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Adding autolpilot

richard collette

Active member
Joined
Jan 21, 2009
Messages
52
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
43' DOUBLE CABIN (1970 - 1984)
I have a 43DCMY and want to add an autopilot . I have a Garmin 3010 Chartplotter and wonder if anyone has suggestions on a particular autopilot.
 
I installed a raymarine auto pilot on my 37c Seatalk connections should make it talk to the garmin. The install was not bad the hardest part I thought was bleeding the steering system took about a day to do
 
I've installed a Furuno autopilot on my current boat and a Raymarine on the previous boat. The Furuno is more sophisticated and better built, as it should be, considering it costs far more than the Raymarine.

That being said, either brand works fine, as long as you select the correct pump model for your boat and install it with the right gauge wire.

Half the people will disagree, but I don't see a big value in having the autopilot connected to the GPS/plotter.

L.
 
Autopilots are a NICE, if expensive, accessory.

I used a Simrad Robertson when replacing the drowned out original autopilot on my 48 HATT YF about 1999. It's a time consuming job, but not difficult. When you install one, put in shut off valves at the pump so you can siwtch them off if the pump needs repair...saves bleeding,etc... And check the location where you plan to install the electronic compass...use a hand held compass to be SURE there is no magnetic field nearby....

For unknown reasons, the Robertson computer stopped once and would not start up...I was near Gloucester,Mass and called a local electronics repair place...They said something like "Disconnect the green and gray wires to the AP 300 and touch them together"...you should be ok...sure enough that was the one and only computer problem.

I found the Simrad people OUTSTANDING when I installed and took mine on a set up run...answered my questions immediately right on the phone.Another member here, more recently, was unhappy with SIMRAD help.

The Robertson pump motors (mine was an RPU 160) previously had a problem where permanent magnets might become unglued, touch the armature, and steering would be sluggish, incomplete...Don't know if they fixed that...I epoxied mine and it's been good for five years...a pain, but easy to fix after Robertson people told me that was likely the issue....

GPS interface: Really nice feature; Highly recommended..all you need is the right cable connection between the GPS display and the autopilot. Big advantage when making long runs as you are ALWAYS within say 50 feet of your course because the GPS manages cross track error, so it minimizes distance travelled (and fuel use) . Also, say you head to the Bahamas from Fla, you set your course via the GPS, and it takes you there, right the the harbor entrance or buoy of your choice. Without the interface, you need to manage cross track error manually and adjust your autopilot manually, say as lateral current strength varies along the way....When navigating in fog and currents, like I did in Maine many,many times alone, looking for lobster boats on radar, lobster floats visually, and rock outcroppings everywhere you do NOT want to worry about having to make course corrections as well.....unless you have a trustworthy crew to delegate. Then everybody is nervous!!!
 
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IMHO this is another of those "how do you plan to use the boat?" things. I would say that if you operate as REB described it's a great thing to have the autopilot interfaced to the plotter. If you operate like we do, it isn't necessary.

Don't get me wrong, I believe an AP is a required item but having it interface may not be. We use the 1980 Raytheon Neco autopilot that was installed on our boat when it was new. It holds heading amazingly well BUT, as noted, that's all it does and it can't correct for cross currents. In our cruising it just hasn't made any difference at all and it requires very little adjusting to stay right on the chart plotter route.

I don't find this to be an issue because you can't leave any autopilot "unattended" with no one at the helm anyway so the occasional adjustment to a new route heading or whatever is not a problem. Also, where we currently cruise and used to crusie (Chesapeake/LI Sound), if you actually let the boat follow the AP without being at the helm you not only run the risk of collision but you will end up with props/shafts wrapped with crab-pot lines! :)

All that being said, I am NOT saying that you shouldn't interface the AP with the chartplotter, just that IF you have a working AP that doesn't interface it may not be worth buying a new AP JUST to have that interface. Personally, the only way I would do that is if the Neco gave up the ghost. However, I would NOT have the boat without an AP - it's so much more relaxing to be sitting at the helm monitoring than to be literally at the wheel all the time. Also, I find that as REB noted, when the AP is running the boat, the wake is straight; when I am running it, it's not! :)
 
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I've been very happy with my Furuno Navpilot-511 which I installed in place of a non-working Autohelm 7000. I was able to use the original Autohelm pump which reduced costs and saved bleeding the hydraulics. Works great in all modes (Auto and Nav) and easy dual station installation. Installed compass on upper starboard wall of master stateroom closet backing to shower with Furuno's optional bracket. This location made for easy installation and wiring and is far enough away from all interferance sources. Also ordered their heavy duty rudder sensor as it is constructed much better.
 

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