Bow Pulpit Removal/Deck Repair 2009

[Vincentc]

I removed the Galley Maid windlass and with Mambeaux's help drilled the holes for a Maxwell RC 10-8. (My deck and pulpit combined thickness is a hair under 4" and a dry run install confirms that the Maxwell will fit without an extension kit)

I cleaned out the wet/rotten coring that I could reach and have been waiting for things to dry out. In the mean time I've convinced myself of the need to remove the pulpit to be sure that all penetrations get sealed with epoxy. For one thing I noticed that the bottom level of plywood in the plywood polyester resin "sandwich" of the pulpit (not the deck) is also wet!

I started on removal this morning and ran into a few snags about the same time that a squall moved in. I've covered over everything and took a rain break. Searching the forum I discovered and printed Gensis' 2005 odessey and am going to read through that as well as a few related posts.

If anyone has any more recent experiences that might be helpful and have not been posted or do not show up under a title search for "pulpit" please let me know.

I will let you know how things go.

Regards,
Vincent
Lilly Marie
43 DC 1983

 

[REBrueckner]

Placing a 15 watt light bulb and or a small fan to help dry out coring will make a week dry out go in a day or two....a bit of aluminum foil will hold in some heat but leave an opening so hot moist air can escape....don't forget to coat the rope/chain hole with epoxy...

A layed plywood and epoxy pulpit is not so good, I discovered after making my own because it flexes and the adhesion breaks allowing moisture to enter....if you are able to repair yours I recommend adding ss angle "iron" and thru bolting to prevent the pulpit from flexing up and down due to anchor strain...an alternative is to run a diagonal length of ss handrail from the pulpit extension underside down and into your hull bow as a brace...

You'll likely think either suggestion not worth it, make your expoxy repair, and find wet layering again in a few years.....I learned, as usual, the hard way....

 

[Vincentc]

Thanks Rob,

Before I decide on how to repair, I still have to get the pulpit loose.
I went back to the boat, and worked on removing the pulpit. No Luck.
I completely removed all 6 ss bolts and found some significant core rot around the forward most bolt holes. I have removed the teak strips on each side of the pulpit. Studying the deck underside from the chain locker and also the pulpit from the top, I cannot find anything holding the pulpit in place. (There are 4 screws penetrating into the chain locker deck near the bow stem which are coming from the top but nothing is evident from the topside of the pulpit above those screw points.

The steel anchor roller frame has a death grip on the FG pulpit. It does not budge and I've ruined a wood chisel trying to slide it between the metal frame and the pulpit. I've pried the rear end of the pulpit and it will move about 1/4 inch from the deck, and acts like it is somehow screwed into the deck. I cannot find any screw heads on the top of the pulpit. Perhaps it is just 5200?

Any suggestions? Perhaps someone can tell me what I am missing before I break something.

Regards,
Vincent
Lilly Marie
43 DC 1983

 

[Traveler 45C]

Recommend contacting Hatt for the removal instructinos. They may be helpful.

There is probably lots of 5200 under there.

 

[captbuddy]

Getting ready to tackle the same project on my LRC. Can you tell me how you found the piece on Genesis. I tried to search and can't find anything. I too have soft spots in my deck I need to repair before installing my new windless.
Thanks,
captbuddy

 

[dastahl]

Capt. Buddy,
I did his job a year or so ago. The tread should come up with a seatch for "pulpit". Also email me if you have specific questions I will be happy to help. It was a very hard dirty crappy job as I ended up replacing half the core in the bow deck from under the vee bunk and anchor closet.
David
Skooch
42 LRC 1980

 

[Vincentc]

I've removed the 4 bolts from the anchor chute and two bolts from the aft corners of the pulpit. The pulpit is still firmly adhered to the deck and the chute to the pulpit. Hatteras customer service advises that there should be nothing else holding the chute to the pulpit or the pulpit to the deck, save the 5200. I am going to purchase some piano wire and attempt to saw through the adhesive between the pulpit and the deck.

I did notice that there are about 4 screw points penetrating through the underside of the deck in the chain locker at the forwardmost end of the deck coring. Any screw heads would be underneath the anchor chute. Any idea what these are?
Thanks,
Vincent
43 DC 1983 Lilly Marie

 

[fissioneng]

Hatteras customer service advises that there should be nothing else holding the chute to the pulpit or the pulpit to the deck, save the 5200. I am going to purchase some piano wire and attempt to saw through the adhesive between the pulpit and the deck.

I have had good luck using Anti Bond 2015 which dissolves the 5200, but you need LOTS of patience to push it into the seam you're trying to part and then waiting for it to work. Heat will also soften 5200 but you need to be careful with that method.

You can buy Anti Bond at West Marine.

 

[captbuddy]

David,
I sent you a PM.
captbuddy

 

[Vincentc]

Update,
$5 worth of adhesive remover, (white 8 oz bottle with red top from Lowes), and a couple of putty knives hammered slowly between the anchor chute and the pulpint released the 5200 grip. It took less than an hour of persuasion.

Regarding the pulpit attachment, I am inclined to agree with Genesis. In addition to the 6 bolts, there are screws holding the pulpit to the deck. I have hacksawed 3 so far, after prying up the aft end of the pulpit as much as I could. I have not encountered any kind of adhesive or caulk yet between the pulpit and the deck. It appears that the bottom layer of the pulpit is simply plywood. There was a bead of caulk around the perimeter of the pulpit but after 25 years, the caulk contributes little to keeping water out. Any way, water appears to have had excellent access through the windlass and pulpit bolt holes.

