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A New Adventure in Suction Pipe Installation in a 53MY

  • Thread starter Thread starter tjshuler
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tjshuler

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Sep 3, 2012
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
53' MOTOR YACHT (1969 - 1988)
Bought the boat about a year ago. Initially could not figure out why black water tanks got full so fast. After reading threads from my learned associates here I was pretty sure that after being fed brackish / salt water for decades, the brass pipes surrendered.

So, the big problem here is how to get the bronze cap off the tee that accesses the suction tube. That sucker was installed in 1979 and wasn't going to budge without a little physics applied.

Tried pipe wrenches and a big old crescent wrench that I borrowed from Herman Munster. Nuthin'

I know about open flame on a boat and the possible bad results from that. But that is what two engineers did today. One applying a small amount of flame to the tee and the other maning the fire extinguisher.

Guess what? After about 4 minutes of heat, we re-applied Herman's crescent wrench and it unscrewed just like it had just been installed yesterday.

Did both tanks. Tomorrow, we shall visit Home Depot and purchase the PVC pipe and 3M 5200 and make new suction pipes, install them and put the caps back on.

The tank under the stairs to the galley only unspools 1/4 turn at a time, but it can be done without sawing out large sections of the existing woodwork.

This is not a difficult project if one of you still needs to do this. If flame is required, a prudent approach will work. And having a second person ready with an extinguisher adds a level of comfort.

The Admiral will be happy that we many more gallons of storage downstream from the heads.

Keeping the Admiral happy is definitely a critical path item.
 
5200 for what?

PVC has specific solvents and adhesives. 5200 is not one of them.
 
Thought I read here that new pvc suction pipe should be frozen in forever with 5200. Perhaps early senility is setting in. What would you recommend?
 
Thread sealant if it's threaded.
 
5200 for PVC is a little extreme, considering PVC isn't that durable yo start with. PVC cement will like do as good a job, dries quickly and is much less expensive.

That is if "less expensive" has anything to do with yachting?

JM
 
5200 for PVC is a little extreme, considering PVC isn't that durable yo start with. PVC cement will like do as good a job, dries quickly and is much less expensive.

That is if "less expensive" has anything to do with yachting?

JM

It's not the cost. It's doing it the right way.

Although with half the crew here it is the cost
 
Totally agree with BoatsB. I'm a big 5200 fan but this is totally the wrong application for it. As he said, if threaded, just use any of the normal thread sealers - teflon tape or liquid would be excellent as well as any number of other thread sealers designed for that purpose.
 
TJ your on the right track take a ruler and measure Thur the tee to bottom of tank up to the part of the tee so its below side outlet use 11\2 PVC pipe cut a slant on bottom of pipe .Mine was about 16.5 inch long with end sitting on bottom of the tank .OK on top of pipe butter up about 4 inches with 5200 insert Thur top of tee and take a paint stick and smooth out 5200 and that's all put the cap on and call it a day.
Bob
PS must have caught to leaders after adult beverage.
 
Just a little more info for those that have to redo their tank drop pipe in holding tank the bronze pick up pipe after years gives up the ghost and drops to the bottom of the tank what's left is were the pipe was soldered in the tee and that's usually still in tack there are no threads to screw a fitting to in the bottom of the tee they go to the fitting in the plate .But as luck would have it 11/2 PVC pipe slides in and the 5200 works great for sealing the new drop pipe.Easy fix and you can do both sides in less than an hour
Best Bob
 

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