Bridge deck window glass & frame refinishing

[Bill Root]

Several of the bridge deck windows on my 43' DCMY are cracked, and sevral are also delaminating. The glass is lightly tinted green, so it's probably Solex. I know I can get Solex, but wondered if anyone has used another product with good success.

When I replace the glass I will want to refinish the frames. They are plain anodized aluminum with the normal kind of corrosion you would expect on a 30year old salt water boat. What type of paint is recommended for refinishing, and what is the proper preparation? I assume I need to grind out and fill all the corrosion pits. The Sam's site has great info on glass replacement, but nothing on frame refinishing.

Your advice would be apprecitaed.

Bill Root
Tucandu
1973 43' DCMY

 

[Brian Degulis]

If your removing the frames then get them sandblasted it's the only thing that makes sense. Then you could get them powder coated or painted if you go with paint DO NOT use the typical etch primer over a blasted surface. Go with an epoxy primer and then whatever 2 part urethane you select my prefrence would be Awlgrip.

Brian

 

[Bill Allen]

I am in the midst of replacing all the glass on my 43. We've only got the three pieces of glass left on the windscreen. We used plain laminated glass, got all the trim and mouldings fron sams. Our frames had been painted and we scrapped all th paint off to get them back to the brown andodizing. We had some spots I wasn't happy about but decided the boats 36 years old and allowed to have a few bruises. The hardest part of the job has been cleanning all the caulking, weather strippeng, and crude off the frames and boat sides. We cut plywood to size to cover the openings while we worked on the frames. I'm actually quite happy with the glass, we had heavy tint on them before and I really like the brightness in the cabins. Bill

 

[richardoren]

Have got the same bugaboo as you guys - am removing (if I can get out the corroded locked up stripped screws) all the window frames on my boat and in many places the aluminum is eaten up - before sanding to a polish and varnishing with a 2 part varnish - what can I use to fill the eaten away holes or sections?!? Even off the wall suggestions are invited. TIA

 

[Bill Root]

I haven't had much luck getting advice I can use for this problem. I'm refinishing the aluminum bridge deck window frames while replacing the glass, not the salon windows, so removal and sand blasting is not an option. I will probably grind out all the little pits with a dremel tool and fill them with an epoxy paste prior to painting. The Awlgrip web site will provide good information on prep and painting.

Good luck, and if you find anything that works, let me know.

 

[Jimmy Watts]

There is not alot that you can do to an aluminum frame that has alot of corrosion in it already when trying to make a long term repair from what I have been told. Long term being 4 years or better. I am sure that there are some owners out there that can tell of success repairs lasting longer. Unfortunately when dealing with aluminum, salt, heat and moisture, its hard finding a repair that works extremely well. I have talked with owners who blasted and painted their frames. It works well for a short period (3 years) for some then the paint starts to bubble. There again, there are probable some out there who have had good results from this type repair.

The absolutely best repair is to get away from aluminum if possible. Glass the front windows solid or replace the existing with composite frames. I could help with the composite if interested. Unfortunately both of these are alot more expensive than repairing what you have. The up side to the expense would be never having to worry about the aluminum corroding again.

I know this does not give you any advice on repairing your existing frames, but maybe it will get someone else who has had some success explain their process.

Jimmy Watts
252-634-2214

 

[REBrueckner]

A sistership Hatteras owner had good luck with epoxy repair sticks mix applied to corrosion holes.....then he told me he found an aluminum based epoxy repair mix....I believe I posted the brand name previously under a separate thread, but no longer remember it.

 

[67hat34c]

In order to have a good repair you will have to sand blast and use dremel to grind out hollow spots. I drilled out the screw holes to bare aluminum and filled with epoxy filler and did not drill new holes, Glued frames in place with 5200.

If you do not get 100% of the corrosion out then it will come back. Sand blast hard and remove some material, I did my own as I had access to a sandblaster. After sand blast i went over the frames and opened up all spots with dremel with carbide tip and ground out cavities. after i was satisfied i cleaned with detergent, rinse and then acid washed with alumiprep. Immediately dried with compressed air and then sprayed with lacquer thinner to get any residual, no not attempt to wipe dry with a rag as the rough surface will grab fibers that will act like wicks. I hand painted the first coat of Dupont Zinc Chromate Epoxy primer. Let is run into the holes, I will act as a filler for the small ones. After primer then you can use Awlfairing to fill large holes and the drilled out screw holes. , sanding in between coats with carbon type sand paper. 545 awlgrip primer and top coats and you are done.

If you can do all this by yourself then go for it , if you plan to pay someone then buy new frames as you will save nothing. I did 2 frames this way and then bought new ones for the rest.

I do not believe in powder coating. Too thin and have found that it fails faster than paint or anodizing. My paint process has held up better than the new powder coated frames that I bought. Fact is that I have to replace on the new frames. Manufacturer made us a new one about a year ago but have not had time to remove and install new one. My paint process has many more layers and thicker than powdercoating. key is brushing or blobing on the zinc chromate epoxy primer. It will run into all small cracks and holes and inside the channels in the frame. Powdercoating can not do the same thing, cant go around blind corners or cracks.

 

[Bill Root]

Thanks to all who responded (Jimmy I will call you). This is great advice.

Bill