lumina
Legendary Member
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2007
- Messages
- 1,388
- Status
- OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
- Hatteras Model
- 48' YACHT FISHERMAN (1972 - 1975)
Hi All,
We've had several projects underway for the last 18+ months and I thought I’d share some with you. This was all accomplished by me in damned spite of all my health issues, my mate Brendan a 24 year old physics major and at times an extra pair of hands (thanks Tony). Images will follow in a day or two as subsequent posts to this thread.
Here are the first 12 projects:
1. We completely re-bedded the fly bridge. It was a huge amount lot of work, but it was something I wanted to do since we bought her back in 2007. First, we removed all the fasteners. Then using a large oscillating dremmel I was able to insert a cutting blade in-between the old bedding material and the deck and the fly bridge. Once it was completely separated, we used hard plastic shims to raise the fly bridge appx ½ an inch. We then went thru the incredibly laborious process of completely removing all of the old bedding on the fly bridge deck and fly bridge lip (an industrial hot knife helped). Once that was removed we thoroughly cleaned both surfaces with acetone, then sanded both surfaces with 150 grit, then vacuumed and re cleaned the surfaces with acetone. We then applied 5200 to the deck (sorry next owner), removed the shims one at a time adding bedding in their place as we went and added positioning screws to ensure proper seating. Then we filled all 180 screw holes with 4200 and set about screwing down the fly bridge with new stainless screws and finish washers. We removed the seat stations and did them as well. Then came the massive clean-up. I had 3M EVERYWHERE.
After we were done we sat there exhausted. My mate looked at me and after a while said “you know what; we should re-bed everything on the fly bridge”. I almost pitched him off, then said what the he$$, so we removed everything screwed down, with a very few exceptions, cleaned and prepped the surfaces and re-bedded them all using 4200 with new stainless screws etc. This included the aluminum trim that runs around the outer edge of the fly bridge (177 screws). It also included male canvas snaps and male canvas twist locks, vent covers, antenna mounts, rail bases etc etc.
2. On a rebidding rampage we decided to tackle the teak hand rail that runs from the helm to the bow. We removed each rail station, completely removed all old bedding from the station and the deck, sanded, prepped and re-bedded each with 5200 (again sorry next owner), and all new stainless screws. It took us several days. And yet again my mate said “why stop here, let’s do everything screwed to the deck”. After someone pried my hands from around his neck I said what the he$$. So if it was screwed down, with a very few exceptions, it was removed, cleaned prepped, re-bedded and re-attached with all new stainless screws. This included strakes, dodger hardware, salon rails, male canvas snaps and male canvas twist locks, deck box mounts, cleats, and chocks etc etc.
3. Then we went on a teak binge. We completely refurbished the fly bridge teak doors and frames, which included re-bending the doors into flat pieces (soaking and adding ¼” metal backing strips) as well as all other teak mounting plates etc. Everything was stripped, sanded, stained, sealed with penetrating epoxy and finished with 5 coats of Bristol Finish. Everything was re-assembled and all new stainless hardware and screws were used.
4. Next we removed the fly bridge front bench seat and replaced it with a custom mahogany bench made from individual mahogany boards biscuit cut, glued and pressed together. It was stained, sealed with penetrating epoxy and finished with 5 coats of Bristol finish. It was re-designed to give folks more room when sitting up there and to assure proper complete drainage of rain water or ocean spray.
5. We then decided we didn’t like the aluminum flat trim that was around every hatch in the helm and the fly bridge. I ordered heartwood aged teak from a source in FL, fully milled and ready for cutting and assembly. We removed the hatches then the aluminum trim, cut the new teak trim, stained, and sealed them with penetrating epoxy and finished with 5 coats of Bristol finish, then attached them to the hatches and re-hung the hatches using all new stainless bolts and lock washers (appx 160) and piano hinge.
6. The experience with the teak supplier was so good I suggested we make teak front deck box covers. I talked to the supplier in FL and ordered the individual aged heartwood teak boards cut to size (W&L.) We biscuit cut, glued and pressed them together then routered, stained, sealed with penetrating epoxy and finished with 5 coats of Bristol finish. We adhered them to the deck boxes with 5200 and stainless screws which were finished with teak bungs. While we were at it we added new stainless piano hinge on each box using new stainless bolts and lock washers.
7. That worked out so well we decided to add a teak bench cover to the large bench under the front salon windows.. I talked to the supplier in FL and ordered the individual aged heartwood teak boards. This time cut to a template of the bench that we supplied (bench has many angles) He sent the wood back with each board numbered in sequence for assembly. We biscuit cut, glued and pressed them together then routered, stained, sealed with penetrating epoxy and finished with 5 coats of Bristol finish. We adhered them to the salon bench with 5200 and stainless screws which were finished with teak bungs.
