Adding a Dock Water Connection

[Sadey]

First, we use both dock water and our tank for supply and yes whenever we leave the boat we turn the dock water off even if for a walk. I’d like to add another quick disconnect at the bow for bow in docking.

1. Would it be bad form to use reinforced flexible hose to run to wherever I plan to connect into the fresh water system?
2. Can I just tee into the pex water line just prior to the water pressure regulator?
3. Should I add a check valve between the tee and the quick disconnect?

I’m thinking of either teeing into the port side water line from that side’s quick disconnect or running
back to the line that comes from the port side QD and teeing into the line just before the PR. We removed the central vac and the pvc line for that side of the boat is an empty chase from the generator room all the way the stern of the boat with an opening in the port ER.

I have major CDO (ocd is out of alphabetical order) and hate cords and hoses running down the dock and hanging off the side of the boat and in the companion ways. I also hate my wife asking me all the time if we have enough water, even though the water gauge is wired to be on all the time.

 

[bostonhatteras]

The food grade 3/4” silicone hose I have before and after my water pump sees 40 psi and obviously vacuum. No sign of bulging or collapsing whatsoever at clamps or anywhere. Two more sections of same where it connects copper system to heat exchanger fill valves. That said those are less than 3’ runs. When I relocated my water heater I ran copper the majority of the way then transferred into uponor pex to make life easy routing between two expansion tanks, the heater and the copper. Why not use at least a form of pex if you don’t want to continue the copper around the boat? This will be a permanent modification?

 

[Sadey]

It will be a permanent installation. Our boat has all butyl throughout the boat.

 

[bostonhatteras]

Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing.

Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing.



https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-...rb-x-Polybutylene-Couling-EPXBC1212/310850595
Adapter to transition into pex A There’s adapters for Pex B that uses crimp rings. There’s also shark bite transitions but I’m not a fan of shark bite Emergency only imo ID is larger on poly pipe versus same nominal size pex Pex can easily use bend supports for going around corners etc so you can eliminate as many fittings as possible. Pex is available in straight lengths and coil. It’s the same stuff and will bend or whatever equally well. Wouldn’t you need a check valve regardless?

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Second vote for PEX. Easy to make the connections and tougher than any hose material.

 

[Sadey]

Okay, I was trying to be a bit lazy with the flexible tube. Didn’t know pex made a flexible roll. That sounds like the ticket.
Does it matter where I tee into the existing water line as long as it’s before the pressure regulator? Should I put a check valve between the new quick disconnect and the tee? There is a check valve after the pressure regulator.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I'd just tee in before the regulator.

 

[jmooney]

I am installing a hose master in the bow . I haven’t hooked it up yet but I have run the water line from the port engine room to the bow . In copper, I am a traditionalist. I teed in were the other lines are just before the pressure regulator is and used a similar check valve as is used with the two dockside lines .

 

[firbanks]

Another +1 on PEX. I’ve been replacing polybutylene piping in sections with pex. I have a dockside water connection mounted on my stbd bow gunwale. Just make sure you use a dockside water pressure regulator ahead of any polybutylene pipe unless you want to chase leaks at joints…