Caulk recommendations?

[Bill Root]

What are those of you who do yacht maintenance using for flexible, paintable, removable caulk on painted surfaces? I had been using Boat Life Lifecaulk, but the last few times I have used it the results have been terrible; hard chunks coming out of the tube in the middle of a caulk line even though the tube was fresh, caulk turning brown after a few days, and most recently I have experienced the caulk pulling away from the painted surface letting water get underneath.

Has anyone found a product thaty works well and holds up over time? Thanks.

 

[MikeP]

I have had similar bad luck with BoatLife in virtually any application. It cracks/splits and I have had to remove/replace it. I don't use boatlife at all anymore for any purpose. I now use 3m 4000 where I would have used Boatlife. it works very well and is paintable.

 

[Bugsy]

I use 4200 wherever caulking is required. Can't comment on whether paintable but very pleased with result compared to alternatives.

 

[Bill Root]

Thanks Mike & Bugsy. I'll try 4200.

 

[J's Dream]

Bill,

If it's going to be exposed to sunlight, look into using 3M's 4000, rather than 4200. The 4000 has UV inhibitors....especially good if you're not painting over it.

 

[GJH]

4000 and 4200 are paintable, but given 4000's UV protection, it is less necessary to do so vs 4200 or 5200 if in an area exposed to sunlight.

 

[eze2bme]

3m 4000

 

[REBrueckner]

It's a shame about the Lifecaulk...I posted about similar problems maybe 8 years ago and had hoped it was a temporary production problem. Boy did I waste a lot of time and effort.

For unknown reasons, the small few squeeze tubes I have used since then have been the "old" oustanding quality. I used them for swimming pool skimmer repair, underwater, and the stuff stops leaks due to cracks..and lasts.

Are the 3M caulks ok for underwater application, such as thru hulls????

 

[Maynard Rupp]

I stay away from 3M 5200 as it is very permanent and not flexible. 3M 4200 is a great choice if it won't be exposed to sunlight. Painting the caulk will prevent the sun problems. 3M 4000 is great for areas that are exposed to the sun. The only problem with 4000 is shelf life. Because it is not as poular as 4200, I have had several tubes that were partially cured and useless. I have found that most marine stores will let you puncture the end, (for the roll up tubes), or cut the tip and poke out the inside seal for the caulking gun stuff. Now you need a caulking gun to push some material out. If it is partially cured you just hand the bad stuff to them and try again. At least you won't have to make several trips to the store to get a fresh tube. While I say that, it is entirely possible that their entire stock is bad. I try to stick with the roll up tubes. It seems easier to find fresh stuff that way.

 

[jim rosenthal]

5200 is great for something you absolutely know will never need to come apart. Problem is, not much on a boat will NEVER need to come apart. 4200 is nearly as tough, but does come apart. 4000 is best all around especially above the WL.

BoatLife has become garbage. It used to be good. That was a while ago. Like years.

 

[Bill Root]

Thanks again for all the feedback. Good to know I'm not the only one having problems with BoatLife. Sounds like 3m 4000/4200 is the way to go.

 

[spartonboat1]

It's a shame about the Lifecaulk...I posted about similar problems maybe 8 years ago and had hoped it was a temporary production problem. Boy did I waste a lot of time and effort.

For unknown reasons, the small few squeeze tubes I have used since then have been the "old" oustanding quality. I used them for swimming pool skimmer repair, underwater, and the stuff stops leaks due to cracks..and lasts.

Are the 3M caulks ok for underwater application, such as thru hulls????

Thought I had read once that 5200 was specifically intended for below water application and would set up, even under water. The phrase I heard was "above the waterline 4200, below the waterline 5200...". However, 5200 takes a couple days to reach full cure, so it is not like some quick sealants/gaskets, such as Copper Ultra, which is very good and sets up very quickly, if no gasket is avail.

If you use 5200, allow an extended period for set up. But once it sets up, it is nigh impossible to get apart, without some type of machinery. Note that it is very, very sticky stuff and gets all over, it you are not gingerly during application. If you don't mind being messy, well that's up to you.

I replaced the gaskets on a couple wheelhouse/bridge windows, on my 43'DC. I am pretty sure I used either 4200 or 4000, and may have been in gray, if not white. These were the grey vinyl OEM gaskets from Sam's and I have had zero leaks.

Also, I replaced an air vent for the fuel tank area, which is aft near the stern, about a foot fwd on the side about a foot down from the gunnel. I think the original installation was 5200, because it had been virtually impossible to remove the vent. However, I bought a Dremel vibrating sander/cutter and I was amazed it slide through the old caulk. I think to some degree, it cut through because it also heated the old caulk. I used either 4200 or 4000 for that. Interesting that the original vent was super heavy duty molded fiberglas, while the replacement was a molded plastic, about 1/3 the thickness.