8. Our attention turned next to the aluminum rub-rail that encircles the boat as well as the large aluminum strake that runs from the stern to appx amidships. Since I bought her that rub rail has made me crazy. Every spring we spent 3 days cleaning and buffing these rails so that they looked presentable. I looked into all of the alternatives and decided to go with painting them. Sounds simple, but it’s not (ask me how I know). We decided to use the Walter Quick Step process to gradually remove years of clouding, pitting etc until we had a clean smooth finish. We then etched all of the rails, and then primed them. We sanded the primer and added 3 coats of Rustoleum Industrial spray paint. A perfect color match for natural aluminum. My thinking here was it would be way easier to touch up the paint every now and then vs 3 hard days of work every spring for unsatisfactory results. So far so good. It came out great and has held to fenders ropes etc.
9. While admiring the new teak deck box covers and teak salon bench we thought “wouldn't it be nice if the forward deck hatch light panel would let in more light, brightening up the fwd stateroom. We looked at the options and ended up deciding to cut out the existing “yellow opaque” panel with a dremmel. We then built a 3/8th inner frame for the new glass to sit on. We selected a high UV lightly tinted polycarbonate product. We took the hatch to the glazer and they installed the polycarbonate with an adhesive they “guaranteed” never to leak. It came out really well. Before we re-attached the hatch we decided to re-enforce the hatch back rim and re-attach the hatch with all new stainless screws and piano hinge. We also reconditioned the built in air vent as well.
10. Admiring the new hatch we thought about how nice it would be if the FWD stateroom had a ladder to make it easier to exit thru the hatch to the forward deck. A yard mate had a 6 step stainless rail ladder with 1” thick teak treads. We cut the treads so each step was appx 8 inches wide. We re-drilled the rail holes on the cut edge and used a router to cut out the area for the stainless bracket. I had the top ends of the rails re-bent into a tighter hook to rest on the upper bunk. Finished the teak treads, polished the stainless, added new rubber feet and re-assembled it. Works great (p.s. had to reverse the hinges on the hatch screen panel so it opened away from the ladder not toward it).
11. While preparing the bottom and running gear for paint, I kept looking at the mahogany splash rails. I knew there were a couple of soft spots so I started poking. Bad idea. I found moderate rot on the stb rail and minor rot on the port. I looked everywhere for access to the bolts holding them on but nothing. I considered a saws-all then I decided there was too much solid wood for something so drastic. I ended up leaving them on the boat and eviscerating all of the affected wood using a combination of, you guessed it, a dremmel, chisels, scrapers and saws. I let them dry out for 3 weeks in the sun. Next I applied a liberal coat of penetrating epoxy (git-rot in this case) several times in close succession to allow for maximum penetration and then let it fully cure. I lightly sanded the surface of the exposed wood and the hull, then re-built the splash rails using thickened epoxy and cardboard molds. A lot of sanding and faring later I ran a bead of 5200 around a bevel I left against the hull. We then primed and painted the splash rails with bright side primer and 4208 Hatteras off white. Looks great, but I couldn't just put back the old stainless trim so I replaced it with new stainless trim and screws bedded with 4200.
12. Well, by now I was afraid to look at any part of the boat. But I did
. I figured while we were down there we might as well remove and re-bed the swim platform brackets. Easier said than done. There is almost no access to the bolts that hold them to the transom, and after years of out of sight out of mind the nuts/washers pretty well seized to the bolts. After much coaxing and bad words, and after cutting a couple with an angle grinder, all 6 brackets were removed. Each bracket was cleaned down to the stainless and the hull locations were cleaned and sanded. I can confirm that our transoms are cored, mine with foam, and are solid beginning at mid boot stripe (appx). The brackets were remounted with 5200 and using new stainless bolts, lock nuts and washers. The swim platform (which had a few coats of Bristol added while it was off) was re-attached with all new stainless bolts/nuts and washers. Here comes the first real “OH SHIT” moment. Even though we numbered the brackets and the transom, we somehow, even though we checked 3 times, reversed 2 brackets so those two did not completely align with the swim platform bolt holes….Oh Crap !!! I was going to correct it immediately, but by then several days had passed so we just figured there’s no real loss of structural integrity, so it was added to next year’s project list.
