Changing Seconday Fuel Filters

[solanderi]

1985 45C w/ 692's need the secondary fuel filters changed....Does anyone have a DD part #. Also, since I have read numerous posts where folks have problems w/ priming the lines after a filter change out. Could someone just run down the steps here so I don't create any additional trouble. Thank you,

Greg

 

[Genesis]

Here 'ya go.

Fuel Filter Secondary: Wix 33540 / AC TPS40X

To keep priming problems to a dull roar, fill the cannister with Diesel Kleen after you replace the element and before you reinstall it. You'll still get some burbling when you start back up but you won't get the reaming you get if you start with the can dry.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

FWIW-- Used you guys WIX lube oil and trans numbers and they were all good numbers. When I changed over to spin on secondaries I just bought the brackets and filters from DD. The adapters were only $20 each and the filters about $9 each. ws

 

[Brian Degulis]

To keep priming problems to a dull roar, fill the cannister with Diesel Kleen after you replace the element and before you reinstall it

I would not do that you will be running the engine on almost 100% Diesel Kleen on start up. I'm not familiar with the stuff and maybe it won't do any harm but there isn't any advantage to it either. I would just fill the canister with fuel.

If you end up having any problems with air (I don't think you will) but if you do a simple way to solve it is to disconect the return line fitting and use a vacum pump to draw fuel thru the system. By vacum pump I mean the kind used for oil changes on smaller engines.

A clever way to eliminate priming issues forever is to tee into the fuel line on both engines after the delivery pump or use an un used fitting on the rack side of the final or secondary filter housing. Install a valve and line conecting the two engines together. Then you can use a percentage of fuel from one engine to prime the other. So no filling canisters no mess and a great backup should the fuel system delivery side fail on one engine. It's possable to run two engines on one delivery pump at reduced power and yes there is enough capacity to provide enough return to keep the injectors cool at reduced power.

Good Luck

Brian

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I agree with Karl. We used to fill the filters with straight ATF on the trucks, but DK works the same. First of all it is clean with no particles that could be in a diesel can that has been sitting around in the ER for emergencies. Secondly, it is a great cleaner. It will give your injectors a quick cleaning and most of it will return to the tank.

 

[Genesis]

There's no problem with running on DK other than the expense.

I like a priming/polishing pump even better, and installed one on Gigabite - but if you don't have one, DK is a better choice than raw fuel. The problem with raw fuel is that it is not filtered and of unknown cleanliness.

DK in a sealed bottle is superior to that.

 

[REBrueckner]

For anyone with a fuel set up that doesn't result in easy starts after a filter change and filling the filter cannister with your liquid of choice, a simple solution is to shut off nearby fuel valves..at the primaries or secondaries. This prevents syphoning of fuel from fuel lines.

If there are no valves and you have experienced start problems after a filter change, then consider adding a shut off valve on either side of the fuel filter assembly. And of course if you expect/suspect any problems, you can always start your engine and warm it up a bit before the fuel change to ease subsequent starting or use block heaters while changing filters.

Just remember to OPEN any shut off valves before restarting or you'll run the fuel lines dry anyway. One way to "remind" yourself is to hang a tag on your start key or starter button at the helm. Of course you'll have to read it before you start!!!

 

[Nonchalant1]

I have a fuel shutoff valve on the fuel supply line from the tank and a little hand priming pump installed that draws fuel from the supply before the shutoff valve and pumps into the fuel line after the shutoff valve but before the RACOR filter. See picture: the pump is the small black handle below and right of the FloScan damper can. The fuel shutoff valve is the blue valve handle below and left of the RACOR cannister.

That way I can shut off the fuel supply so the fuel doesn't siphon back down into the tank when I change RACORs or final fuel filters and I can pump filtered fuel back into the RACOR can or fuel lines by hand. Works great.

Doug Shuman

 

[Genesis]

Yep. I did basically the same thing with a Walbro and a check valve. It allowed me to use the pump to prime (and, with one more valve, to polish) and yet automatically bypassed as soon as the engine started (the Walbro can't flow anywhere near enough fuel with the engine operating)