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Clamps and hoses

  • Thread starter Thread starter whoover
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whoover

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Jul 11, 2011
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
42' CONVERTIBLE (1971 - 1978)
I'm in the middle of changing hose gear clamps to t bolt. Some places do not have enough space for two t bolt clamps. Is it allowable to use a gear clamp as a second clamp? Also what is the preferred hose to use for air conditioner water lines, above and below the water line?

Thanks
Walt Hoover
 
The idea of two clamps is insurance, just in case one fails. The bolt type, T clamps I am guessing, you should be careful there is a lot of leverage available to crunch or crack something while tightening.

Just my $.02
 
I'm in the middle of changing hose gear clamps to t bolt. Some places do not have enough space for two t bolt clamps. Is it allowable to use a gear clamp as a second clamp? Also what is the preferred hose to use for air conditioner water lines, above and below the water line?

Thanks
Walt Hoover
Mr. Hoover,

I think you back up the t-bolt with any quality clamp without penalty. As I recall, my hose shop carries some that are, more or less, the same width as gear clamps.

I use wet exhaust hose (most often with wire) for all underwater applications. It can be a little harder to work with, but the peace of mind (as you say) is worth it. I use the reinforced clear above the waterline for the HVAC condensers. I don't leave my units on when I leave the boat for home. I know someone who does, or did, and one of his lines blew giving the ER a weeks' long saltwater rinse job. What I don't know is what blew; he doesn't like to bring up the subject. Probably a clamp rusted thru as the pressure is negligible. Even though the above the waterline lines are ...well...above the waterline, I double clamp. Cheap insurance. It's amazing how inexpensively good clamps can had an industrial supply house.

Can't avoid gilding the lilly and advising to coat all clamps everywhere with a protective film. Clamps seem to last forever when protected from salt.
 
I only have t-bolt clamps on the exhaust system and intake pipe hoses. I think using a good grade of clamp (ABA) and double clamping is sufficient on most hoses. I use a solid white air conditioning hose on all the a/c units. I also never leave a/c on when we leave the boat. I work to keep the bilges dry ,so there is not a smell in the boat when we return. I did have a bronze ac pump develop a hole one day , this filled the pump compartment with water ( drains were clogged) and ruined both pumps . This was just after we bought the boat. I learned about cleaning clogged drains. I also got March pumps, magnetic drives (no seals to fail) nylon housings ,and ceramic impellers. Both have been running since 2003 and here in Miami they run a lot. Also keep checking the T-bolt clamps are on the exhaust , they seem to loosen. I use Trident wire reinforced hoses below the water line.
 
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T Clamps are a must on large exhaust hoses but for anything else quality solid band gear clamps are fine. They don’t fail like perforated clamps.
 
Also keep checking the T-bolt clamps are on the exhaust , they seem to loosen. I use Trident wire reinforced hoses below the water line.
Possible they are loosening. Also possible you are compressing the fiberglass tubes. In my experience, once you get a good seal on those they tend to stay stuck.
 
If using T clamps on fiberglass exhaust pipes you really need SS sleeves inside the glass tubes.

When I redid my exhausts during the repower, we installed sleeves at every hose to fiberglass connection. Not cheap but no worries. I also had it done on the boat i run after the cat technician cracked the fiberglass replacing the 14” silicon hose between the risers and the fiberglass.
 
Silicon hose is best with smooth clamps. I buy AWAB clamps all the time.

They have a swedish made 316 that's top of the line.

T bolt clamps often are over tightened. That's why crush sleeves are needed.
 
Thanks for the ideas. There will be crush sleeves going in the exhaust, I noticed the starboard tube looked out of shape when I took the hose off. I see I will be ordering a bunch of the white air conditioner hose for that job.

Thanks
Walt Hoover
 
Good thinking on the over tightening, one of my tubes has been over tighten, it leaks slightly. I plan to replace the tube and put sleeves in the end of the tube. Does anyone know if I can just install the sleeves? Would this be water tight?
 
The cracks can easily be repaired with epoxy
 
Thanks, this might simplify the repair greatly, the tube is crushed at the joint in the engine room at the junction with the riser. I have a bill from the prior owner from a high dollar yard in Ft Lauderdale where a exhaust sweep and turbo were replaced, they used the wrong bolts ,nuts and washers when they bolted the turbo to the sweep. Two of the bolts broke in half in normal use. I suspect the crushed tube was their work too. The bill, $7000.00.
 
I have a very good old fashioned mechanic here in Miami who specializes in alignment, thru hulls, exhausts etc. he did my repower incl all the tubes and hoses and mufflers. Old fashioned as in always having a caliper in his back pocket :).

He also did exhaust tube repair and 14” crush sleeves on the lazzara 84 I run.

Good guy and reasonable. I can PM you his number.
 
Thanks, please send his phone number.
 
No mention of the spring loaded clamps, which I thought flexed but maintained their tension. Should not need to re-tighten.
Comments?
 
No need for constant torque clamps for exhaust tubes or cooling system. I use them on the charge air circuit.
 
No need for constant torque clamps for exhaust tubes or cooling system. I use them on the charge air circuit.

Not true if you use the constant torque ones you don't need the s.s liners! And I just redid my exhaust this winter and went with all silicone and added the silicone 6" bellows off the exhaust elbow. I bought it in a kit with clamps guess what clamps it came with?

If you pick constant torque you win :cool:

Also my Cummins came with ALL hoses done with constant torque.
 
Or you can just not over tighten the tubes. It is still possible to over tighten the constant torque clamps btw.
 
.......... And I just redid my exhaust this winter and went with all silicone and added the silicone 6" bellows off the exhaust elbow. I bought it in a kit with clamps guess what clamps it came with?
......

Where did you buy your silicon exhaust kit with clamps? I need to convert mine over in the future.

And I already did repair a crushed tube from somebody over tightening.
 
Another question, I have about a seven foot run from my A/C pump to one of my units which is self contained. Has anyone used PVC with short hoses in between? I'm thinking about this only because it would strap up nice with no drooping. It's nice to get points for neatness.

Walt Hoover
 

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