simple as building a shelf and running one water hose to the back, there is a seachest right on side of where the unit goes so i would not have to run a return line to the existing overboard discharge.

Hey Bill that's just what I did. I used a through hull that was abandoned when I went with FW Raritan heads and then Tee'd into the seachest. I also installed a Tee in the air duct and use the same unit to cool my VIP cabin which seems to be working great... we'll see with the 100 degree heat today :)

I'm also installing one of the Breath Easy units.

http://www.dometic.com/enus/America...y-Air-Purifiers/products/?productdataid=94755

The one issue I have had is the pushing all that water through the seachest. I have started to collect salt water in the aft shower sump, not a lot but enough to cycle that bilge pump a few times a day.

It seems to be back filling from one of the other inputs into the seachest.
 
Just a question, does anyone else worry about running salt water cooling lines throughout the boat on the self contained systems? Or am I missing something here?
 
Just a question, does anyone else worry about running salt water cooling lines throughout the boat on the self contained systems? Or am I missing something here?

I'm not bothered by it; however, my saltwater cooling lines don't really run all over the boat, but I do have five "systems" pumping currently. Each pump's and AC's through-hull is relatively close to the AC unit, as are the discharge lines. So, I've got cooling lines all over the boat, but not "run" all over the boat. In South Florida, having reliable AC is more important to me than how many feet of saltwater cooling hose I have, but that's just me. Others may feel differently. Just be sure to properly secure and protect the hoses, and cushion them where they pass through walls of floors, so you don't have potential points of abrasion everywhere.
 
follow-up...i replaced the original split 10,000 btu unit with a dometic 10,000 self contained unit. total cost without labor(i did it myself) 1750.00 this included the unit, plywood for the shelf, paint and screws.
results, i turned it on and it was 76 in the stateroom, it ran 21 minutes and shut off at 68 degrees. as quiet or quieter than the original. with the fan on high it moves air around like there is a ceiling fan in the room. no regrets here
 

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