A/C condensate line

[wpc691]

If I had asked this before now, I wouldn't have a problem to fix, but... I found the carpet on starboard master floor wet, and found the air handler condensate pan full and running over. The ell/drain line joint under the pan appears covered with caulk (maybe just gunk?), and since the pan appears integral to the radiator, getting in that side looks difficult. I tried to find the drain end of the line without success. It goes forward behind the muffler, and disappears behind the closet. I could not find the end in the engine room. The drawing for the A/C system is no help, as it shows the line exiting the transom inboard of the exhaust. So, 2 questions: 1. Does anybody know where this drain terminates? 2. Can the radiator/pan be disassembled without risk of cracking a refrigerant line? Thanks for any input.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

In 1985, the condensate lines terminated at either a shower sump or a seachest drain.

 

[Pascal]

The older cruisairnair handlers had the drain under the pan. Problem is that hatteras didn't allow enough slope for them to drain properly.

On the 53s the drains go to the sea chests Sometimes you get lucky and can undo the hose and blow thru to clear the blockage

I ve never understood why so many builders screw up these drains ...

 

[Thelog]

I recently had a similar issue. My solution was to add a couple of bottle caps full of bleach through a long funnel to the pan, and within ten minutes the obstruction was cleared.

 

[Red Hatt]

I just go to the sea chest that the condensation line goes to and use a wet vac and attach it to the hose and suck the stuff out twice a year. good luck

 

[wpc691]

Thanks for the responses. I'll let you know what I find. I'm not aware that my boat has any sea chests - as far as I know, every drain and raw water intake ends at a thru-hull. Maybe I'll discover something new.

 

[trogers]

I just go to the sea chest that the condensation line goes to and use a wet vac and attach it to the hose and suck the stuff out twice a year. good luck

Anyone know where the salon condensate line terminates on the 56 FDMY?

My condensate line is not flowing and the overflow pan is leaking and dribbling into the VIP stateroom.

Incidentally; Mother-in-law is visiting and she does not enjoy water dripping onto her head!

Appreciate thoughts/ideas on this thread. I will try the cap full of bleach and the blowing some air into the hose to try and clear the blockage.

Right now I can only chase the solution from the top down as I'm not sure which sump the condensate line terminates into to course of action of addressing from the sump side of the puzzle.

 

[wpc691]

Turns out this condensate line terminates at a thru-hull right below the forward port light. I'll get down there with the dinghy tomorrow. The salon condensate line terminates at a thru-hull on the stbd side next to the generator exhaust. The V-berth line terminates in the forward bilge; when I get to my shower sump project, it will terminate at the to-be-installed Gulper box. Biocide tabs now in the salon and V-berth pans; going in the aft pan tomorrow after I clean out the bleach.

 

[doc g]

Trogers, the salon drain on my 61 was in the port ER just in front of the forward battery box . I actually had to add a condensate pump with an anti siphon loop as mine was underwater when we were full of fuel and water . Don't add bleach as it will end up on Mommas head and ruin more than your marriage ....Pat

 

[trogers]

Thanks Doc. She is now in the inner berth in the VIP stateroom. Marital harmony advice is ALWAYS appreciated. After so many trips/mobilizations/deployments over our years the fact that Mrs. Rogers is able/willing to put up with me at all is a minor miracle. Add into that mix an entire extra layer of boat nonsense then I have PROOF that she has the patience of a saint!

We currently have a no AC rule for the salon until addressed. This is partially to protect the mother in law from drips / partially to protect the wood work. No inference of priority or the response model.

I did manage to get the hose disconnected from the AC unit drain pain.

I used a 1/8" x 10' foot plumber snake on it last night. The hose is longer than 10 feet though. The first 10 feet took some 'encouragement' with the snake, but eventually I got through it,

I also used a shop vac to try to blow out and draw out any obstructions. My paranoia is that I have taken 10' of hose obstructions and amassed them just the other side of the reach of my 10' plumber's snake.

I did pour a few cups of water down the hose courtesy of a red solo cup. The cup had been appropriately Christened before it was re-tasked with water testing role. The second and third cups of water were a bit reluctant to flow. That infers that the stoppage is in the latter portion of the hose - something after the 10' mark that I have cleared via the snake.

