Any Yamaha PWC Owners Out There?

[Freebird]

I just purchased a '92 Boston Whaler 14 Rage to use as a tender (or is that dingy?) for my 58TC. By the way, when does a dingy become a tender or vice-versa. Don't want to call this thing by the wrong name. Anyhow, this Whaler has the same engine/jet-drive as a 1992 Yamaha 650 Waverunner III. When I sea trialed this little feller', it wouldn't come up to full rpm. This helped in the negotiation phase, and I knew it couldn't be anything serious. When I got it home, I tried replacing the fuel filter, no luck. I had read in the owner's manual that there was an overheat sensor that would limit the engine to 3,000rpm. The boat doesn't have a tach, but that sounded about right. I called Boston Whaler who said they couldn't tell me anything about the powerplant, only the boat itself. They suggested I call Yamaha. I called Yamaha in Kalifornya (if I don't stop spellin' in Southern, I'm gonna blow up the spell checker on my cumpooter) and they told me to call Boston Whaler. I told them I'd been there, done that. Then they told me to call their Kennesaw, GA plant. Good, I can talk southern to those boys and we can git 'er done! I called Kennesaw, their voice mail told me to call Kalifornya for anything other than outboards. I called Kalifornya again. They told me to ignore the recording and talk to a real person in Kennesaw. Got a real person in Kennesaw who told me to call Kalifornya. Startin' to get the picture here? Bottom line is, I'm still waiting for someone from Kalifornya to call me back with the answer to what I thought was a simple question: Can you by-pass this sensor to test it? Duh, how hard could that be? So far, the local Yamaha dealer can't answer that question, nor can the manufacturer at this point! I can order a new plug-in sensor on-line for about 70 bucks. But I'd rather not waste the money if this is not the problem. Hep?

 

[Capt K]

Why don't you see if you can order a shop manual instead?

 

[Freebird]

Don't know that it would tell me how to check the sensor. If I can't get an answer on this, I'll just buy a new sensor as I am 99% sure this is the problem. By the way, does Capt K stand for Capt Krunch? Thanks for the reply.

 

[Genesis]

I have a Yam PWC, but its an 1100 WaveVenture.

The overheat sensor may well be the problem.... I have a shop manual for the 1100; let me see if I can find it (been quite a while since I've needed it...)

 

[Freebird]

Thanks for the reply. There has to be a way to test this thing. It's a plug in module with only 2 wires, one male, one female. I tried unplugging the sensor, and plugging these two wires into each other thinking that might work if the sensor worked by breaking the circuit. It didn't like that too much. The engine started missing, so I unplugged the wires again. The engine runs the same with the sensor removed. Still can't believe the Yamaha folks can't (won't) tell me what to do.

 

[dwaynec]

Randy, Could it be because they are missplaced New Yorkers?

 

[Freebird]

Randy, Could it be because they are missplaced New Yorkers?

You know, I hadn't thought about that. I'll bet it's a dang conspiracy.

 

[Pascal]

the first thing i always make sure i get is teh service manual for whatever engine / machinery i have... genset, engines, etc... without it, there isn't much you can do. having a wiring driagram is a must...

this is the best $50 you can spend or whatever the cost is...

 

[Freebird]

I have the original owner's manual which shows wiring diagrams. It's a very simple straightforward set-up. Isolating the sensor was no problem nor was removing it. I simply can't get anyone to tell me how to test it.

 

[Pascal]

the wring diagram should give you a clue has to how it's wired, the switch either opens or close when the set temp is reached so it either connects or disconnects the circuit.

why don't you find a forum for yamaha PWC ? there has to be one on line, I'm sure you can search their archives and find the answer.

 

[Freebird]

Thanks again for the reply. Maybe I'll do a little surfin' and see if I can find some Yamaha folks. This switch consists of a cynlindrical sensor that fits into the top of the head (dry). Seems to me if it opened the circuit when activated, you could by-pass it by removing it altogether. If it closes the circuit, taking it out of the loop and connecting the leads would by-pass it. I've tried it both ways, but neither way works. I'm no electrical engineer, but there has to be a simple way to test this switch. There's just apparently no simple way to find out how.

 

[67hat34c]

i have seadoo pwc's old and new ones.
I am guessing by the age of yours that it is carburated and a typicaly simple design. On my newer seadoo there are 2 kill switch keys, they have a computer chip in them one key is for break in and it limits the thing to about 30mph the other key will let it run wide open, not sure if yours has this set up or not but that is one thing to check.

does it miss or sputter? and is the throttle linkage allowing WOT?(stole that from Mike) The carbs may be gummed up, they are easy to rebuild, i have done 10 sets of Mikkuni's in the last few years, mine and friends.

pull the plugs and note how they are burning. make sure all are firing etc.

 

[Freebird]

i have seadoo pwc's old and new ones.
I am guessing by the age of yours that it is carburated and a typicaly simple design. On my newer seadoo there are 2 kill switch keys, they have a computer chip in them one key is for break in and it limits the thing to about 30mph the other key will let it run wide open, not sure if yours has this set up or not but that is one thing to check.

does it miss or sputter? and is the throttle linkage allowing WOT?(stole that from Mike) The carbs may be gummed up, they are easy to rebuild, i have done 10 sets of Mikkuni's in the last few years, mine and friends.

pull the plugs and note how they are burning. make sure all are firing etc.

Thanks for the info. This engine is carburated, and it's not oil injected either. No chip on the key. There is no miss or sputter. It purrs like a kitten right up to the point it runs out of rpm. Throttle linkage goes all the way to WFO, but the engine doesn't. I can reverse the thrust and cavitate the impeller to higher rpm, but the minute I throw it forward, it runs into that limiter again. It's a 2 cylinder, so if one wasn't firing, it would be real obvious. Still think it's that damn heat sensor, but I guess I'm too cheap to order one until I exhaust my search for how to bypass and test it. I know nobody takes returns on electrical parts.