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Can't Get My Rudder Post Stuffing Box Apart!

  • Thread starter Thread starter hcalmar
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hcalmar

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 12, 2005
Messages
242
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
37' CONVERTIBLE (1977 - 1982)
On the 37C I have the two bolt rudder shaft stuffing boxes that look the one here, though a little cleaner. I have not had it apart in 20 years. Nuts come off the bolts but I can not separate the pieces. Not a lot of room. I hit it with penetrant. How hard can I wack it? How much pressure can I put on the flang ends? Can I use heat?
Thanks in advance
Hal
Rudder SB.webp
 
Pour some vinager on it to help clean up some of the calcium build up. After it does its job take a drumme tool with a SS wire brush to continue cleaning it up. You can use heat and while hot wack at it with a hammer. Use a block of wood so not to ding it. If you can't fit the wood block in there then tap on it to help break it lose. Good luck.
 
Are you in the water or on the hard? I would not use a torch , you can use a heat gun. As a last ditch effort , remove the studs by double nutting them and backing them out and hammer the ears to rotate the top piece. That should separate it. .....Pat
 
You are absolutely correct on the heat gun and not a torch. I should have mentioned that rather than say use heat.
 
A puller, if space allows, would be my first choice. If space doesn't allow for a puller make one that will. If you can get the studs out, and I would use heat, you can then pass a piece of threaded rod through the adjustable flange then screw on a nut and screw the threaded rod intl the fixed flange and use the nuts to jack the adjustable flange out.

If you break a stud(s) your job will get more complicated, and with poor space/geography that will not be good.

JM
 
Thank you great advice all. Hal
 
When we had ours repacked I had them install nuts under the flanges just in case I had to go there in the future.
 
Don't know if it factory, but all my stuffing boxes had nuts above AND below the flange. I simply removed the top nuts, and used the bottom nuts to jack the flange up and off. Once you do get it apart, thread a nut on both sides before placing the collar to compress the new packing. It'll make it easier for somebody next time.
 
Put some Ospho in a spray bottle. Rinse with plenty of water. Then knock it loose with a 2lb drilling hammer. You can forget the heat. That hunk of brass would take forever to warm up.
 
Hit it with PB Blaster (or similar) every couple of hours followed by the hammer treatment. Or give the PB overnight and it'll probably surprise you how easy it'll be.

As an example: Tried to remove painted over 3/4" plug from 33 year old Detroit X 2 to install block heaters. Put 18" breaker bar plus a 24" pipe wrench on the bar--just watched everything flex; applied impact wreck with same result. Sprayed penetrating oil on plug every few hours and took it out with ratchet the next day, no sweat--untold layers of paint penetrated. Same issue with second engine--12 hours and easy out. PB Blaster--don't leave home without it.
 
Is PB Blaster the same as Liquid Wrench?
 
PB blaster ROCKS. I have cans everywhere.

Tip: Heat the piece and then hit it with PB while hot.....
 
I had to repack my stuffing boxes about three months ago...double nut the studs above the flanges and remove them from the stuffing boxes. Once the studs are removed reinstall them with a single nut below the flange, you will use the single nuts to "push" the collar up the shaft. Soak the parts with PB Blaster and be patient, no need to get rough with hammers. I did not need to use my heat gun, YMMV. If you want to discuss the particulars send a PM....
 
Where do you find this. PB product? West Marine? Sounds like the cats meow.
 
Any hardware store even Lowe's and Home Depot.

Now that you have heard of it, you will see it.

I use all the time.


Jonathan Brein
 
I get PB Blaster at Home Depot...
 
The only I can get them apart is to make aluminum wedges and insert them between the base and top.' A few whacks and they come up. May take a few wedges to do the job.
 
While we are at it does anyone know what size packing the 37C rudder box uses?
 

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