I'm going to try an electrician's fish tape on Friday. If it wasn't so darn hard to get to the hose clamp under the AC unit I would roll the dice and re-assemble the condensate hose and pray for no over flows from the condensate catch pan in the AC unit

The saga continues.....

 

[bobk]

Thanks Doc. She is now in the inner berth in the VIP stateroom. Marital harmony advice is ALWAYS appreciated. After so many trips/mobilizations/deployments over our years the fact that Mrs. Rogers is able/willing to put up with me at all is a minor miracle. Add into that mix an entire extra layer of boat nonsense then I have PROOF that she has the patience of a saint!

We currently have a no AC rule for the salon until addressed. This is partially to protect the mother in law from drips / partially to protect the wood work. No inference of priority or the response model.

I did manage to get the hose disconnected from the AC unit drain pain.

I used a 1/8" x 10' foot plumber snake on it last night. The hose is longer than 10 feet though. The first 10 feet took some 'encouragement' with the snake, but eventually I got through it,

I also used a shop vac to try to blow out and draw out any obstructions. My paranoia is that I have taken 10' of hose obstructions and amassed them just the other side of the reach of my 10' plumber's snake.

I did pour a few cups of water down the hose courtesy of a red solo cup. The cup had been appropriately Christened before it was re-tasked with water testing role. The second and third cups of water were a bit reluctant to flow. That infers that the stoppage is in the latter portion of the hose - something after the 10' mark that I have cleared via the snake.

I'm going to try an electrician's fish tape on Friday. If it wasn't so darn hard to get to the hose clamp under the AC unit I would roll the dice and re-assemble the condensate hose and pray for no over flows from the condensate catch pan in the AC unit

The saga continues.....

Tim,

I think there are two possible sources of the pluggage, dust/lint or algea. If you have not cleaned the coils recently, try that and suck on the drain line while pouring water into it. if that doesn't fix it, add some diluted bleach and let it drain through. Repeat a few times and then go for the shop vac.

I didn't read the earlier posts so if this has been discussed already, please ignore.

Bobk

 

[Tim Powell]

If I had asked this before now, I wouldn't have a problem to fix, but... I found the carpet on starboard master floor wet, and found the air handler condensate pan full and running over. The ell/drain line joint under the pan appears covered with caulk (maybe just gunk?), and since the pan appears integral to the radiator, getting in that side looks difficult. I tried to find the drain end of the line without success. It goes forward behind the muffler, and disappears behind the closet. I could not find the end in the engine room. The drawing for the A/C system is no help, as it shows the line exiting the transom inboard of the exhaust. So, 2 questions: 1. Does anybody know where this drain terminates? 2. Can the radiator/pan be disassembled without risk of cracking a refrigerant line? Thanks for any input.

I had sorta the same issue during the hot hot days condition was heavy. I fish therefor i had a lot of wire and cable, I could not find the discharge holes. I stuck wire in the lines but it did not reach the discharge area i went bigger and use cable (glued the end of a ink pen push button end on the cable) bingo it went to the discharge point found all four outlets. Used the shop vac with the little attachments stuck it in the drain hole tried sucking could not tell but blowing all of them came clean. THAT IS THE BUBBA WAY !! Be sure the coils are clean i put small filters on mine available at west marine they just side in and out.

 

[wpc691]

I had sorta the same issue during the hot hot days condition was heavy. I fish therefor i had a lot of wire and cable, I could not find the discharge holes. I stuck wire in the lines but it did not reach the discharge area i went bigger and use cable (glued the end of a ink pen push button end on the cable) bingo it went to the discharge point found all four outlets. Used the shop vac with the little attachments stuck it in the drain hole tried sucking could not tell but blowing all of them came clean. THAT IS THE BUBBA WAY !! Be sure the coils are clean i put small filters on mine available at west marine they just side in and out.

Thanks, the coils definitely need cleaning. I'll look for those filters at Worst Marine - there are pieces of window screen in there now, they catch leaves and sticks, not much else.

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

Thanks, the coils definitely need cleaning. I'll look for those filters at Worst Marine - there are pieces of window screen in there now, they catch leaves and sticks, not much else.

After vacuuming the coils, you might apply coil cleaner from Home Depot. You’ll be surprised what the vacuum left behind. The HD stuff has a stiff bristle brush in the cap that is helpful. Smells good too.