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A/C Condensation drain; galley 56MY

  • Thread starter Thread starter GJH
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GJH

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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
56' MOTOR YACHT (1981 - 1984)
On my boat the condensate drain hose for this unit is attached directly under the air handler assembly. For some reason, mine has started to overflow and is dripping down into the generator room below. The other end of the hose drains into an unreachable (for me) sump. I do not understand what could causing this drainage issue. Before I cut this hose to see if I can clear it, if it even needs clearing, does anyone have any experience with this particular issue they could share? TIA.
 
Might check here or just post the question on his site.
http://marine-ac.com/
Steve might have experience with your specific location on the 56.
I did mine with a little air pressue by removing the hose on the
condensate pan if you can get to it.
According to Steve's site the drain hose's have a tendency for dirt to accumulate and
resrict or block flow.
 
After having a similar problem, I now blow my condensate hoses out with air every spring. Quick and easy and no cutting of hose. This assumes, of course, that you can get to the end of the hose at the sump. If not, maybe cut the hose and add a Tee with a cap for future access to blow it out.
 
I just had the same problem with mine. A little compressed air cleaned it out.
 
I have had clogged drain lines.The ones I could reach I blew out.For the others I used alittle bleach and then poured in boiling water.Draied right out.
 
My problem is I cannot access the drain without pulling the air handler out, and I am too big and fat to be able to get to the sump (see bow thruster discussion). Can you blow air back up to the air handler, dislodging gunk yet not damaging the handler? I stuck a mirror back there and the hose appears direct attached to the assembly, rather than the bottom of the pan. It is a little hard to get in there and see. Putting some sort of T into the line where it passes through the engine room would be easy.

This problem has just evidenced itself in the last few days, after running this unit 24/7 for a few weeks. It was one of those things where I went down to the generator room to do a few chores in advance of our cruise tomorrow, and "hmnm... what's this? water where it shouldn't be.. fresh water.." then noticing the dripping from under where the air handler unit sits.

I'll go over to Steve's site too.

Thanks for all the answers so far.
 
Since yours has worked in the past it must be plugged. But I had one that would not drain. There was a long run but all downhill. By luck I stuck a screw driver inbetween the hose and the copper pipe and happen to be observant and notice the water running, it was awhile back I might of heard it as well. Anyway I had been doing some house plumbing and understood that sometimes you need a vent. So I created a little minivent in the same area and have never had a problem since.

The one thing I've learned about Hatteras is they were not plumbers. It is a relative weak area of their builds.
 
Blow it back up to the air handler. That's what I do.
 
My problem is I cannot access the drain without pulling the air handler out, and I am too big and fat to be able to get to the sump (see bow thruster discussion). Can you blow air back up to the air handler, dislodging gunk yet not damaging the handler? I stuck a mirror back there and the hose appears direct attached to the assembly, rather than the bottom of the pan. It is a little hard to get in there and see. Putting some sort of T into the line where it passes through the engine room would be easy.

This problem has just evidenced itself in the last few days, after running this unit 24/7 for a few weeks. It was one of those things where I went down to the generator room to do a few chores in advance of our cruise tomorrow, and "hmnm... what's this? water where it shouldn't be.. fresh water.." then noticing the dripping from under where the air handler unit sits.

I'll go over to Steve's site too.

Thanks for all the answers so far.
nn PM sent
 
I have switched from compressed air to a shop vac for task like this. Lot less of a mess on the other end. Also eliminates the possibilitty of blowing a hose off a fitting.

Pete
 
My airconditioner mechanic blew air back to the drain pan. He used nitrogen gas but any air pressure should work or suck it out with a vacuum. He warned about using clorox because it tends to form some HCl which can rapidly destroy the heat fins made of aluminum at the condenser.
Larry Valentine
 
I agree with Pete, using a shop vac is much cleaner and will prevent the possibility of blowing or bursting any lines. My A/C guy recommended it, tape the hose to the through hull fitting (or end of hose leading to sump pump) and pour warm/hot water in the a/c drip pan (if you have easy access to it)....always amazed as to what gets sucked out.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. In the meantime, it has self-corrected. We left the unit on over night, and now after 18 hours of continuous running (and on/off running about 6 hours a day since I posted, we've been anchored out since Friday morning), and everything is bone dry.

I think I will put that T in this week, blow gently upwards and down, followed by some distilled white vinegar drained down or blown up. Something tells me a dirty air filter played a role, though it didn't look exceptionally dirty.
 
I may be missing something, but if so, have yet to figure it out. When you have an obstruction in the drain line, the objective is to remove it. Not knowing where the obstruction is, you want the chosen approach to apply to the entire drain path. The choice should always be to work from the overboard drain end, since you likely can not get good access to the evaporator drain fitting in most cases. If you use air pressure you will drive the obstruction back up in the evaporator condensate pan, if you are lucky, or spray it around in the cabin with less luck. If it is blown back in the condensate pan, no mess in the cabin, but the obstruction is still in the system waiting to cause another stoppage. Using a shop vac at the overboard drain end solves all of these concerns. Also, using a tee in the line will result in air movement in the leg that is not obstructed. This looks like a definite KISS project.

Pete
 
Pete, good to see you back on the forum.

My problem is that it does not drain overboard, but into a sump that I am physically too large to reach. When I find my skinny tech to replace the nearby bilge pump and switch, I will have him/her take a look at this, though it will be extremely awkward to get any suction device down there. This is the biggest ergonomic flaw in my boat's design, exacerbated by a subsequent bow thruster installation. I should have said "suck" instead of "blow" re: the down stream access point in the generator room. A common transposition of terms as we all know.
 
I have to somewhat agree with Pete here all...A clogged drain is not Rocket Science :rolleyes:

The best thing to do to test the drain is to poor water down it...Get a picture of water & poor it into the pan...If it won't drain a quart or so in less than a minute...You have a restriction that needs to be cleared....Simple enough...

The problem if there...Will Not Go Away By Itself...How ever you choose to clear it is up to you...You can't hurt it with compressed air, and if it blows a hose off then you had a big problem that needed to be addressed anyway....
Suck/Blow...Who cares...It's All Good & I wouldn't complain either way :cool:

There is however one other possibility that could be more of a problem than a drain restriction...

If the unit iced up...It could have iced up outside of the drain pans catch area...Thus the water all over & draining into the gen room below when the compressor finally did cycle & the warmer cabin air melts the ice...

Slow fan in a cold cabin can be a reason for this, and low refrigerant is another...Or a clogged return filter....And/Or a slight Combo of All...

George...Is the compressor hot ?...Also watch for icing on the tubing of the unit in the engine room...If it's icing there...It will be icing in the cabin and you need to find that problem before you take out a compressor...

Steve~
 
I think I will put that T in this week, blow gently upwards and down, followed by some distilled white vinegar drained down or blown up. Something tells me a dirty air filter played a role, though it didn't look exceptionally dirty.

A dirty air filter can lead to iceing up and the melt water from this may overflow the catch pan. Had that issue on the trawler. Also a T in the line near the air handler (pointed up with a short hose attached) can help water flow, especially if there is a low dip along the drain line.

Bobk
 
George,

Good to have some time to get back to the forum, something I much rather do than all the legal crap that has kept our boat at the dock way too much. Hope all of that distraction is settling out, so I can get back to the good life.

Pete
 

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