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Cable lube

chris piazza

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 24, 2006
Messages
589
Hatteras Model
53' CONVERTIBLE (1969 - 1980)
Not sure if this has been posted before but I seen it on another boating site. I had a sticky shift cable for my starboard engine, didn't really stick anywhere just took a little more pressure to move the lever. All the tool is a tire pressure valve, 1' of clear tubing and two hose clamps. I disconnected the cable, clamped on the tubing, filled it with MMO and than pumped it up to 10lbs of pressure. It took less than five minutes for the oil to pass through to the end, which is a long run from the bridge to the engine room. I did this twice. don't forget to put some rags at the end of the cable to catch the runoff. Is it back to perfect? No but I would say 95% and it's a cheap and easy fix.

Chris
Superior nights53c
 

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Thanks. Great idea. My cables from the flybridge are also harder to push/pull. I tried dripping MMO into the cables but I'm certain this is an easier solution. Can't wait to try this!
 
I saw that posted on a houseboat site. The land of 100' control cables. Great idea

Art
 
Another method - an old motorcycle technique - is to use a small plastic bag, like a baggie or whatever. Cut a corner out of the bag to make a hole a little larger than the cable housing. Stick the cable through the hole so the housing is into the baggie maybe 1/2" and then wrap a rubber band around the baggie corner/housing so it seals. Put lubricant in the bag - MMO is a great choice - and hang the bag from a convenient spot so the lube will drain through. Having a container to catch the fluid at the other end is a good idea.

This method does not require any sort of pressure device but, obviously, requires more time. However, it works well and will do the job in an hour or two while you are doing some other work.
 
I like the tire valve idea. Brilliant!!
 
Great idea. This task has been on my to do for awhile.
 
I get what your saying Mike cause I have tried the drip method before on some dirt bikes I used to run. Forcing it through with 10-20lbs of pressure pushed a bunch of crap out of it, the lube oil actually had some color change from whatever was in there. As quick and easy and cheap as it is I think I'm going to do all four cables every season, and trust me I'm all about quick, easy and cheap!

Chris
Superior Nights 53C
 
I'm not at the boat to measure, so just curious what size inside diameter clear hose you used. Thxs.
 
I have a dumb questions. What is MMO?
 
Tom, I left it on the boat but I'm pretty sure it's 7/16 ID. Got it a lowes for about .35 cents. Same size as the OD of the tire valve.

Chris
 
Thanks Chris - next on my "to do" list!
 
Tom I just got back from the boat today and checked the cable diameter, its 7/16 OD with 5/16 ID, sorry about that! I was close

Chris
 
Great idea! What's the best way to fill the little tube with MMO?
 
I tried this for 24 hours with up to 25 psi on the tubing. As far as I can tell, did not get even a drop of MMO to come out at the low end of the cable. Any idea what I may be doing wrong?
 
Maybe the hose clamp on the cable is too right. I haven't tried it yet but will soon.
 
I tried this for 24 hours with up to 25 psi on the tubing. As far as I can tell, did not get even a drop of MMO to come out at the low end of the cable. Any idea what I may be doing wrong?

Did the MMO level in the tube go down? Maybe it ended at the pilot house control?
 
The cable could be very dirty. This suggestion is a good one, I have done it several times over the years, however, it has always been a short term fix. IMHO, unless your selling the boat, bite the bullet and replace the cables.
 
Make sure the clamp on the cable is tightened down on the crimped fitting and not on the cable, that is the only thing that I can think of that would prevent the oil from going through.

Dave, I secured the hose to the cable first, poured the oil in the tube and than twisted on the air valve and clamped it
 
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