6-71tic blower removal

[rmaher]

It was a lot off work to get to the blower opening but did and there does appear to be oil at the end plates and oil streaks across the blower blades. Assuming this means a seal, anyone had any experience and/or can offer any suggestions for best way to remove the blower from the engine? The book makes it look so cut and dry ....

Robbie

 

[Genesis]

It is pretty cut and dry, but it is also a f##$@#ing mess.

The book has the procedure; its also pretty obvious on inspection. The only "trick" is the blower driveshaft which is retained by a INSIDE c-clip in the gear train. DO NOT DROP THAT CLIP INTO THE GEAR TRAIN! Its pretty easy to do and you don't want to know how much work you just made for yourself if you do it. Stuff a rag into the open area to prevent it from falling down in there if you slip while removing it.

The reason its a mess is that the blower retains a lot of oil and so does the governor; when you remove it the oil WILL make a hell of a mess. Oh well.

Replacement SHOULD use a blower drive alignment checking tool, but the shaft itself will work for that purpose if you're careful. The key is that the drive must not bind.

Due to the fact that you are slightly altering the geometry between the governor and control tube and must remove the governor rod from the control tube in order to do this, a full tune-up is required after the blower is replaced.

 

[Will]

WOA!
Are you sure you need to remove the blower? A little oil in there (dampness or a few thin streaks) is not a problem and there are sources other than the blower seals, like the crankcase breather vent or turbo. On the other hand, a lot of oil IS a problem.
Will

 

[Genesis]

Yeah, how's oil consumption? If the blower seals are leaking to any material degree it usually shows up in oil consumption numbers.

 

[rmaher]

Certainly more than normal but more visibly, I have a blue cloud behind me that doesn't go away.

 

[Genesis]

Ok, you got oil coming somewhere.

Check the intake pipe. Is it clean? (If you're pulling it over via breathers, etc it will be full of oil)

**THE** test is to pull the piping and start the engine with the covers off and shine a flashlight on the end plates of the blower. You can SEE the leaks.

If you get something into the blower when doing this IT WILL BE EATEN, including pieces of YOU. This is rather hazardous procedure BUT it is the seminal test.

If you've got a clean air pipe into the airhorn and oil in the blower, however, well you know where it DIDN'T come from eh?

 

[rmaher]

Air intake pipe is clean. 2nd guessing myself (and pulling the screen off the blower this time - having read your many warnings, Karl, I was a little leary at 1st), I got a closer look and could easily seeing oil spirting in pulses out of the rear seal on the blower.

Sounds like I'm in for some fun!

 

[Genesis]

It ain't hard. I can pull a blower in an hour or so depending on how much of a pain in the butt the fuel lines and such are to get off. There's no real magic to it and it doesn't take long.

The only real issue is the MESS - it is considerable. Have lots of oil pads or rags handy - you're going to need 'em.

Reinstallation is easy too; the tuneup takes longer than replacing the blower does.

 

[rmaher]

Well, it only took me about 3 hours (or 3 times longer than Karl but I consider that positive for me!) Karl, you were right, an oily mess but given your fair warning, I had lots of oil absorbers and a couple of foil oven pans to assist.

Anyone know anything of Dyer's Blowers? They will rebuilt the unit for $395 which seems to be the going price but I have to ship it as I can't seem to find anyone local to Annapolis/DC area.

Rob

 

[Genesis]

On the re-install THE KEY is to make SURE the driveshaft does not bind.

There is an "alignment tool" for this purpose (basically a shaft with the splines and a handle on the end) that you use to test that it goes in and out easily and doesn't "hang up", moving the blower slightly until all is good. If you're careful you can also do this with the drive shaft itself, as it has a spring on the end that will (should) pop it back out if the alignment is good. The shaft should slide in and out without ANY hanging up; if it DOES hang up the blower is out of alignment with the coupler. Alignment is set by moving the blower very slightly; it is not "pinned" or otherwise "hard" located on the block.

It is very important that the shaft NOT bind as if it does you can break the blower driveshaft while the engine is running which immediately leaves you with a non-running motor and/or damage to the bearings or splines, usually in the blower (although it is theoretically possible to damage them in the drive end of the gear train)

 

[newinlet]

If any one is in the need for a good Detroit guy in the Boston area I just used these guys to pull a cylinder head. I think they have Detroit parts in stock they treated me very fair and did a clean proper job 617-241-5335 steve's boat shop .