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aftermarket Detroit Diesel Valves

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86Hat41

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41' CONVERTBLE-Series II (1986 - 1991)
Hi, anyone ever use any aftermarket Detroit engine parts. 671's (450hp). I'm going with all OEM liners and pistons but I could save $1K by getting aftermarket valves. OEM are $61 each vs. $18 each aftermarket. There also seems to be a bunch of different aftermarket sources. Anyone have any insight. Thank you.
 
Hi, anyone ever use any aftermarket Detroit engine parts. 671's (450hp). I'm going with all OEM liners and pistons but I could save $1K by getting aftermarket valves. OEM are $61 each vs. $18 each aftermarket. There also seems to be a bunch of different aftermarket sources. Anyone have any insight. Thank you.

Theres plenty of good aftermarket parts. And cheap crap too.



Who is doing the work? will they warranty it if a valve fails?

If I was having a major done I would want a warranty.

If I was doing it myself I would know if they are equvilant before buying them.
 
I have the best Detroit guy in the world doing most of the work. He will warranty it if he gets to use OEM, I just want to try to see if I can convince him to try aftermarket valves to save me the $1K. Is there an aftermarket company you recommend that makes parts as good as OEM?
 
I have the best Detroit guy in the world doing most of the work. He will warranty it if he gets to use OEM, I just want to try to see if I can convince him to try aftermarket valves to save me the $1K. Is there an aftermarket company you recommend that makes parts as good as OEM?
Trust your mechanic. He does this everyday and understands the difference in parts quality. There are some good after market manufacturers. Your mechanic should know who makes the best parts either OEM or aftermarket. I've had 2 different mechanics do majors for me. Both insisted on OEM except for a few items they were comfortable with. I had a head that was bad and not a reusable core. Detroit was out of stock and only rebuilt or new aftermarket heads were available. My mechanic would only use one brand of aftermarket heads and they didn't have anything available at the time. I asked the other mechanic I use his opinion and he agreed. Both said there's a huge difference in quality between brands. We decided to wait and got lucky when one was located out of state. Go with what the mechanic is willing to stand behind. My mechanic claims he gets a lot of work that would otherwise be warranty work but the customer decided to supply thier own parts. Keep in mind the parts are a much smaller percentage of the cost than labor. One minor part failure can eat that $1000 in a hurry. You also run the risk of having a part failure trash the engine and now your on the hook for the rebuild. Is $1000 worth the risk of an uncovered valve failing?
 
What Jack said.
 
Yeah, valves aren't where I'd skimp.

I know the OEM stuff is expensive, and some of the aftermarket is ok - but some is crap and the problem is figuring out which is which unless you have long experience with a particular manufacturer.

If you go with the aftermarket valves and drop one down the road you're going to be mighty unhappy.
 
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One more vote for OEM valves. Even they can have problems. Many years ago I had my heads rebuilt by the DDC dealer who installed all new OEM valves. At about 50 hours one of the new valves failed. I was lucky and it only took out the head and two pistons.
 
Having rejected 18 out of 24 Detroit reliabililt injectors I'm not sure about any parts these days. How do we know DD dosent buy from the lowest bid supplier and repackage them.
 
Having rejected 18 out of 24 Detroit reliabililt injectors I'm not sure about any parts these days. How do we know DD dosent buy from the lowest bid supplier and repackage them.

We dont but if their part fails and damages the engine they are going to cover the cost of the repair im many instances. Same with Cummins and probably most other manufacturers.
 
Trust your mechanic. He does this everyday and understands the difference in parts quality. There are some good after market manufacturers. Your mechanic should know who makes the best parts either OEM or aftermarket. I've had 2 different mechanics do majors for me. Both insisted on OEM except for a few items they were comfortable with. I had a head that was bad and not a reusable core. Detroit was out of stock and only rebuilt or new aftermarket heads were available. My mechanic would only use one brand of aftermarket heads and they didn't have anything available at the time. I asked the other mechanic I use his opinion and he agreed. Both said there's a huge difference in quality between brands. We decided to wait and got lucky when one was located out of state. Go with what the mechanic is willing to stand behind. My mechanic claims he gets a lot of work that would otherwise be warranty work but the customer decided to supply thier own parts. Keep in mind the parts are a much smaller percentage of the cost than labor. One minor part failure can eat that $1000 in a hurry. You also run the risk of having a part failure trash the engine and now your on the hook for the rebuild. Is $1000 worth the risk of an uncovered valve failing?
A MAN !!!!!!!! some of this stuff comes from China or should i say Asia it is trash. Yes it is expensive but to have to by the parts again and pay for the labor and what the part broke is more expensive..... A lot of testing went into DD oem parts just copied across the pond.....
 
Definitely take the mechanic's advice since he's the one who's going to warranty it.

That being said you have to remember,.. Detroit doesn't make valves. They're being made by an "aftermarket" manufacturer. i.e. when we used to sell Clevite parts the factory rep told me they were making camshafts for Caterpillar. A reputable manufacturer will cover repairs to damage caused by a defective part, I have firsthand experience with that. So if you're considering it shop a well known name and look at their warranty policy.

