Broken Window

[lumina]

Hi All,

Last week, my mate was trying to push the boat off the dock to re-set a fender.

The wind was blowing against him so he put both feet on the piling and his back against the helm bulkhead.

Without realizing it his shoulders pushed against the stationary half of the sliding window and he broke it.

I took a quick look at the archive and tips and tricks and didn't find the answer to my question which is I can't remember how to remove the vertical aluminum stop that holds the window in place.

Anyone know off the top of their head ?

 

[dottieshusband]

Don't know if it's the same window, but the aluminum extrusion on the back vertical edge of the glass is glued on mine...a few light taps with an upholstery hammer and mine came loose.

 

[eze2bme]

Mine was glued on also with what looked like black calk. A word of caution, when knocking it off be very careful to not try and pull it off too quickly as it can bend.
After removing the aluminum clean the inside with a putty knife. When re-installing mine I used a thin bead of black silicone.

 

[lumina]

Hi All,

Thanks guys......

 

[GalaxyGirl]

I have a broken window also. After you remove the vertical metal bar, how do you get the glass out of the frame?

 

[spartonboat1]

spartonboat1

I have a broken window also. After you remove the vertical metal bar, how do you get the glass out of the frame?

Depending on the boat, sliding the window to one end or the other of the "run" will expose it to a high elevation inside the upper channel. At that point the window can be lifted vertically. The lower window edge will then clear the lower channel and the lower edge of the window can be rotated outward, clearing the lower channel, at which point it can be then lowered out of the upper channel. Trick is to try both ends of the window run to determine which end has the clearance in the upper channel.

For the record, this works in the salon center/sliding windows of a 1972 43' DDFB. To ease handling of the window, try using a red colored "Bondo" brand vacuum clamp, sold at e.g. O'Reilly's, intended for use of pulling auto body panels dents; is not marketed for windows, but generates good vacuum for temporary handling of windows for a minute or so. Also, in a salon, the window can be removed to outside, while working from the inside. Have an aide standing outside to help with that.

 

[GalaxyGirl]

Re: spartonboat1

Thank you very much for explaining the removal process.

Depending on the boat, sliding the window to one end or the other of the "run" will expose it to a high elevation inside the upper channel. At that point the window can be lifted vertically. The lower window edge will then clear the lower channel and the lower edge of the window can be rotated outward, clearing the lower channel, at which point it can be then lowered out of the upper channel. Trick is to try both ends of the window run to determine which end has the clearance in the upper channel.

For the record, this works in the salon center/sliding windows of a 1972 43' DDFB. To ease handling of the window, try using a red colored "Bondo" brand vacuum clamp, sold at e.g. O'Reilly's, intended for use of pulling auto body panels dents; is not marketed for windows, but generates good vacuum for temporary handling of windows for a minute or so. Also, in a salon, the window can be removed to outside, while working from the inside. Have an aide standing outside to help with that.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I just pulled mine to clean the tracks. I put all new fuzzies in about 5 years ago but they were looking bad so I pulled the glass and scrubbed the tracks with a stiff brush and hosed them out. They look good as new.

The one pain would not lift out so I just cut a 2x4 about 3/8" longer than the height of the frame and hammered it in there. That was enough to gain the needed clearance.