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Ahh yes, it's that time

Nice photo, though....do all the boats up there get hauled out on railways? Around here it is mostly Travelifts, although the wood boat guys prefer railways. Then again, a 60C is a lot of weight for most of the lifts around here.
 
That photo is actually of my survey haul. You should have seen the yard, Dinco's in Wilmington, a blast from the past.
I'll be pulling her in a week or so in San Diego, on a travelift. And yeah, 98,000 pounds (or 116,000 pounds, it depends on whose load cell you believe) is a lot for slings. It's always a nervous time when your boat is in the slings, even if she's only 20 feet.
 
Pretty boat! I hadn't noticed you are in San Diego. If I can come to terms on that 70 in Newport Beach, I'll be sure to waive on my way past unless you want to take a chance on being seen in public with me! ;)
 
You bring up an interesting point, Dave: I have no idea what my boat actualy does weigh, and every time I try to look at new props, they want to know the weight of the boat. It is quite difficult to get an accurate weight on something as big as a yacht, because the only way to weigh it is either pick it up and measure, or see how much water it displaces and weigh that. Neither are practical. (and I am not sure how accurate my physics is here, either)

It turns out that the repower yard uses yet another way to pick up a boat- they have a huge hydraulic trailer, with a diesel truck cab hooked to it. It is rated for 68,000 lbs. It will hardly notice Blue Note. I'll try to get photos, it's an interesting rig.

We have a number of marine railways left on the Chesapeake, and yes, they are a blast from the past. Very vintage.
 
Randy, the real question is: Are you afraid of being seen in public with ME??
 
luckydave215 said:
Randy, the real question is: Are you afraid of being seen in public with ME??

You ain't just butt ugly are ya? I just figured you may be viewed as guilty by association by the court of public opinion. If that's not the case, I'll stop by and we'll take turns pulling each other on an innertube behind that 70! :D
 
Well, if you're going to visit, I'll have to come up with an activity my "guest" will enjoy. Let's see, you're from the south.............how about if we tie the transoms of our boats together and have a tractor pull?

Seriously, if you're out this way, let's meet for dinner or something.

David
 
luckydave215 said:
Well, if you're going to visit, I'll have to come up with an activity my "guest" will enjoy. Let's see, you're from the south.............how about if we tie the transoms of our boats together and have a tractor pull?

Seriously, if you're out this way, let's meet for dinner or something.

David

Hail far, a good transom bustin' would be almost as much fun as toobin'!

I realize you're from CA, but surely you must know you can't have a tractor pull without tractors! :confused:

Got a couple of riding mowers? :cool:

I may fly out to look at the boat next week, but it'll be a quickie. I'll let you know if the deal goes through. There's bound to be some good Mexican restaurants around there we can go to.
 
What is the weight you're showing at haul out. I have a 1980 60' Sportfish with Enclosed Flybridge. I'll be storing it with full fuel. It's being hauled in about a month for the winter. I know the yard has a 70 ton travel lift that should handle it. Any helpful hints on how to make sure that it's being hauled properly? Also, I was told that if my boat didn't have a drain plug that the yard would have to install one so that the boat didn't "sink on land" over the winter. Any ideas? I've stored the boat in the water over the past two winters and ended up with fiberglass damage, so I'm trying something different this year.
 
I made a reservation to haul in 2 weeks, I'll let you know what the travelift load cells say. My documentation says 47 tons, but who knows what that means. Anyway, all boats collect gear (weight) over time, mine's no different. One thing you should do to reduce weight (stress on the hull) during any haul out is to lighten ship as much as reasonable, by pumping out all the water, trying to be light on fuel, perhaps dropping the tender, etc.
Keeping fuel tanks full to prevent condensation makes that harder.

If the yard insists on a "drain plug" you could take a hose off a thru hull and leave it open (or find another yard!!!!!) just don't forget. Drain plugs are for trailerboats, are you sure your yard is up to caring for and handling a 60' convertible? If they are, they should know they don't have "drain plugs".
 
They are supposed to have drain plugs, for exactly the reason stated. Some members have mentioned that their boats don't, which is possible, but most of them do. Check your documentation from Hatteras which shows all thru-hulls, If you have one it will be shown there.
 
My Sportfish does not have a drain plug, but the documentation talks abou it. What I do not understand, is where Hatteras says the drain plug should be, there is no access to.