Interestingly enough, the small amount of water that always sat in the lazerette has not returned this year, it’s dry as a bone. (My suspicion being that the splash rails and swim platform brackets were the sources).
We've had several projects underway for the last 18+ months and I thought I’d share some with you. This was all accomplished by me in damned spite of all my health issues, my mate Brendan a 24 year old physics major and at times an extra pair of hands (thanks Tony). Images will follow in a day or two as subsequent posts to this thread.
Here are the first 12 projects:
1. We completely re-bedded the fly bridge. It was a huge amount lot of work, but it was something I wanted to do since we bought her back in 2007. First, we removed all the fasteners. Then using a large oscillating dremmel I was able to insert a cutting blade in-between the old bedding material and the deck and the fly bridge. Once it was completely separated, we used hard plastic shims to raise the fly bridge appx ½ an inch. We then went thru the incredibly laborious process of completely removing all of the old bedding on the fly bridge deck and fly bridge lip (an industrial hot knife helped). Once that was removed we thoroughly cleaned both surfaces with acetone, then sanded both surfaces with 150 grit, then vacuumed and re cleaned the surfaces with acetone. We then applied 5200 to the deck (sorry next owner), removed the shims one at a time adding bedding in their place as we went and added positioning screws to ensure proper seating. Then we filled all 180 screw holes with 4200 and set about screwing down the fly bridge with new stainless screws and finish washers. We removed the seat stations and did them as well. Then came the massive clean-up. I had 3M EVERYWHERE.
After we were done we sat there exhausted. My mate looked at me and after a while said “you know what; we should re-bed everything on the fly bridge”. I almost pitched him off, then said what the he$$, so we removed everything screwed down, with a very few exceptions, cleaned and prepped the surfaces and re-bedded them all using 4200 with new stainless screws etc. This included the aluminum trim that runs around the outer edge of the fly bridge (177 screws). It also included male canvas snaps and male canvas twist locks, vent covers, antenna mounts, rail bases etc etc.
2. On a rebidding rampage we decided to tackle the teak hand rail that runs from the helm to the bow. We removed each rail station, completely removed all old bedding from the station and the deck, sanded, prepped and re-bedded each with 5200 (again sorry next owner), and all new stainless screws. It took us several days. And yet again my mate said “why stop here, let’s do everything screwed to the deck”. After someone pried my hands from around his neck I said what the he$$. So if it was screwed down, with a very few exceptions, it was removed, cleaned prepped, re-bedded and re-attached with all new stainless screws. This included strakes, dodger hardware, salon rails, male canvas snaps and male canvas twist locks, deck box mounts, cleats, and chocks etc etc.
3. Then we went on a teak binge. We completely refurbished the fly bridge teak doors and frames, which included re-bending the doors into flat pieces (soaking and adding ¼” metal backing strips) as well as all other teak mounting plates etc. Everything was stripped, sanded, stained, sealed with penetrating epoxy and finished with 5 coats of Bristol Finish. Everything was re-assembled and all new stainless hardware and screws were used.
4. Next we removed the fly bridge front bench seat and replaced it with a custom mahogany bench made from individual mahogany boards biscuit cut, glued and pressed together. It was stained, sealed with penetrating epoxy and finished with 5 coats of Bristol finish. It was re-designed to give folks more room when sitting up there and to assure proper complete drainage of rain water or ocean spray.
5. We then decided we didn’t like the aluminum flat trim that was around every hatch in the helm and the fly bridge. I ordered heartwood aged teak from a source in FL, fully milled and ready for cutting and assembly. We removed the hatches then the aluminum trim, cut the new teak trim, stained, and sealed them with penetrating epoxy and finished with 5 coats of Bristol finish, then attached them to the hatches and re-hung the hatches using all new stainless bolts and lock washers (appx 160) and piano hinge.
6. The experience with the teak supplier was so good I suggested we make teak front deck box covers. I talked to the supplier in FL and ordered the individual aged heartwood teak boards cut to size (W&L.) We biscuit cut, glued and pressed them together then routered, stained, sealed with penetrating epoxy and finished with 5 coats of Bristol finish. We adhered them to the deck boxes with 5200 and stainless screws which were finished with teak bungs. While we were at it we added new stainless piano hinge on each box using new stainless bolts and lock washers.
7. That worked out so well we decided to add a teak bench cover to the large bench under the front salon windows.. I talked to the supplier in FL and ordered the individual aged heartwood teak boards. This time cut to a template of the bench that we supplied (bench has many angles) He sent the wood back with each board numbered in sequence for assembly. We biscuit cut, glued and pressed them together then routered, stained, sealed with penetrating epoxy and finished with 5 coats of Bristol finish. We adhered them to the salon bench with 5200 and stainless screws which were finished with teak bungs.
