Ball valves needed for main intakes

[J's Dream]

I am planning on hauling out in August, and will be replacing my ball valves on the main engine intakes. The ones I have now are original (I think) and are the gate valves which are now seized open. No matter how much Blaster I spray them with they don't budge...and I'm not brave enough to tap them with anything, so.....I would like to replace them with 90 degree ball valves. I am almost positive they are 3" diameter...They are in a '69 45C, and my intake hoses are 3" diameter. Does anyone have any ideas where to find these relatively inexpensive? Thanks, Jason

 

[wndsr]

I replaced mine this past winter. They were Appollo's and were readily available. Although mine were straight and not 90 deg. As I recall, the best price at the time was $180.00 each from Defender-but check around because most major supply houses carry Appollo. They were triangular base with the typical 3 bolt pattern.
Hope this helps.

 

[J's Dream]

Thanks for the info. What I have now are the straight ball valves inline, above the thru-hull (with female pipe threads on both ends), and I don't think I want to revamp the entire system if I don't have to.
Thanks,
Jason

 

[Genesis]

What you SHOULD have are Seacocks, and if you don't have them, you SHOULD fix that. Like immediately.

 

[J's Dream]

What you SHOULD have are Seacocks, and if you don't have them, you SHOULD fix that. Like immediately.

Karl,

Here's what I have....maybe my description was bad, or maybe the setup is, you tell me. Below the hull is the scoop intake coming up into the engine room. The top of the scoop intake is a threaded fitting that's threaded into a straight gate valve(to close it is like a garden hose, like 4 full turns or so to close it). On the top of the gate valve is another threaded fitting going into the strainer, and then from there into the raw water pump. Is this bad? I have seen a couple different setups, and don't really know which is better and why. I'm coming out in August and would like to do it right. Thanks,
Jason

 

[Genesis]

Yes, that's bad.

What you should have is a through-hull (with a scoop outside or as part of it, as you wish) which has STRAIGHT threads on the end of it. To that one screws a SEACOCK, which is a ball valve that has a flange on the bottom, typically with a triangular shape.

The seacock is screwed down to where it contacts the hull and then the three holes are drilled through and the valve through-bolted (through the bottom of the hull.) The resulting assembly is extremely strong - which of course is the idea as keeping the water outside where it belongs is the entire point.....

A straight ball valve on top of the through-hull relies on the through-hull's integrity - which is vastly inferior to a proper seacock.

If you're coming out to do this, do it correctly.

 

[J's Dream]

Well...Looks like I'll do it right. Do you think the existing thru-hulls should be or have to be replaced? Or will a seacock thread onto them? I'm not opposed to ripping everything apart and replacing it all, but if I don't have to, that'd be OK too.

Is my setup how it was from the fectory?

Jason

 

[Bertramp]

out of curiousity, what is your hull # ?
I have a 1970 and my number is 45C360.

 

[Genesis]

The seacocks should thread onto the existing through-hulls. BUT - after this much time, check them CAREFULLY. If there's any indication of them being degraded change 'em while you're at it and its (relatively) easy.

 

[J's Dream]

out of curiousity, what is your hull # ?
I have a 1970 and my number is 45C360.

Mine is a 1969 45C332.

 

[briangct]

Replace the thru-hull fittings because you will have to cut the old ones or new ones to the proper length in order for the flange on the seacock to properly mate with the hull. Cutting them accurately in place will be difficult at best. You will need to factor in the thickness of the hull, the backing plate and the thread depth inside the seacock, then make your cut with the thru-hull in a vise using a sawzall. I run the backing nut (upside down) that comes with the thru-hull fitting down the threads to the cut line and use it as a guide for the saw blade and then when removed it will chase the threads. Additionally, when buying your seacocks ensure they are FULL-FLOW.

Brian Gaynier