Bow rail bolts

[Trojan]

I have 2 bolts in the hand rail stanchions about midship that were standing up about 1/4 inch. I tried to tighten them but they just turned. I removed the bolts and found them to be brand new. I understand that Hatteras used plates underneath. How long are these bolts? The 2in. bolts did nothing. How thick is the gunnel. I have thoughts that the other bolts were broken off and the new bolts were just show plugs. I would like to drill and tap the holes. I have 6 and 8in.long taps. But I would like to know what I am getting into. I have not probed the holes yet. Maybe new bolts and 3M5200. 2 Of the 3 bolts are holding and I don't want try and remove one. I don't think I can get to them from the inside very easy.

BILL

 

[jim rosenthal]

Bill, if your boat is like mine you can't easily get to the underneath. I think 2" bolts are long enough, though, which makes me wonder if the holes are stripped out. I think you have to probe it and see what's going on in there. At first guess, if I had to fix that I would refill the hole with epoxy, redrill it a little smaller than the bolt, and install the bolt with 4200. That would hold it, and seal as well. There will probably be other, better ideas for this.

 

[Trojan]

I think your right Jim on the repair. As soon as the 12in. of snow melts. I'm going to try and probe. In the long run do like you say. Only use a stainless wood type screw with the 3m. I agree, I don't think there is an easy access to the bottom side there.The way it sounds up north right now 45deg..The snow will be gone when I return from FLA..

BILL

 

[Maynard Rupp]

I am not happy with the recommendation to fill with epoxy, re-tap, and 4200. I don't think your threads will hold up. If you determine that the threaded aluminum plate,(that is what Hatteras used for their "factory" installed hardware), is stripped, I would drill it out with a tap drill for 5/16" course and re-tap. Use mineral spirits or WD-40 for a tap lubricant. Drill a slightly larger hole in the stanchion base and use 5/16" bolts. A dab of 4200 to bed the stanchion and you should be as good as it was when it left the Hatteras factory.

 

[Banshee36]

You could also use a 1/4 x 20 helicoil thread kit. I have used them in various location when threaded holes have nbeen stripped out and they work great. The other option is to take the rail off and go for the sexy look.
JW

 

[J's Dream]

The other option is to take the rail off and go for the sexy look.
JW

I recently purchased my 45C and it unfortunatly came without the bowrail. I can tell you from personal experience that you probably do not want to go that way. It is nearly impossible to safely go forward in any chop. As nice as it may look without the rail, those guys at Hatteras put it there for a reason.

 

[REBrueckner]

Rupps suggestion to retap into metal is the right (win) way to go. If for some reason that fails, the stainless screw biting into the plate, with caulk, gets my second "place" vote. Epoxy and tapping would be my "show" bet.

 

[Trojan]

I just hope there is a plate undernieth there.

Bill

 

[Maynard Rupp]

Trojan, I can't imagine why there would not be a plate there. My '86 has them behind everything except the aftermarket stuff such as the bimini top brackets. I don't see the year of your boat but the series of those went into the mid eighties as did mine. Why would yours be any different? Have confidence, jam the 5/16" tap in there.

 

[Trojan]

My boat is a 1973 43DC.

BILL

 

[jim rosenthal]

Actually if you add aluminum powder to the epoxy, which is what's in West Systems barrier coat additive, it taps reasonably well. Also the recess in the stanchion base is the size of the bolt head of a 1/4-20 bolt, I think. The 5/16 bolt may stick up, or it may not. Make sure the bolt head will be compatible with the stanchion base before you open it up down there.
I am a bit surprised that the base plate corroded in there, although I don't doubt it. Most people I know have had problems with the bronze screws, but not the base plate. Maybe that's next for me; I hope not. Good luck with this.

 

[Trojan]

I don't know that it was corosion.It was an outside bolt and the first to snap if the previous owner hit a dock.I could remove all three screws. Rotate the base redrill and tap all three holes. If I was sure there was a plate. It the bolt did not snap flush with the plate. It's going to be a real PITA to drill and tap straight.

BILL

 

[Trojan]

Well it was 50 degrees today and I was able to get to the boat. I removed the old bolts and probed the holes. There was nothing there. Just open holes. I could find nothing that resembles a plate by probing. Further checking I find that I may be able to get to the holes under neath by removing the back of the cupboard. I hope. Plan D.

Bill

 

[jim rosenthal]

Uh oh. This sounds like your boat is built differently from mine....I would be interested to hear what you find.

 

[34Hatt]

Well I was wondering to see if you had a plate because in my 67 34C I know there are no plates at all.. I wonder when they started adding them.
So no plate's of coarse I had problems, screw's coming loose so I repaired mine the same way as Jim recommended and it worked out so far. The epoxy is pretty strong plus it seals the balsa. I lifted my rail drilled everything larger and refill with west and high density additive. If you go refilling make sure the hole is not through the bottom skin you can have a real mess if it is!

 

[Trojan]

I don't have axcess to all of the rail bolts. Just the 2 that I am in trouble with. I think,I hope. I could not find any indication of a plate underneath by probeing with a wire. The hole was straight through and open.

BILL

 

[34Hatt]

If the hole goes through and you can get to it put a piece of tape under it fill with epoxy and redrill and add a plate if you can.

 

[Traveler 45C]

You could be probing right through the plate and not feel it with the wire. To be sure, you really need to eye ball it from underneath to verify whether the plate is there or not.

 

[captddis]

They make brass inserts like what you use on drywall. They are tapped for a machine screw. You push them in the hole and tighten the screw and the body collapses and is pulled tight against the bottom of the gunwhale. Basicaly you end up with a brass nut. They are hard to find , but still made.

 

[Trojan]

Because of another project. I had to get into a area I did not plan on entering. I do know now that there are NO plates holding on the rails. Only nut and washers that sucks.


Bill