Block head with block heaters

[Seas the Moment]

I have done my due diligence and researched posts from all of you on this site, ( Love it BTW! Awesome info) and purchased KIM Hotsart block heaters for my 8v92TIs on my 58MY. They are model DDV-151B s. They are immersion block heaters with a plate and four holes. I can't for the life of me figure out where they go.

Instruction say and I quote "Detroit Diesel V71 and V92 Series: Replaces four bolt water jacket access plate at front of cylinder bank on left side of engine." HUH?

Any of you install these block heaters on your 92s? I am hell bent to get this done this weekend. Any help would be apreciated.

Thanks,
Loran

 

[captddis]

The plate goes behind the alternator bracket. Return them and get the heater that has a 3/4 pipe thread and screws into the elbow above the oil cooler.

 

[Seas the Moment]

Thanks. I think I found the unit you mention...DD8L-101. I apreciate the help.

 

[GJH]

Captddis is correct as usual.

I'll try to post a picture later today. Get one with the thermostat if you can; they should be able to tell you exactly how to install before you buy. Either call the Kim people or switch to Zerostart and call them. Thermostat may require another tap as my pics will indicate, but is worth it; saves unplugging them or switching on and off.

 

[GJH]

Here are some pics:

Heater branch:

Thermostat branch:

 

[Seas the Moment]

Thanks, George for the pix. I take it that pic 2 is the heating element and pic 3 is the thermostat? Actually, I read on this forum where someone ran the voltage line into a "greenhouse thermostat" and mounted that in each ER. I bought a couple of Dayton (model 4LZ94A) nema 4 rated thermostats. This way I can control the temp of the ERs via the block heater. They won't come on until "X" ambient degrees. The individual then wired them into a three way switch for each block heater with a red led panel for each. So, he can switch them into heat mode, or off mode or thermostat mode, all from the pilothouse. The red LED lights when they are in heat mode or when the thermostat kicks them on. Seems like a neat setup.

BTW, snowing right now in Gloucester Point, VA... how is the weather in New Bern? However, my guess is that you are somewhere south of 32.776N.

 

[GJH]

Yes.

I suppose you could do all that. My primary goal is to keep the engines warm. This keeps the top end including cylinder block at about 100 degrees and by proximity the oil pan at about 75. My newly installed Wolverine pan heater on my genset does just the reverse; personally I like this heat distribution better.
Each is on its own breaker. In addition to their engine duties, they really keep the ERs warm and dry, and with the doors open, the lower deck too, especially with the ER vents sealed off ( just use a bunch of big towels).

I understand that not all engines can accommodate this set up.

 

[Seas the Moment]

Thanks George. My engine will accomodate this type heater...exact setup as yours. Do I need to drain all of the coolant when using the immersion block heater at the 3/4" plug? BTW, I think it has been 30+ years since that plug was taken out. Looks like a 1/2" square drive breaker bar may be needed? Any coaching on breaking that bad boy loose?

Loran

 

[davidwigler]

What are the chances of successfully breaking 4 of those bad boys loose (heaters and thermostats) on 34 year old 8v71s with no damage?

 

[Seas the Moment]

I went to harbor freight and bought a 1/2" breaker bar and it was a breeze to break them loose on 31 year old engines.

 

[REBrueckner]

My 1972 Hatt 48 YF came with immersion block heaters and air control thermostats...which were activated from engine room abient air temperature. The whole set up worked just fine for the 11 years I owned her.

Because of the expense of electricity, about 25 cents per KWH in NY, I did not leave those on much instead using diesel heat in the cold weather. So I rewired each block heater individually to a dedicated circuit breaker: that way I could flip them on and off at the electric panel and in about 1/2 hour to 45 minutes get a clean fast start.

Also, be absolutely positive you mount them where recommended....if colder coolant cannot circulate and cool the heaters via coolant movement the coolant will boil at the heater and the heater will burn out quickly. I found this from talking with my (very trusted) mechanic about one engine where they installed block heaters, burned up three trying to get them operating properly, and even though they supposedly had them in the recommended manufactuer location, apparently gave up on that job.