8. Our attention turned next to the aluminum rub-rail that encircles the boat as well as the large aluminum strake that runs from the stern to appx amidships. Since I bought her that rub rail has made me crazy. Every spring we spent 3 days cleaning and buffing these rails so that they looked presentable. I looked into all of the alternatives and decided to go with painting them. Sounds simple, but it’s not (ask me how I know). We decided to use the Walter Quick Step process to gradually remove years of clouding, pitting etc until we had a clean smooth finish. We then etched all of the rails, and then primed them. We sanded the primer and added 3 coats of Rustoleum Industrial spray paint. A perfect color match for natural aluminum. My thinking here was it would be way easier to touch up the paint every now and then vs 3 hard days of work every spring for unsatisfactory results. So far so good. It came out great and has held to fenders ropes etc.
9. While admiring the new teak deck box covers and teak salon bench we thought “wouldn't it be nice if the forward deck hatch light panel would let in more light, brightening up the fwd stateroom. We looked at the options and ended up deciding to cut out the existing “yellow opaque” panel with a dremmel. We then built a 3/8th inner frame for the new glass to sit on. We selected a high UV lightly tinted polycarbonate product. We took the hatch to the glazer and they installed the polycarbonate with an adhesive they “guaranteed” never to leak. It came out really well. Before we re-attached the hatch we decided to re-enforce the hatch back rim and re-attach the hatch with all new stainless screws and piano hinge. We also reconditioned the built in air vent as well.
10. Admiring the new hatch we thought about how nice it would be if the FWD stateroom had a ladder to make it easier to exit thru the hatch to the forward deck. A yard mate had a 6 step stainless rail ladder with 1” thick teak treads. We cut the treads so each step was appx 8 inches wide. We re-drilled the rail holes on the cut edge and used a router to cut out the area for the stainless bracket. I had the top ends of the rails re-bent into a tighter hook to rest on the upper bunk. Finished the teak treads, polished the stainless, added new rubber feet and re-assembled it. Works great (p.s. had to reverse the hinges on the hatch screen panel so it opened away from the ladder not toward it).
11. While preparing the bottom and running gear for paint, I kept looking at the mahogany splash rails. I knew there were a couple of soft spots so I started poking. Bad idea. I found moderate rot on the stb rail and minor rot on the port. I looked everywhere for access to the bolts holding them on but nothing. I considered a saws-all then I decided there was too much solid wood for something so drastic. I ended up leaving them on the boat and eviscerating all of the affected wood using a combination of, you guessed it, a dremmel, chisels, scrapers and saws. I let them dry out for 3 weeks in the sun. Next I applied a liberal coat of penetrating epoxy (git-rot in this case) several times in close succession to allow for maximum penetration and then let it fully cure. I lightly sanded the surface of the exposed wood and the hull, then re-built the splash rails using thickened epoxy and cardboard molds. A lot of sanding and faring later I ran a bead of 5200 around a bevel I left against the hull. We then primed and painted the splash rails with bright side primer and 4208 Hatteras off white. Looks great, but I couldn't just put back the old stainless trim so I replaced it with new stainless trim and screws bedded with 4200.
12. Well, by now I was afraid to look at any part of the boat. But I did
. I figured while we were down there we might as well remove and re-bed the swim platform brackets. Easier said than done. There is almost no access to the bolts that hold them to the transom, and after years of out of sight out of mind the nuts/washers pretty well seized to the bolts. After much coaxing and bad words, and after cutting a couple with an angle grinder, all 6 brackets were removed. Each bracket was cleaned down to the stainless and the hull locations were cleaned and sanded. I can confirm that our transoms are cored, mine with foam, and are solid beginning at mid boot stripe (appx). The brackets were remounted with 5200 and using new stainless bolts, lock nuts and washers. The swim platform (which had a few coats of Bristol added while it was off) was re-attached with all new stainless bolts/nuts and washers. Here comes the first real “OH SHIT” moment. Even though we numbered the brackets and the transom, we somehow, even though we checked 3 times, reversed 2 brackets so those two did not completely align with the swim platform bolt holes….Oh Crap !!! I was going to correct it immediately, but by then several days had passed so we just figured there’s no real loss of structural integrity, so it was added to next year’s project list.Interestingly enough, the small amount of water that always sat in the lazerette has not returned this year, it’s dry as a bone. (My suspicion being that the splash rails and swim platform brackets were the sources).
