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Cruise speed

  • Thread starter Thread starter Trojan
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Trojan

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Apr 17, 2005
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
43' DOUBLE CABIN (1970 - 1984)
I was told earlier that My 43 should WOT at 2150,cruise at 2000rpm. I just received the data sheet on My boat from Hatteras today. WOT 2500rpm, no load 2650rpm, cruise at 2200-2300. At WOT I show 20.5 mph.. At 2300rpm I show 17.5mph., 2200rpm I show 15.5. This are the speeds I get with 400 gal of fuel and the boat loaded. The boat came with 24X26 props. I am running two beat up props of 24X25 pitch. Which need to be changed. The question is? Do I leave well enough alone or do I change to 24X26? I don't know what I will gain if I change. What I have now with the warn props looks pretty good to me. Any thought on this. Bill
 
The max no load RPM is a function of the engine's governor and has nothing to do with gear ratio or props. It is a maximum RPM that the manufacturer allows the engine to achieve when not in gear. The max RPM in gear is what is adjusted by changing prop pitch and/or diameter. The general rule is changing pitch or diameter 1" will change the max RPM 100 RPM. So run the boat at full throttle in smooth water and note the RPM. It sounds like yours is way high. The prop shop can add up to about 2" of pitch on your same props which should reduce your max RPM by 200. Beyond that you will need to change the props. A good prop shop can be more precise, but the rule I have given you works pretty good...Good Luck.
 
Trojan said:
I was told earlier that My 43 should WOT at 2150,cruise at 2000rpm. I just received the data sheet on My boat from Hatteras today. WOT 2500rpm, no load 2650rpm, cruise at 2200-2300. At WOT I show 20.5 mph.. At 2300rpm I show 17.5mph., 2200rpm I show 15.5. This are the speeds I get with 400 gal of fuel and the boat loaded. The boat came with 24X26 props. I am running two beat up props of 24X25 pitch. Which need to be changed. The question is? Do I leave well enough alone or do I change to 24X26? I don't know what I will gain if I change. What I have now with the warn props looks pretty good to me. Any thought on this. Bill

First things first.

Get the engines warmed up, and get ahold of a phototach - the bridge tachs, unless they are digital (and sometimes even then!), are worthless.

Your engines are probably 6-71s, right? I suspect so from the numbers you're posting.

Once you have them at operating temperature and that phototach, take the boat out of gear, go below, and BY HAND (disconnect the throttle linkage so you can move the lever yourself) go all the way to the stop. Measure the RPM. It should read between 2650 and 2700, if the no-load is 2650 (+50/-0).

Let's say it DOES NOT. You need to have someone come and fix that - first. Go no further until you do. I won't try to go through the procedure here, because it basically requires a full tune-up, which if botched can cause real bad things (like a runaway!)

Let's say it DOES. Ok. Now shut down and reconnect the linkage.

Make ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that the lever goes ALL THE WAY TO THE STOP when you select WOT from the bridge. With the engine stopped, select full power and go down and make CERTAIN. If it does not, fix the linkage (this is adjustable at either the bridge controls, the linkage at the engine, or both.) Make sure of course that you can get idle too!

Ok, so now you know that when you say "WOT" at the bridge, you have WOT.

Now, dive the boat. Insure the bottom AND PROPS are clean. The props must be COMPLETELY clean - if they are not, get a scraper and some dive gear and clean them, or have someone do it for you.

Now, with the bottom and props clean, go for a speed trial.

If WOT is supposed to be 2500, you want to turn up fully loaded 2550. This means with a clean bottom, clean props, and FULL fuel, water and provisions to the maximum extent you usually have when running. Why 2550? Because your props will not always be spotlessly clean, your bottom will not always be perfectly clean, and you will some day have an extra 500lbs of stuff (people, provisions, etc) on board. This will insure you do not overload the engines even under those conditions.

If you cannot do so, then you need to first have the engine tune verified, and if it checks out, then the wheels MUST be adjusted.

Take the wheels off and take them to a prop scanning place ("Accuprop" or similar.) Tell them what you have now for WOT, what you want for WOT (2550), and ask them to fix it. They will get very close if not dead nuts on - they will generally take 1" out for each 100 RPM you want to increase by, although you can also play with the cup to get some of these results. They will also true the wheels which helps both efficiency and vibration.

In general you should run Detroits at no more than 87% of rated WOT RPM for cruise ASSUMING you make AT LEAST rated speed, and preferrably, 50 RPM over. That would be a maximum cruise RPM of 2175, assuming you can reach at least 2500. Operation over 2175 should be reserved for emergency situations.

If you exceed these numbers (e.g. the "2300 rpm" recommendation) or do not correct the overloading you are operating under right now you will be overhauling the engines much sooner than you'd like.
 
Genesis,
My Hatt has 671N 310-hp Max no load is 2650, 2500 Max RPM loaded with a cruise of 2300 This is the info J&T provided me. I have always heard cruise for this engine is 200 of the top . I run my boat 2250 most of the time and get 2450 loaded RPM . Does this sound right
Thanks Jim
 
You need to reach 2500.

The naturals are more forgiving of overloads than the turbo engines, but the same rules apply - and "200 off the top" violates DD's recommendations. Their max continuous cruise recommendation is 87% of WOT RPM for turbo engines, 90% of WOT for naturals - and that's a MAXIMUM continuous, not a minimum or recommended.

The "200 off the top" recommendation usually comes from mechanics who would love to see you do that..... :)

The modern engine manufacturers DO tend to spec it this way, BUT they again word it as "must at at no more than....." That doesn't mean they think its all that great of an idea to run there, but that this is the absolute maximum at which you may.
 
"Now, dive the boat"

herr Kapitan? did you mean... drive the boat? :-)
 
No he meant look underneath and verify that everything is clean and in good order under there. You could also haul the boat, but it costs more and is far less convenient. Of course, you can see and do more with a haulout, including change the props and install them the right way. For what he's trying to do, I would get a diver to clean the bottom etc unless he knows for a fact that something's not right under there and needs a haulout to fix it.
 
Yep - I meant dive, not drive. Make sure everything is clean down there before attempting to verify WOT RPM, so you know what 'ya got.
 
Just be sure you dog the hatches and lower the periscope first.
 
Hehehehehe....
 
I always left the scope up when we submerged the boat. If something went wrong and you had to come back up it was nice to be able to recheck the area. Usually lowered at 80'. My first boat they waited until the upper hatch was checked shut. Whatever keeps you happy. Luck. Dale
 
Thanks for the help guys. I'm going to reprop with the factory props of 24X26 and bring the WOT underload down to where it belongs. Bill
 

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