Advice on Adding overhead cabinets in Series II 36C V Berth

[dave1985]

Because of the minimal clothing storage space in our 36C, I'm thinking of adding cabinets in the v berth on both sides above the pilllow area. On the starboard side the bulkhead backs up against the galley stove and a wall of cabinetry. On the the port side the bulkhead separates the v berth from the hanging locker. My though was to anchor the upper front of each cabinet by adding a board tabbed to the under side of the deck in line with the boards used to suspend the headliner and to anchor the lower rear of the cabinets to the plywood bulkhead. The cabinets would be about a foot high near the v berth entry and taper to about 8 inches high at the hull edge. They'd be about 11 inches deep. I started wondering if doing this might add more strain to either the deck or the bulkhead in a rough seas condition and prove to be something I'd regret doing resulting in stress cracks or worse. Any thoughts on whether I should be concerned or not would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

[SKYCHENEY]

The way these boats are built, I would not be concerned. You could probably hang several hundred pounds from each of them without issue. Just think, many convertibles have heavy tenders sitting on the bow.

 

[the kuz]

Our series 1 36C has a similar layout in the bow cabin. I custom built an overhead cabinet for a microwave and storage (about 36w x 14h x 24 - 18d - slopes in towards bow) above the starboard V-berth against the bulkhead that backs up to the galley. It is bolted through the bulkhead with 1/4 inch stainless and secured with washers and nuts (goes through into the dish cabinet above the stove/sink). The top (on the inside of the cabinet) is screwed into the wooden stringers that hold the headliner with sturdy metal corner Ls attached to the sides and frames for the sides/front. It is just pressed against the hull side and is not attached there, but the slope of the hull does provide some vertical bracing. The cabinet and mirowave are pretty heavy, but have not moved or shown any adverse impacts despite many years of rough weather running.

Other than the bulkhead wall, all adjoining surfaces are compound curves, so be sure that you use carboard patterns for sides, top and bottom so that you can fit them properly. It is a lot easier to cut cardboard (with scissors) and make a trial and error fit before sawing into teak/mahogony boards. Over-build and make it extra strong. Forward side and bottom are solid 3/4 inch mahogany, top, front, and side against the wall are generously edge framed with 3/4 inch thick mahogany - back is open through to the hull which is covered/padded. All joints are seriously braced with metal corner Ls on the side against the bulkhead and wooden corner blocks on all the others and then screwed/glued so that it can't come apart. The side facing the wall and the metal top brackets carrry all the loads. Bottom is similarly braced/screwed/glued so that it can not come loose.

It looks great, is very functional and is not in the way. If you did not know, you would think it was OEM as the color and finish matches the bulkhead.

Best Regards, Bob K

 

[dave1985]

Thank you both for your thoughts. It would seem to certainly be a doable project. I appreciate your time.