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'74 36 Convertible Survey Questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter whaler23
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whaler23

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Jun 19, 2005
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622
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
36' CONVERTIBLE-Series I (1969 -1977)
Had a 1974 36C surveyed yesterday with a few disappointments that I need opinions on. Boat was repainted by current owner several years back and looks great. My main concerns were the original mechanicals. 3160 Cats with 1400 hours (reported) on starboard and 400 on rebuilt Port. Engines started fine and idled well. More smoke on Stbd than Port. Light Blue which never really went away once warm. Smoked slightly more under load than Port as well, although not much. Boat only ran about twenty minutes when Stbd. high water temp went off. 195 Degrees. Pulled off plane and moved ahead at idle until she cooled back down to 165. Surveyor noted a leaking raw water pump under higher RPM's no leak at idle. Back at dock appeared to be unburnt fuel in exhaust of Stbd engine. No unusual sounds from engine, ran WOT at about 2850. Cruise per owner is around 2500-2600 which I believe is the 90% recommended. Looking for opinions on this condition or experience with 3160/3208 engines. Naturals. Also, aft bulkhead is rotted at the base across the beam of the boat. No wet or mushy wood just remnants of significant rot at one time. I.E. the leaks were stopped but the damage remains. What complications will I run into replacing this rotted section of the aft bulkhead. Thanks for the input.
 
What was your cuising speed and ypur WOT speed??
 
Cruising speed 18 mph, wide open 22-23
 
I would give serious consideration to rebuilding in place, provided you have access to it in order to work on BOTH sides. This can be done with CPES, the corresponding L&L resin, and doubler wood as a form/frame.

If that is not possible, then evaluate replacement of the damaged wood in light of how bad access is to the damaged area, and how localized it is. Bulkhead damage at the top is not structural, but at the bottom IS, and needs to be repaired.

The engine issue may be a matter of neglected maintenance, but frankly, I'd consider the engines needing rebuilds at least and strongly consider a repower if you can get the deduction (which you should!) off the asking price for the required engine work.

As with all boats, there will be issues. The question is whether the asking price fairly reflects those issues already, or whether you need to demand an allowance for them and then do the work.
 
My friend David Sommers replaced this bulkhead in his 36 convertible, which is identical to the one you are looking at. I will try to get him to post something on it. He is the only one I know outside Slane Marine who has done the entire bulkhead. I have done parts of mine- it is a common area for rot in these boats as it is exposed to weather and water gets into it.
The plywood bulkhead goes all the way to the hull. However it is made in a top section and a bottom one- I think David replaced only the part from the aft deck pan up. It is two layers of 3/4" marine plywood.
If I were doing this, I would use 1.5" Coosa panel instead. It is lighter than plywood by far, can't ever rot, and glues well with epoxy. It also doesn't splinter. We replaced damaged areas of my boat with Coosa material and it has held up very well.
 
Greetings all and Whaler,

Actually the bulkhead consists of two layers of marine ply one is 3/4 the other 1/2. Once you commit to replacing it, it is fairly straight forward, but not a one afternoon project. The cost is mainly the time and the price of a couple of sheets of marine ply and some glass and epoxy. I used thinned penatrating epoxy to penatrate all the wood prior to glassing it over on the outsides to make it more durable. Jim's idea of using a cousa panel or similar modern alternative would also work.

If the entire bulkhead is rotted across the bottom also check the condition of the top of the transverse bulkhead at the aft end of engine room. This is directly under the rotted area and will probably have some as well. Mine did and was easily repaired once the aft cabin bulkhead is out.

The 3160's are an old engine and that's why they smoke a bit. the one showing fuel in the exhaust is probably tired but not necessarily dead. might just need new or cleaned injectors, etc... The long term answer is of course a repower with lighter newer and more powerful cats. If you are changing out the bulkhead, this is the time to swing in new engines as it is much easier than having to go through the door.

I have other pics of the bulhead process, but here are a few to show you the basic steps. http://www.divehatteras.com/repower.htm

Where is this boat and how much?
 
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I had a 1973 36' Hatteras and it also had 3160's. I put a total of 3500 hours on those engines and they never missed a beat! I will say they smoked a bit and they would occasionally put fuel out at the exhaust, but also I have heard that the 3160's and the 3208 naturals were noted for this. The 36' is a great classic! Even today they still look stylish. If you are buying the 36' that I saw in the Yacht World with the yellow hull I would go for it if I didn't already have a boat! As far as the back bulk head a good carpenter could have it removed in a day and replaced in 3. I wouldn't let that stop you from buying the boat. Being in the boaters world as long as I have every boat has its issues. Good luck.
 
