Aeroquip fittings

[Beckytek]

Does anyone know how to remove/install aeroquip fittings on the end of fuel hoses? I removed 3 fuel lines today to replace and can't figure out how to get the fittings off. Do you need a special tool? Thanking you in advance, Ron

 

[MikeP]

I had the same problem the first time I ever dealt with them but no you don't need any special tools. Hold the base base fitting - preferably in a vise but a large crescent or correctly sized wrench wll work. Unscrew the smaller fitting with the appropriate wrench - they can be quite difficult to get started. Remove it completely. The base fitting is a LEFT HAND thread. Unscrew it off the hose by turning it clockwise.

I have removed/replaced the fittings numerous times on the boat without using a vise but a vise makes it considerably easier. When you put in new hose and have to cut it, if it's wire cored hose, be sure to wrap the hose with several turns of tape where you plan to cut it. Almost any tape you have aboard will work - duct, electrical, masking. Cut through the tape with the saw. Then remove the tape. The tape will keep the wire from fraying out and making it impossible to fit the base fitting on the hose.

 

[Genesis]

Yep - what Mike said. They'll come apart.

 

[Beckytek]

Thanks for the info Mike but mine only has one nut, not two. I tried holding the hose in the vise and turning the nut clockwise as per your directions but it will only turn about 1/2 turn. I'll try sending a pic.

 

[Trojan]

Try putting the large hex part in the vise and unscrewing the smaller hex. The inside must unscrew first. Then the out side will unscrew off the hose. You can not unscrew the large fitting from the hose without removing the inner part. Bill

 

[MikeP]

Right - put the green-arrowed fitting in the vice. Unscrew the red-arrowed fitting in the normal (anti-clockwise) manner. Then put the hose in the vice as you have it in the pic and remove the green-arrowed fitting by unscrewing it clockwise (left-hand thread)

 

[Beckytek]

That right hand nut turns freely by hand, but I'll go try it right now.

 

[Beckytek]

Tried it but the nut just turns freely like the nut on a flared fitting.

 

[captddis]

You need to screw a male fitting into the end swivel. Make it tight then unscrew the swivel with the male fitting holding it from turning.

 

[MikeP]

I see now... that particular style of aeroquip fitting requires a special assembly tool to screw the outer (red) fitting into the green (hose) fitting. I have never used it but I have seen it. To install it you use the tool - essentially a short, fat, bolt that threads into the red fitting and has a tip that properly mates with the flare on that fitting. You tighten the tool into the fitting with a wrench on the tool and a wrench on the fitting which locks the fitting's hex so it won't turn freely. (just like double-nutting a stud to install or pull it out) Then you screw the fitting, using the tool's hex head, into the other (green) fitting on the hose. You then unscrew the tool out of the red fitting.

I don't know if this explanation is at all clear...However, you have to do the same thing to pull the fitting - screw in the tool to lock the fitting's hex head so it will unscrew.

Without the tool, you can't do anything with this type of aeroquip fitting.

 

[captddis]

It is called a mandrel and it is NOT needed . I have done hundreds as described above. Sometimes you guys make things hard when the solution is simple.

 

[Beckytek]

Okay, that makes sense now. I've never seen anything like this before. Thanks Mike for all your help, I really appreciate it. Ron

 

[Genesis]

Yep. Just screw in a flare fitting. Go get one at Ace Hardware, screw it in, make it nice and tight, and then unscrew the outside piece.

You can use the same method to reinstall.

 

[MikeP]

Capt and Genesis are quite right - obviously a regular old male flare fitting would do the job. Can't think why I didn't see that immediately - I guess I got fixated on the tool that I saw used - it was a nice red anodized thingie.

 

[Maynard Rupp]

As an aircraft mechanic, I probably made 300 of those things over the years. There is no need for any special tools. If you are using their high preassure,(3000 psi) hose, installing the end requires lots of swear words and big wrenches. The rest of the hoses are simple. I can't think of any need, on a boat, for high preassure hoses. Most of the hoses we use are way hefty for the job. If you use lower preassure stuff, it's much more flexible and will work just as good.

 

[Beckytek]

Hallelujah! I did it. Got a flare fitting from HD and that did the trick. That will probably be the first and last time I do that job. Thanks all for your advice, don't know what I'd do without this forum. Ron

 

[Genesis]

As an aircraft mechanic, I probably made 300 of those things over the years. There is no need for any special tools. If you are using their high preassure,(3000 psi) hose, installing the end requires lots of swear words and big wrenches. The rest of the hoses are simple. I can't think of any need, on a boat, for high preassure hoses. Most of the hoses we use are way hefty for the job. If you use lower preassure stuff, it's much more flexible and will work just as good.

The lower-pressure AQP hoses that are fuel and oil rated in larger sizes (particularly used for things like the remote oil filter mounts and gear oil connecions) usually involve the use of plenty of 4-letter words when the couplings are put on as well.

The smaller-diameter ones are not nearly as nasty to work with.

 

[MikeP]

Nice going, Ron. It may not be the last time and hopefully you won't wait so long to do it that you'll forget how you did it!

I can't tell you how many times I've worked on something that I had last dealt with some years prior and I find myself muttering, "There was some trick to this...what the H3ll was it?"

Most recently I was replacing the cooling fluid in our OLD (so old it's the second time I've done it) projection TV. After about 30 minutes of almost completely disassembling one of the guns, I remembered that the trick I had learned 7 years ago was that I only had to remove one snap ring to remove the lens and replace the fluid - a 3 minute job per gun. "Oh dang, NOW I remember..."