Soooo,... which brand of aftermarket valves are you looking at?
 
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I have been using the FP valves for the last 7 or so years. They have the same markings and same U cast into the bottom as DD parts. So far no issues.
 
OEM valves gets my vote.

Also make sure you get the right valves for you engine.

I am not sure but you may need the "J" valves for the 450 hp 671, the J valves cost more and you
have four of them per hole.

I don't remember which valves are in the NA 671 but I do remember that the cost about 1/3 less.
 
I don't think it is worth saving a grand on this. I'd put in the best quality I could find, parts that your mechanic has confidence in. After all, if a valve fails, it may destroy not only the engine it's in, but your relationship with your mechanics as well. Plus, for a grand, do you want to be constantly worried about your engines? I think it's not economy, but the illusion of economy at the price of some peace of mind, that you would get if you used cheaper valves.

After all, there are a lot of circumstances beyond your control the minute you cast off and leave the dock. I'd stack the deck in your favor as much as you can, and putting inexpensive parts in your engines doesn't do that for you.

If you put in DD parts, and your engine fails, it will be a huge pain and some expense, but it will not involve you berating yourself for giving in to the temptation to skimp on the cost of overhaul parts.

If you think about it, a decent rule of thumb is that the harder a part is to get to, the better quality you want it to be. Valves are pretty hard to get to.
 
I find myself of mixed mind here. Who makes the aftermarket valves? There are very well known aftermarket valve companies that have been making valves for a long time. I won't get into an argument about it but if any one of these several companies are making the valves, I'd use them in a heartbeat (prefer them)over oem valves if I was overhauling an engine. HOWEVER, if the mechanic says he won't warranty the work unless DD valves are used (as pointed out, DD never made a valve, they bought them from valve suppliers at the least expensive price they could negotiate), then that's an important consideration.

I have to say that in the scheme of the price involved to pay someone to overhaul the engine, a thousand bucks doesn't seem like much of a consideration. If you are concerned about the warranty, then pay the extra money.

I must admit that the cynical side of me tends to question the "I only use X parts" because having been involved in engine work for many years, sometimes the parts are tied to the specific profit for the shop/mech. But again, if they won't warranty it without their chosen parts and you want a warranty, that's pretty much the end of the discussion.
 
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Returning home fron SC i had a little bit of white purple smoke at idle. I called the mechanic and he said damage done bring it home. I brought it home! Got home ( short story) valve chiped went out turbo (turbo damaged) top of piston got the other piece of the valve piston damage.
Valves or should i say the rest of them in the head did not look like they were oem. Western branch doing the work. He sugested changing the head out. That left the other side maybee weak or who knows what. Conclusion!!! Western branch rebuilding both engines to the about 45000 $ and rebuilding turbo 2000. There is a wareanty of one year or 100 hours. The warenty is backed by a company who can afford to back it. Not just a guy in a truck.
Valve oem or not i do not know the valve old one did not have a demple in the middle of it. As i understand the valve with demple from DD has all up dated mine did not.
I wanted to put 3406 cats in it it was going to cost about 200000 $. I have the basic engine but no gears and no whiring, gages or brain and so forth as well as the bulk head had to come out.

Oem or after market???? For me not a hard decision. I can understand fuel pumps water pumps or external parts being aftermarket.NOT INTERNAL PARTS
 
Returning home fron SC i had a little bit of white purple smoke at idle. I called the mechanic and he said damage done bring it home. I brought it home! Got home ( short story) valve chiped went out turbo (turbo damaged) top of piston got the other piece of the valve piston damage.
Valves or should i say the rest of them in the head did not look like they were oem. Western branch doing the work. He sugested changing the head out. That left the other side maybee weak or who knows what. Conclusion!!! Western branch rebuilding both engines to the about 45000 $ and rebuilding turbo 2000. There is a wareanty of one year or 100 hours. The warenty is backed by a company who can afford to back it. Not just a guy in a truck.
Valve oem or not i do not know the valve old one did not have a demple in the middle of it. As i understand the valve with demple from DD has all up dated mine did not.
I wanted to put 3406 cats in it it was going to cost about 200000 $. I have the basic engine but no gears and no whiring, gages or brain and so forth as well as the bulk head had to come out.

Oem or after market???? For me not a hard decision. I can understand fuel pumps water pumps or external parts being aftermarket.NOT INTERNAL PARTS

I agree with Tim! Too much at risk for ten Benjamin's. My experience with warrantees is that you can wipe your butt with most of them. Better to make sure you have the right people using therightparts the first time.
 
Thank you for all the responses guys. My mechanic has only used OEM and that is why he prefers them. He suggested that if I can find a reputable aftermarket source with comparable quality he would be willing to try them out. My thoughts on the subject are exactly what all of your thoughts are about not wanting to skimp. My wallet and my mechanics curiosity were looking for responses similar to “captddis” with brand specific experience. But I do appreciate your opinions.
 
IMHO the answer to this is simple, why hire an expert and not follow his advice. $1000.00 is peanuts on an overhaul.
 
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