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Change shift cables

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bugsy
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Bugsy

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 26, 2008
Messages
500
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
43' CONVERTIBLE-Series I (1978 - 1983)
I've read through some of the older threads and posts and replacing shift cables is a job others have undertaken themselves.

I have a 43C with 6V92's and "Steve" at Sam's has advised that I require a 24 ft. and a 28 ft. cable.

Now----does anybody have a ballpark estimate on the time actually required to detach and replace these cables?

And is it really as uncomplicated as suggested?

Thx
 
Very simple job to do on my boat, it depends on how the cables are routed. Just make sure you don't kink them or any tight bends or curves. If you have a chase to pull them thru connect the new cable to the old and pull the new one thru using the old cable. I would also suggest only doing one cable at time or marking the ends so you don't mix them up

Chris
Superior Nights 53C
 
Chris...

How long did it take you to do the job?

And----one person?
 
A little different but also the same- I pulled 4 throttle cables (2 helm stations) on my 53MY a few weeks ago. Took 2 guys 6 hours, including removal and reinstall of paneling and trim. No way would I try with one person. Way too simple for 2 guys pulling and pushing. Do yourself a favor and get a coupling to connect old to new cables to pull through at once.
 
If you can find a 10-32 barrel nut you can thread the new cable to the old and pull it through. How long depends on how many zip ties and spiral wrap on the old cable. It's better with 2 people since you may have to pull the cable back and forth if it gets hung up. It's pretty easy to be d the ends if you just start pulling
 
What he said. It's called a coupling nut. I had a couple of them for years that were round and tapered on the ends. I don't remember where I got them- sorry
 
Do yourself a favor and get some wire ease at the local electrical place, it will help the new cable to slide in lot easier.
 
It is not a one-person job, although I did eight cables alone. But it was not fun, and it was on a much smaller boat than yours. I used coupling nuts, duct tape as insurance, and a lot of WD40, which is not as good as Wire-Eeze. One of the problems is that the cables are so long that you end up with all these huge lengths of cable (with lubricant on them) flapping all over the place.

But it is worth the effort. New cables do a lot for these old boats.

BTW, use the THINNEST cables you can, not the thickest. Thinner cables have less moving friction. And make sure they are secured every foot or so when they are not in a chase, to reduce lash, which will make them less efficient.
 
I've read through some of the older threads and posts and replacing shift cables is a job others have undertaken themselves.

I have a 43C with 6V92's and "Steve" at Sam's has advised that I require a 24 ft. and a 28 ft. cable.

Now----does anybody have a ballpark estimate on the time actually required to detach and replace these cables?

And is it really as uncomplicated as suggested?

Thx
With all deference to SAMs, the length of each cable is right in its part number. For instance it might be a morse 32377-3-240in. The '240in' is how long it is. The number is imprinted along the lengthy of the cable and certain cable assemblies can bend to a tighter radius than others. Get the best cable you can afford. You'll be able to route it easier due to decreased radius and it will be smoother overall. The coupling nut idea is a good one for sure and while you're at it snake through a pull string or two for future use. The adjustments for full open and closed throttle is the only tricky part and not even really.
 
Sure it helps to have two or more people to help however I did mine myself. On my boat (53C) it was very simple. With the center mounted station on the bridge the cables drop straight down into the salon, run to the aft bulk head and down into the engine room. There are two large wide panels that are removable that allow the transition of the cables into the engine room. Once run all you have is two simple connections to do. I don't recall how long it took me, maybe a half day which I'm sure would take a lot longer in a motor yacht.

Chris
Superior Nights 53C
 
I read online that the cable length is embossed on the cable but Steve at Sam's was very helpful in pulling up exactly what was ordered for this particular hull.

My "problem" is that Steve indicated that the Morse 33C was replaced by the 3300 "Extreme". He priced those cables for me. I went online to "GotoMarine" and Teleflex now makes a TFXtreme CCX633 which replaces the Morse 33C AND 3300.

I know there is value in Sam's as a resource but unfortunately, the GotoMarine price for the newer cable is 30% less than Sam's price for the 3300.

Once I overcome that moral hurdle---I think I have it; lubrication and two people. And patience.

Thanks all.
 
If you keep the outer sleeves pushed toward the coupling nut you lessen the possibility of bending the end of the new cable while your pulling it. I slide the old and new to the middle and tape with electrical tape. Take it easy around bends and if it gets hung up pull back and forth until it clears.
 
You should also try Panish controls for the cables if you aren't going to get them from Sam's. Panish make their own cables and they are very good- and you are buying direct from them.
 
I had the same issue of where to buy. But after Steve helped with the identification, and service of this site, and being a general "good guy" by answering various Q's over the years, it was easy to spend the extra few bucks and order through him. Where will we all be if we "had" to save the very last dollar and this site went down or Sam's went out of business? I was happy to buy from Sams!
 
You should also try Panish controls for the cables if you aren't going to get them from Sam's. Panish make their own cables and they are very good- and you are buying direct from them.

I called Panish but after several rings, the phone was answered by a "machine" that reported the mailbox as "full".

I checked the cables to see if the length was embossed on the cable as suggested both here and on a website. Nada!
So---if I buy replacement cable at the length suggested, I'm in trouble if the suggestion is wrong. And if I don't pre-purchase----taking the safe route of measuring the existing cable---I don't have a means to extract and replace in one procedure.
I know---everyone knows---it will be next to impossible to thread that replacement cable without the aid of the existing cable.

Stiff? What's so wrong with stiff?
 
I called Panish but after several rings, the phone was answered by a "machine" that reported the mailbox as "full".

I checked the cables to see if the length was embossed on the cable as suggested both here and on a website. Nada!
So---if I buy replacement cable at the length suggested, I'm in trouble if the suggestion is wrong. And if I don't pre-purchase----taking the safe route of measuring the existing cable---I don't have a means to extract and replace in one procedure.
I know---everyone knows---it will be next to impossible to thread that replacement cable without the aid of the existing cable.

Stiff? What's so wrong with stiff?
That's probably because they've already been replaced, even more reason why SAM's has proved invaluable. As for the price, these cables aren't too expensive to begin with. If SAMs has what you want why not give them the business. Who else is keeping such detailed info as the exact cables that came with your boat? That should be worth something to you and if we all use SAM's as a library and buy elsewhere, SAM's will go away. I understand when the difference is huge or for parts like zincs which can be sourced anywhere, but if you need their help to determine what you need, don't you think giving them the sale is the right thing to do. At the very least, we shouldn't be advertising a competitor who beats their price on SAM's sponsored free site. Unless we're talking about a huge difference in price, we should be supporting SAM's. If they go away we'll be suffering the loss too.
 
Last edited:
+1

What are we talking about $30 or $40 ? Isn't it worth that just for the advice that saves you having to pre-measure and not have the old cable available to pull the new one through?
 
Hi All,

+2

What Jack said !!
 
I get most everything local but when I need to order I check SAMs. We need to make sure the little guys like SAMs stay around or we will all be buying chinese knockoffs from walmart marine.

Think of Sams like an advisor and let them sell a few things to keep the doors open.

I was on the phone with my imtra rep bitching about pyacht.He explained they go out of business once a year to get out of paying debts. No wonder they sell cheaper. why would we support that?
 

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