Reefgeorge
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 31, 2010
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- OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
- Hatteras Model
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If you have the older Cruisair E(H)BO style air handler(s)/evaporator(s) and they are 10+ years old then you may have an electric blower motor that has seized or is screaching. Oiling the bearing hole helps for a short while but the motor will eventually start overheating and shutting down via the thermal protection feature. This evaporator and/or blower is no longer available so you are left with the prospect of buying a new evaporator and possibly some retrofit work since the new designs have a different form factor.
If the only thing wrong with unit is the motor, you can replace it. If you also use electronic SMX style controls, the motor type is important because the triac motor speed control was designed to drive a shaded pole motor as is in your evaporator. If you have searched for equivalent motors by looking up the frame style, amp draw, voltage, etc you probably came across a Dayton or equivalent but it is not a shaded pole design and may not work correctly. It turns out that the proper motor is still used in a full blower unit (motor, squirrel cage, and housing) sold into the wood furnace market. It is a Fasco B45227-2. The motor is a shaded pole, 0.93 amp, 220V, 1650 rpm motor of the correct frame size and stud arrangement. It goes for around $95 from a number of suppliers such as Amazon. It took me about a month of calls and research to find this perfect replacement so I hope this helps out more people who need this simple repair.
You back out the set screw on the blower cage, remove the motor stud nuts, back out the motor and do the reverse in the old housing. If the old blower cage is frozen or if the old housing is badly corroded then you can use the new housing with the screen removed because it is the same. You will just have to get some self adhesive foam sheets to cover the new housing or tear the old stuff off and glue it on. $95 and 2 hours work and your back in business. My first motor replacement has been dealing with the entire Florida summer with no issues.
If the only thing wrong with unit is the motor, you can replace it. If you also use electronic SMX style controls, the motor type is important because the triac motor speed control was designed to drive a shaded pole motor as is in your evaporator. If you have searched for equivalent motors by looking up the frame style, amp draw, voltage, etc you probably came across a Dayton or equivalent but it is not a shaded pole design and may not work correctly. It turns out that the proper motor is still used in a full blower unit (motor, squirrel cage, and housing) sold into the wood furnace market. It is a Fasco B45227-2. The motor is a shaded pole, 0.93 amp, 220V, 1650 rpm motor of the correct frame size and stud arrangement. It goes for around $95 from a number of suppliers such as Amazon. It took me about a month of calls and research to find this perfect replacement so I hope this helps out more people who need this simple repair.
You back out the set screw on the blower cage, remove the motor stud nuts, back out the motor and do the reverse in the old housing. If the old blower cage is frozen or if the old housing is badly corroded then you can use the new housing with the screen removed because it is the same. You will just have to get some self adhesive foam sheets to cover the new housing or tear the old stuff off and glue it on. $95 and 2 hours work and your back in business. My first motor replacement has been dealing with the entire Florida summer with no issues.