Anti seize?

[thoward]

After a complete removal/tear-down for cleaning and paint, it is time to reassemble the heat exchangers. Is it wise/recomended to use an anti-seize compound on all the bolts.

 

[workingonadream]

if they are stainless you should not need to. if they are not you could replace the bolts with stainless ones or clean the old ones and use the anti-sieze. either way i have not heard anything against using anti-sieze

 

[MikeP]

The one thing to consider re anti-sieze is that it acts as a lubricant. SO, for relevant assemblies, torque readings may be skewed due to the lubricating properties. IOW, if a fitting's spec is for clean/dry assembly, using anti seize results in the actual torque on the fitting being approx 30% higher than what the torque wrench reads.

It is quite possible to strip the threads/break a bolt if consideration is not given to whether the fastener is supposed to be tightened clean/dry or lubricated and, if lubricated, what lubricant is specified since various lubricants have more/less effect.


Admittedly, non critical fasteners are usually fine if they are just snug. But everybody has a different feel for that. I had a friend who consistently broke bolts because his idea of "tight" was whatever a 1/2" drive socket set could apply, regardless of the fastener size.

 

[dsharp]

I wouldn't use stainless bolts in the aluminum housing. They have a tendency to grow together plus the quality of stainless fasteners seems to be all over the place. I got in the habit of using anti seize on everything.

 

[rsmith]

After a complete removal/tear-down for cleaning and paint, it is time to reassemble the heat exchangers. Is it wise/recomended to use an anti-seize compound on all the bolts.

NOOOOOOOO unless its the maine grade!!!!! The regular stuff has a bunch of dissimilar metals ground up that can CAUSE corrosion.

 

[sgharford]

I just finished rebuilding a 1976 15 HP Evinrude head to toe over the winter that had probably seen its entire life in salt water. It was rebuilt before in late 90's, and whoever did it (34Hat?) used gorilla snot, aka Mercruiser Perfect Seal, aka permatex "aviation form a gasket" on all the threads which allowed all the bolts to come straight out without twisting off a single head. I used it to reassemble the entire engine.

In researching what this stuff was, I found out its the preferred anti-seize for bolts on marine engines, and I'll vouch it works. Problem with real anti-seize is it's actually a hodge-podge of different metals mixed into a paste that can make for allot corrosion in a marine environment.

 

[thoward]

NOOOOOOOO unless its the maine grade!!!!! The regular stuff has a bunch of dissimilar metals ground up that can CAUSE corrosion.

For the most part, I use the Copper anti-seize but was concerned about galvanic reaction. I didn't see anything in the DD manual. I will do some more research on the "form a gasket". May be best just to put a little grease on them and call it a day.

 

[rsmith]

For the most part, I use the Copper anti-seize but was concerned about galvanic reaction. I didn't see anything in the DD manual. I will do some more research on the "form a gasket". May be best just to put a little grease on them and call it a day.

Apple supply on Orange ave Ft Pierce has the marine grade stuff. I use the Flamingo oil salt water proof grease.

 

[rsmith]

http://www.pinkbird.com/webpage.nsf

 

[MikeP]

"Mercruiser Perfect Seal,"

Good stuff. I use it for 90% of all the gasket/sealing purposes on our 53. It's a much better product for such purpose that the silicone crap that everyone seems to prefer nowadays. The number of times I have used silicone sealants on our boat (or any engine assembly - car/boat/motorcycle) could easily be counted on one hand...and four of those would be for the boat's shower stalls.

 

[bostonhatteras]

if they are stainless you should not need to. if they are not you could replace the bolts with stainless ones or clean the old ones and use the anti-sieze. either way i have not heard anything against using anti-sieze

In my experience this advise is wrong. Stainless steel has a nasty habit of galling, or in other words, shedding metal which clogs the threads permanently. Once a stainless bolt has galled it is nearly impossible to get out. Anti sieze is good for use on any common fastener and hose connections. I know many mechanics that use it religiously. Also permatex #2 is an excellent sealant but is non hardening so can also be used with the bolt threads at the same time enabling you to use the same sealant for thread sealant/lubricant too. Personal choice on that. Never put in stainless fasteners dry.

 

[rsmith]

+2 on the gauling but it seems to happen more stainless to stainless. Also on the permatex#2

 

[krush]

Stainless to stainless or any material that has high chromium content has a very strong chance of galling in my experience. Like mentioned, once they seize, they ain't coming apart. I had some brand new parts on a steam turbine seize up when we were just HAND TIGHTENING them! And we used tons of anti-seize.

 

[34Hatt]

I just finished rebuilding a 1976 15 HP Evinrude head to toe over the winter that had probably seen its entire life in salt water. It was rebuilt before in late 90's, and whoever did it (34Hat?) used gorilla snot, aka Mercruiser Perfect Seal, aka permatex "aviation form a gasket" on all the threads which allowed all the bolts to come straight out without twisting off a single head. I used it to reassemble the entire engine.

In researching what this stuff was, I found out its the preferred anti-seize for bolts on marine engines, and I'll vouch it works. Problem with real anti-seize is it's actually a hodge-podge of different metals mixed into a paste that can make for allot corrosion in a marine environment.

Learned that from my Buddys down at Whitewater marine service Those Guys are some of the best around.

 

[Mike36c]

I vote for Tef-gel for all applications, stainless on stainless, lower unit bolts etc. anything I want to come apart later. Non hardening and not hydroscopic. I also use it as lube when I re-assemble my aftercoolers, they look as new each year. Good stuff..

 

[rsmith]

I vote for Tef-gel for all applications, stainless on stainless, lower unit bolts etc. anything I want to come apart later. Non hardening and not hydroscopic. I also use it as lube when I re-assemble my aftercoolers, they look as new each year. Good stuff..

Never used it but have heard good things. Very expensive and hard to come by.

 

[saltshaker]

My local West Marine usually has it but they're very proud of the stuff. The 2oz tub is about $40 and the tiny syringe is about $25. Jamestown sells the 2oz tub for about $25. I've seen it in a tube for a caulk gun for something crazy like $175.

 

[bostonhatteras]

I got the syringe of tefgel when I bought all my bilge pump switches. Used it once. Been sitting there ever since. Now that you mention it I guess it's dead weight I can take off the boat!

 

[kwerges]

X2 on Tefgel. Use it religiously on all re-assemblies...

 

[GJH]

X2 on Tefgel. Use it religiously on all re-assemblies...

X3. Terrific for any dissimilar metal matings, especially where stainless is involved, such as stainless to aluminum in particular. A little goes a long way, so why not use the best?

On a side note, when we re-did my muffler hose-fitting tubes, Bruce Morrison used Permatex #2 on the hose to pipe fit, being 10" hose, we used quite a bit of it but he swore by it for high temp fittings like that, and lessing the need to tighten the clamps super tight, which cause the problem of crushed tubes in the first place. I have to get around to posting that project sometime.