Thanks for all the responses. Below is a link to the boat, yes it's the one on Yachtworld. Purchase price is a hair below 100K right now, but depending on issues with engine could go lower. Owners mechanic is starting with new raw water pump, impeller and heat exchanger boil, we'll see what she does after that. I feel much better about the bulkhead issue and did note that the rot is above the deck pan with no detectable rot in the aft engine room bulkhead immediately below. More than likely if I can live with it I will wait and do a repower and repair at the same time. I already found a spare engine in Solomons Md that I could buy for around 4500.00 as a just in case for the short term, not yet decided on that though. I will keep everybody updated on this boat. Thanks again.

http://www.yachtworld.com/core/list...&units=Feet&checked_boats=1371690&slim=quick&
 
reviewed photos, she looks real nice. I think that if the engines ck out ok then it would be considered a deal at the price you are talking about.

in addition to the elbow and pump, i would have them do an injector service then take her out for another run.


another question, how old are the windows?
 
The frames are original with some pitting on the interior and no open holes requiring repair. The glass was replaced with a tinted glass about 3 years ago when the boat was painted. I am also looking for projects and how to's on filling in the front windshield glassing it over and removing the lower helm. Don't even own it yet and I already have three years of projects picked out. Happens every time...
 
Whaler, FYI We have owned the '71 36c Kathy L since '81. We are in the process of re-fit for the third time. Last time we glassed in the wind shield, removed the lower station etc. This time out with gas in with Cummins QSB 330's, new side windows, all new thru hull's etc.,etc,etc. Bottom line it's a Hatt! Have a lot of info. If you go forword let me know, we'll talk. John
 
Nice looking boat....price is too high at 118K. Old engines and slow. A reasonable repower for that boat would be 3208T Cats, as rebuilds. They will fit under the deck, bolt right in, adn make the boat go faster. Note that 3208TAs will NOT fit, they are too tall. If the boat passes a stiff survey and engine survey, go for it. They are wonderful boats, I love mine. If you get it at a decent price, you will have a lot of fun with it.
 
Jim, At this stage we are around 90-93K with the engine receiving a new raw water pump and running at correct temp. Thanks for the feedback. Final negotiations to conclude next Monday or Tuesday.
 
That sounds reasonable based on how she looks in the pictures. A friend of mine pointed out to me that those motors, which are naturals, will last a very long time. If they are healthy, I think it is a good value for the money. If you are in the area and want to see what I did to turn the Vberth into an offset double bunk, let me know.
 
I now own this boat, you know what they say, the first day and the last day, anyway, I'm happy so far. The engine received a new CAT Raw Water Pump, a new CAT Heat Exchanger, a Diverter Valve, Thermostat and related Housing, and all runs very well. I also got a written warranty on all parts for a year and labor for 90 days. I think I did ok, plus got a price reduction for other small items on the boat. Early next week the boat will be moved from Urbanna, VA to Solomons, MD. Look forward to talking with all on this forum and appreciate all the help so far.
 
whaler 23, I also have a 1974 36 Hatt. Would like to discuss if possible several items. IF YOU WILL CONTACT ME AT CHANGEORDER2@AOL.COM thanks
 
Congratulations!!
You will get lot's of satisfaction whether you are working on t or running it. The series I 36's are just wonderful boats! ;)
 
Whaler, if you are planning to attend the Annapolis Powerboat Show let me know. If you would like to look at my 36C, I can show you how to redo the Vberth into an offset double.
I just had delivered a new bed for said double, courtesy of Capt Coop who hooked me up with a mattress manufacturer in Richmond who will make them in any shape. After 13 years of sleeping, or trying to, on a piece of foam, I am in "tall cotton". Better than my bed at home, and rocks too. :D
 
Who is the mattress manufacturer? I’d like to get off the foam also.
 
jim rosenthal said:
I just had delivered a new bed for said double, courtesy of Capt Coop who hooked me up with a mattress manufacturer in Richmond who will make them in any shape.

What is the name of the manufacturer, and approximately what kind of cost? I have priced some of the Florida suppliers, but they wanted almost $3K for a queen with the corners cut off.
Tom
 

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