Changing oil

[Seas the Moment]

Quick question: is it absolutely necessary to fill the filters with oil prior to installing? It is so much easier to spin on an empty filter than full of oil filter. I figure they will fill as soon as engines start and then I could add the amount of oil displaced by dual filters to crankcase.

BTW I did this once without any issues, but in reading post re: oil changes it seems everyone fills them prior.

Thoughts?
Thanks, Loran

 

[Boatsb]

The idea is to have oil flow at startup. If the filters are empty it takes time to fill them. If that allows parts to run without lube it can be damaging.

As a practice most people fill them. In reality there may be a small bit of air in them after but small vs all air would be better.

Crank with the stops engaged or use an oil priming pump if they have them.

Do you actually have a boat to work on or did you join the hypothetical crowd?

 

[Seas the Moment]

Hypothetical? I'm changing the oil on my 79 58' MY as we write. Had to change out reverso impeller. But got 5 gals from each engine. Filters look like they can hold 1/2 - 3/4 gallon each. About right, 6+ gallons per twin sister.

I'll fill filters. Thanks for advice, makes sense and I suspected that answer.

Loran

 

[davidwigler]

Unfortunately my filters are installed upside down so filling them is not an option. Makes changing them a mess too. I have the spin-on conversions and wish they were remote mounted on the bulkhead wall.

 

[davidwigler]

That got me thinking about the next oil change.... Maybe I should move them. Anybody know what's involved in the plumbing?

 

[MikeP]

FWIW, although lots of people fill filters, no engine maker that I am aware of (including DD) recommend filling filters before installation. Quite to the contrary, there are documented cases where some material, like a piece of the plastic cap of the oil bottle dropped into the filter during the filling and subsequently plugged an oil passage.

That being said, lot's of people do it. Do what you are comfortable doing!

 

[bobk]

To make filling the filters easy, I place them in a 1 gal plastic bucket. I made a plywood support disc to just fit inside the bucket, and cut a hole to just hold the filter upright. Think concentric circles. I fill using the Jabsco oil change pump.

Bobk

 

[Seas the Moment]

Mike has never steered me wrong. I'm going with no oil, because I can. I gotta believe when the engine fire, those filters fill quickly. Tell ya what, I will watch oil pressure and report back if I see a momentary drop.

Right now I have a bigger problem. I didn't change the oil/filters last time, had it done. Well, guess what? Can't get the flippin filters off, I should note they are remote mounted spin on. I got on them with my strap wrench enough that I dimpled the side wall of the filter. Can't break loose ! I should note I did not start engines and warm oil this time. I'm in Ft Lauderdale, 89 today. Oil was viscous enough for my reverso to pump out oil. So, I was thinking of heating up the filter at top to loosen. Seems to be the only deviation... Cool filter cans.

Thoughts? Other than kicking the kid that tightened them in the #+@@!

Thanks

Loran

 

[bigbill]

running the engines isn't just to warm the oil, it is also to get all of the crap suspended in the oil so it pumps out not just sit on the bottom of the pan to contaminate the new oil.

 

[Finalee]

Take a coal chisel that had a flattened blade and place it on the seam of the filter where it contacts the flange. A couple of taps or whacks with a hammer on the chisel has always worked for me.

 

[Finalee]

The idea is to rotate it just enough to break it loose.

 

[brian4190]

when my strap wrench wont do it I use a giant pair of channel locks and grab the filter near the bottom so it doesnt cave in as much when you turn it.

 

[MikeP]

Re pressure drop at oil change...

If you have remote filters you WILL see that it takes longer for pressure to come up initially after an oil change than it does with engine-mounted filters because you may have 15 feet of oil line to pressurize, depending on where the filters are mounted.

Once the lines are full again, the system pressurizes on subsequent startups as quickly as an engine with an engine-mounted filter. Filling a filter will slightly reduce the time it takes to pressurize that first start. There is no evidence that it matters but, like I said, some folks are more comfortable with filter-filling. I used to do it many years ago but haven't done it in a long time.

NOTE that with a rebuilt engine on its first start, I would pressurize the oil system prior to starting but only for that first start/initial run-in.

 

[Boatsb]

Prelube?

I guess easier wins. I'd fill then and not take a chance but what do I know?

 

[Glory]

Cat, has many documents that discourage filling filter. The idea is the easy place to fill is the center passage. That is the filter out side. So if you fill the out side, discharge side, you are not providing the true protection intended.

On the other hand, Cat no longer provides fuel primer pumps standard. With out a primer pump you have some trouble on start up after a filter change without filling the filters(s).

What were they thinking.

 

[Boatsb]

Cat, has many documents that discourage filling filter. The idea is the easy place to fill is the center passage. That is the filter out side. So if you fill the out side, discharge side, you are not providing the true protection intended.

On the other hand, Cat no longer provides fuel primer pumps standard. With out a primer pump you have some trouble on start up after a filter change without filling the filters(s).

What were they thinking.

I was taught to saturate the media and it will fill the center. If you fill the center it drops down anyway. Clean oil from a new bottle is always used and in all the hundreds of oil changes i have done not one failure.

Its the same with fuel filters you want to fill the inlet not the outlet. If the fuel is not absolutely clean its not suitable for priming.

 

[spartonboat1]

I still have the original (1972) horizontal canister filters, which are impossible to pre-fill. I will say I would drop the oil after warming up the engine first and try to use fresh oil that was in 60 degs ambient, so it would flowing at start up.

So since I have as good oil pressure on the original port engine(2,200 hrs) as on the in-frame majored stbd engine (550 hrs), that the case for pre-filling the filter canister is not that strong.

 

[Boatsb]

I still have the original (1972) horizontal canister filters, which are impossible to pre-fill. I will say I would drop the oil after warming up the engine first and try to use fresh oil that was in 60 degs ambient, so it would flowing at start up.

So since I have as good oil pressure on the original port engine(2,200 hrs) as on the in-frame majored stbd engine (550 hrs), that the case for pre-filling the filter canister is not that strong.

I have the same setup on my hatt and prime the oil by cranking with the stops on before startup when I change them. I am about to install remote filters that are spin on and I will be able to fill them before starting.

 

[Walter P]

I have always felt that running the engines a while prior to an oil change serves two functions. It "stirs" up the oil in the sumps and other low areas and I believe more importantly it leaves a film of oil on all the internal parts thereby reducing the possibility of a "dry" start. When everything is changed (filters and oil) it should still have enough lubricity for it's initial startup.

Walt