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CRUISAIR Thermostat Upgrade ?

  • Thread starter Thread starter IOLANI
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IOLANI

IOLANI

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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
54' MOTOR YACHT (1985 - 1988)
So my original question was going to be "what is required to switch over from an old Honeywell style thermostat to a SMX or SMXII controller. While determining the model of my existing Honeywell I found it matches up to a Heavy Duty Line Voltage unit. Interesting. Is that what these systems use ? Check out the price of those things !

The thermostat I have more or less works fine but we use it more like an on/off switch since the fan runs constantly even once the set temp has been achieved.

Back to the original question..will the SMX controller work with the existing 3 or 4 control wires or does a new harness have to be run ?

IMG_0029.webp

IMG_0216.webp



IMG_0032.webp
 
IOLANI said:
So my original question was going to be "what is required to switch over from an old Honeywell style thermostat to a SMX or SMXII controller. While determining the model of my existing Honeywell I found it matches up to a Heavy Duty Line Voltage unit. Interesting. Is that what these systems use ? Check out the price of those things !

The thermostat I have more or less works fine but we use it more like an on/off switch since the fan runs constantly even once the set temp has been achieved.

Back to the original question..will the SMX controller work with the existing 3 or 4 control wires or does a new harness have to be run ?

View attachment 73678

View attachment 73679



View attachment 73677
Click to expand...

Is the $238 for the original Honeywell or the SMX board shown? I am looking for an original Honeywell line voltage stat. If this is a good link you just found what I couldn't find in hours of searching. I believe the SMX boards are not line voltage and you have a computer involved.
 
We need to get a picture inside of your condensing station box. If you have a controller logic board, from these pictures a controller model can be determined and your questions answered correctly.
Certain panels require certain controller boards to work at all.

You may not have a board at all and your Honeywell working in place of an ole 3 knob switch panel.
An whole other od installation.

Help us help you.
 
Last edited:
If the original stat works fine why change it? When fixing something that is not broken remember that no good deed goes unpunished. Have learned that the hard way.
 
madhatter1 said:
If the original stat works fine why change it? When fixing something that is not broken remember that no good deed goes unpunished. Have learned that the hard way.
Click to expand...
Like; Never kick a sleeping dawg?

I have been thinking about one of Briankinley2004's comment,, "the fan runs constantly even once the set temp has been achieved".

For a saloon with lots of windows, this may be a good idea.
But, why can this not work as the Honeywell control picture shows "auto" on the bottom??

To help on this, IMO, still need to know what controller, (if one in use) is in the box.
Could be just a few lil (Bosch type) relays in there.
But like madhatter1 started, You really want to kick this dawg??If you have the need to kick something, Help me on our boat. I still have some projects that need to be kicked around.

 
Briankinley2004 said:
Is the $238 for the original Honeywell or the SMX board shown? I am looking for an original Honeywell line voltage stat. If this is a good link you just found what I couldn't find in hours of searching. I believe the SMX boards are not line voltage and you have a computer involved.
Click to expand...

This looks to be an active link on Amazon but the price says $340. I can't find the same link I found last night for $238. Maybe now that you have the actual part number you can look for better pricing.

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-T6051A1016-Voltage-Thermostat-Heating/dp/B00097BE0E
 
madhatter1 said:
If the original stat works fine why change it? When fixing something that is not broken remember that no good deed goes unpunished. Have learned that the hard way.
Click to expand...

Captain Ralph said:
Like; Never kick a sleeping dawg?

I have been thinking about one of Briankinley2004's comment,, "the fan runs constantly even once the set temp has been achieved".

For a saloon with lots of windows, this may be a good idea.
But, why can this not work as the Honeywell control picture shows "auto" on the bottom??

To help on this, IMO, still need to know what controller, (if one in use) is in the box.
Could be just a few lil (Bosch type) relays in there.
But like madhatter1 started, You really want to kick this dawg??If you have the need to kick something, Help me on our boat. I still have some projects that need to be kicked around.
Click to expand...


Ralph that was actually my comment about the fan running continuously. It's not bothersome when running the A/C but when using the heat the fan starts to have a cooling effect on the room when the heat pump cycles off. This is kind of annoying and uncomfortable as the temperature just see-saws up and down. It does this even in the "Auto" mode.

It would be more comfortable in heat mode if it just shut off after achieving the set point. There may be a setting inside the thermostat to change this feature I'll have to try and find a manual for it.
If so then I also subscribe to the old rule of leave well enough alone...
 
The Honeywell stats have a wide temp swing before engaging. The FX2 will allow complete control of the system. You can program them to turn on/off fan with compressor for heat or cool modes, dehumidify function, control fan speed, etc. Great upgrade. Just replace the PWX box with their box and run a Cat 5 cable to the new T-stat.
 
IOLANI said:
It would be more comfortable in heat mode if it just shut off after achieving the set point. There may be a setting inside the thermostat to change this feature I'll have to try and find a manual for it.
Click to expand...
Then lets get ya fixed.
Need a schematic of the thermo stat. Could have just of been installed incorrectly or has a bug.
Can use a pic inside your controller box or at least a model number from the box.

When are you heading south thru my hood?
All my hammers are down here.
 
That Honeywell thermostat is expensive because it's over 50 years old. I have one one my workshop furnace. I think it has a mercury switch in it not a bimetal coil. I'm not sure you can control the fan on a cruiseair unit with that thermostat. Changing to SMX control is a worthy upgrade.

Walt Hoover
 
The ad above for;
"Heavy Duty Line Voltage Thermostat" Could be correct. Like the 3 knob control, all is switched rite there.
Or,, relays deal with the heavy current in the box.

Were all just guessing till some specs or pictures come in.
 
Just popped the cover to take a look. Not much to see so far except 40 years of dust.


IMG_0222.webp

Not going to dig any deeper tonight because it's line voltage and it's running heat right now (50 degrees here in NJ) and I don't want to incur the wrath of the Admiral by opening a can of worms and winding up with no heat. Just peeking behind that front plate though it doesn't strike me as the type with a lot of options.
I'll see if I can dig up a manual for it online now that I know the model number.
 
I threw 4 of these out when I upgraded. I had no idea anyone would ever want them. The new stuff is so much better.
 
Seems just like a fan control page is missing.
 
IOLANI said:
Before you go ahead and order check out this link...has the same part number as mine sans the -1 suffix. Description is poor doesn't indicate if it's line voltage but for that price it's worth looking into.

https://controlscentral.com/eCatalog.aspx?SearchID=5&q=t6052b1005 honeywell&ViewType=2
Click to expand...

Thanks that saves quite a bit of money. As to wanting these instead of the new ones-- They lasted 40 years. I have had the SMX and the ones I had didn't last 10. Computers and circuit boards tend to go bad with power surges or lightning nearby. I prefer the old technology even though the temperature swing is greater. In Florida they pretty much run all the time anyway. Also it is a direct replacement. No fishing wires, re-wiring, etc. I am pretty lazy
 
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