I think drain plugs needed to be requested. Our boat is in Florida and does not get hauled for the winter.
 
In the engine room it seems to me I came across what looks like a Gar Board plug on a wood boat. This may be the plug but I am still learning my 60'. It will look like a T-handle that screws in to the hull. I will look Thurs. to see if I can find it again
 
The yard owner told me that on a Hatt, the hull drain plug is in the bow so when the boat is stored for the winter, the water usually goes to the lowest point which would be the bow because the hull flattens out at the stern and the water will flow toward the deep v part of the hull. He said that Hatts usually have them from the factory. I haven't seen it yet, but I guess I'll have to start looking.

I like the idea of pulling a hose off of a thru hull but that will still allow a few inches of water to stand in the bilge to freeze.

As far as decreasing weight, the yard mandates that all boats get stored with full fuel and no batteries. They don't care where you get the fuel as long as they're full. They'll take all the batteries out and keep them on a trickle charge throughout the winter.

I hope the price of diesel falls through the floor in the next couple of weeks as it's going to be about a 1,000 gallons to fill. I guess now is the time to get one of those "get 5% back" credit cards.
 
I've seen a few boats (not Hatts) where the plug unscrewed from the outside. They had either a square recess or screwdriver type slot for unscrewing them. Wouldn't hurt to look. It makes sense that it would be in the bow. When sitting level, either in water or on the hard, bilge water always ends up in the bow on mine.

If you haven't already seen this, Pascoe has some observations on the old full tank vs. condensation theories:

http://www.yachtsurvey.com/myth_of_condensation_in_fuel_tanks.htm
 
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HATT TRICK (58 3sr)has a T handel drain plug under the v berth sole--down about 4 feet and impossible to get at unless youre 6'6" and 150#. When blocked properly on a level keel the water will run to the front. When mine was blocked last time the bow was about 20" high and all the junk ran into the trunk :eek: Scrapers, gunk, powerwashing and finally a shop vac were the order of the day(s) PLUS about a hundred elephant KOTEXs. Not clean enuff to paint, but any residual oil film is captured by the kotex and pumps discharge CLEAN. On my REAL boat, I let it drain and then vac out a half a gallon of water and throw a quart or two of pink antifreeze in there for FREEZING conditions. BRRR ws
 
As far as decreasing weight, the yard mandates that all boats get stored with full fuel and no batteries. They don't care where you get the fuel as long as they're full. They'll take all the batteries out and keep them on a trickle charge throughout the winter.

What is their reason for this don't they know Gas is rated for a few weeks storage and diesel is about 2 months now. Pascoe has a article about moisture and in fiberglass tanks it is very small amount. I like getting fresh fuel every spring and let the filter do their job which never have more then 1 oz of water in them!
 
36Cs have the T handle plug in the Vberth bilge sump like you're talking about. The boat was designed so that if it is blocked level, water will run to the bilge sump and fall out the drain plug hole. It is not quite on the bottom but it only leaves an inch or two.

If the boat is covered, very little water will get in. A winter cover for a boat that is hauled out is a great thing to have, but for most of the boats on this forum, the cost is prohibitive. Any bigger than my boat, I think it would be unmanageable. However, they can be shrink-wrapped, which also works. I have heard pros and cons regarding shrink-wrapping boats that are painted with Awlgrip or Imron.
 
Well, I hauled today, and the load cells on the travelift said 77,000 pounds. I guess Shelter Island Boatyard needs new load cells, because that's at least 10,000 pounds too light, and maybe more (maybe a lot more).
The surprises....(there are always surprises) were a loose cutlass bearing on the starboard rudder, (the one that was leaking, now I know why) and a slightly loose cutlass bearing on the starboard shaft. The yard manager said he would give me a break on the haul to change props in march or so (when the props arrive) so I'll change the shaft bearing then. Tomorrow I drop the rudders, and deal with that.
Today I also dealt with the electronics installer, the shipwright, the yard, the bottom painter, the hull polisher, and my borrowed deckhand, so I'm ready for a beer.
Back to the yard at 0 dark:30 in the morning to work on a couple thru hulls that are stiff, repair a loose bolt I found in the swim platform (west system, here I come), and fix the steaming light that apparently failed this morning.
More things will pop up, they always do when you go to the yard.
 

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