Suggestions on how to cut screws that are 6" or more from the edges of the pulpit will be appreciated.

Regards,
Vincent
Lilly Marie
43 DC 1983

 

[rrrestorer]

Sawzall with a long blade.

 

[bigbill]

hacksaw blade with a pair of vise grips as the handle. bigbill

 

[Vincentc]

The screws are at least 4" from the edge of the pulpit and the with of the saw will probably require another inch of blade length. I thought 6" was all there was until I expanded my tool search from the home improvement chain to a local contractor supply store and found 12" sawzall blades. I bought a pack and will try that out.

I had not thought about using a vice grip as a hacksaw blade handle.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Regards,
Vincent
Lilly Marie
43 DC 1983

 

[doc g]

If you can get to the heads of the screws lop them off with a chisel,then use vise grips to get them out after you remove the top section........Pat

 

[Vincentc]

I've gone around the rear and both sides of the pulpit at deck level with a 12" sawzall blade. I located and removed the 4 screws that were under the anchor chute going down through the pulpit near the bow stem, yet the pulpit will only lift up about 3/8" at the aft end.

It is beyond me what is holding the pulpit to the deck.

Vincent
Lilly Marie
43 DC 1983

 

[Traveler 45C]

Can you tell me how you found the piece on Genesis.

Found it, on page 377.
!@?!?!?@?$?!@ Anchor Pulpit teak inlays!
http://www.samsmarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=755

 

[Vincentc]

Went back to the boat, removed the wedges I inserted between the deck and the pulpit at the aft end and pushed up on the forward end of the pulpit, the pulpit gave up before my arms did. It is free from the deck.
I Did not have the time or energy to take the pulpit off the boat and have not inspected the underside yet to determine just what was holding it to the boat.

Regards,
Vincent
Lilly Marie
43 DC 1983

 

[captbuddy]

Thanks Traveler. Spent most of the morning studying. Could not get last two pages up this morning. Will try this afternoon. Good info though.
Thanks again,
captbuddy

 

[Traveler 45C]

They worked for me. Let me know if ya' don't get them.

 

[Vincentc]

I have not finished the project but have reached some conclusion regarding pulpit attachment / removal, and would like to pass on some of what I've learned.

I am convinced that Hatteras, not someone else screwed a 2 layer plywood pad onto the deck then placed the fiberglass pulpit on top of the pad and bolted the assembly down with 6 stainless bolts, 4 through the anchor chute and 2 in the aft corners of the pulpit. All screws in the plywood were square drive bronze, consistent with OEM. The polyester paste noted below is similar to what is found in many other concealed places on the boat.

The plywood was not sealed or painted and after 26 years the pad was about 20 % deteriorated, primarily at the sides and front of the plywood. It appears that the factory positioned the 1.5" thick plywood pad with about 8 screws, some along the side and some in the middle of the pad. (A 12" sawzall blade will not reach all the screws). The pad is held in place with screws alone, there is no indication of any bedding between the plywood and the deck. The plywood was given a thick coat of polyester resin/paste on top and the pulpit pressed down, (oreo like) on top of and around the pad. The paste filled the space between the plywood and the pulpit. The perimeter of the pulpit has sealant however it has not, for some time, stopped water from going under the pulpit and through the deck penetrations created by the 6 bolt holes and numerous screw holes.

The balsa core was not sealed, much less epoxy filled in the area of the penetrations and there is significant balsa deterioration. The aluminum backing plates for the stainless bolts had a significant amount of corrosion in the form of pitting and white powder where the plates rest against the underside of the deck. All this is in the anchor chain locker and fortunately accessible.

I have been drilling 3/4' diameter holes through the deck underside in order to access the bad core. I am working my way out from the penetrations and stopping when I reach sound core. The holes are on 2 to 3" centers. I am using an allen wrench with an electric drill to dig out the bad core and a shop vac to suck out the balsa debris.

Evidently the penetrations for the bow cleats were not sealed either and Lilly Marie has bad core in those areas as well.

Once the bad core is cleaned out and dry, I intend to apply a couple of layers of FG biaxial cloth to the deck underside to cover all of my access holes. I believe I can use plywood covered with plastic sheeting as a mold to hold the FG and epoxy (with a filled epoxy paste on top) to the underside of the deck until it all sets up. I will then fill the deck voids with filled epoxy through the upper deck penetrations.

Hatteras customer service was very kind but not very knowledgeable re "vintage" boat construction when he told me the pulpit was only attached with caulk and stainless bolts. After my experience with the window frames, I should not have expected that the factory would seal the deck penetrations through the balsa core any differently in the area of the pulpit than they did not seal them in the area of the salon windows.

I cannot speak with certainty regarding the bow cleat penetrations as I have not removed either of them yet, but the coring around the port cleat is gone and there is no evidence of any hard filler in the cored area where the cleat is attached. Considering the stress put on the bow cleats this apparent attachment to a cored deck which is likely to deteriorate does not seem consistent with Hatteras standards.

I would recommend that anyone with a 25+ year old boat who has not inspected the deck above the anchor chain locker, crawl up in there and poke around. I have several photos if anyone is interested, but have not had time to reduce them to posting size.

Regards,
Vincent
Lilly Marie
43 DC 1983