45C Forward Bilge Question

[solanderi]

I am not sure if this is unique to the 45C (1985) but would guess other models must have similar issues.

There is a 12v bus bar in the forward bilge that always seems like it is having corrosion issues above and beyond. I have hung upside down repairing a float switch / bilge pump issue "For The Last Time" now about 3 times in the last 4 years. Usually every issue relates to this exposed bus bar corroding. I have made all connections with Ancor shrink wrap connectors, battery terminal protector spray etc but the bus bar is the root of all problems.

Should I move the bus connector into one of the side storage compartments above the floor ? Anyone else vexxed with the forward bilge wiring?

Thank you,

Greg
1985 45C
Hat Time
N. Bay Village, FL

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Are you refering to the grounding/bonding bar? If so, it sounds like you have an appliance or device with a ground leak like the fridge or battery system etc. ws

Notice green wire on port and starboard side adjacent to the bilge pump...

 

[solanderi]

Imagine your power to the bilge pump going into a bus bar (I think thats what they are called) and then the shower sump bilge and float as well as the float switch and forward bilge coming off that. I think I'll save a 1000 words and just submit a photo later. Thank you,

Greg
1885 45C
Hat Time

 

[Tim Powell]

I am not sure if this is unique to the 45C (1985) but would guess other models must have similar issues.

There is a 12v bus bar in the forward bilge that always seems like it is having corrosion issues above and beyond. I have hung upside down repairing a float switch / bilge pump issue "For The Last Time" now about 3 times in the last 4 years. Usually every issue relates to this exposed bus bar corroding. I have made all connections with Ancor shrink wrap connectors, battery terminal protector spray etc but the bus bar is the root of all problems.

Should I move the bus connector into one of the side storage compartments above the floor ? Anyone else vexxed with the forward bilge wiring?

Thank you,

Greg
1985 45C
Hat Time
N. Bay Village, FL

Greg
I just looked in my bilge I do not have one that i can see.. The sump pump is there and the bilge pump, Mine is a 1986 45c I DO NOT KNOW WHAT THAT MEANS BUT IT IS NOT THERE.i WOULD NOT SEE THE REASON IT IS ON A CIRCUIT BRAKER. IF YOU STILL HAVE THE WIRING DIGRAMS U CAN TELL IF IT WAS ADDED OR NOT.I LOOKED AT MY WHIRING DIAGRAM IT DOES NOT SHOW ONE TIGHT LINES TIM

 

[Genesis]

I had that busbar up there in my boat.

I was able to keep it under control with Boeshield T9 after cleaning it up the first time....

 

[GOLE IV]

Gole IV (45C Series I) had a "terminal block" in the top of the aft bulkhead ( below the floor, both positive and negative wires for the sump and the bilge pump were connected to it
I eliminated the terminal block, connected service wires and device wires directly and protected with liquid tape.

Every Pump in the boat is installed (and remains) same way with terminal block close to the pump.

There is a grounding foil along both the Port and starboard stringers.

Maybe on your boat they use a combination of terminal block for the positive wires and a buss bar for the negative connection. In this case the negative wiring has to be sized correctly

 

[George]

Root cause is the water. solve that, and you solve your bus bar issue. I have dripless shaft and rudder seals. I get a little water in there from time to time, and I hit that small amount with the wet vac to get it out.

 

[Genesis]

That forward bilge area takes spray from the foredeck down the anchor line hawse and in heavy seas it can take quite a bit. It also of course takes the drippage from the line when you stow it while retrieving the anchor, as the locker drains there. The shower sump is also there but that's "freshish" water (gray, but not salty)

The block on my boat was up as high as it reasonably could be - it's just a high-humidity place, as is the one in the lazarette over the rudder table. Both were for crap when I bought the boat but I was able to keep both under control after cleaning them up. The lazarette one I actually had to replace if I remember correctly as it was too wasted to do much with.

 

[solanderi]

Thanx for the posts, I havent got the pics up yet. What purpose does the bus connector serve? Is it just a time saver for the guy wiring the boat ? As Karl points out, the forward bilge is a high humidity enviroment at best ! The BoShield is great, but still not "bullet-proof" IMHO.

The "pre-flight" russian roulette with this nagging little situation is annoying.

Maybe I am better off just eliminating the bus bar and directly making all of the connections with ancor shrink wrap butt-end connectors and liquid electric tape. Then just zip tie the whole shooting match together. Pics forth-coming,

Greg

 

[Megalodon45C]

Had the same issues when i first got the boat. Get yourself a nice wet/dry vac and suck the whole bilge dry after each trip. I also go once a week and check on the boat. Humidity, after a big rain time to suck out the bilge. Also spray everything down with a light coating of WD40 after corrosion is off.
hope this helps

 

[solanderi]

FWIW,

Maybe this is an upgraded and more suitable bus connector because of its apparent "beefier" parts and the cover cant hurt. The part I'm referring to is the#2722 DualBus by Blue Seas (you have to scroll down on the web site to find Part # 2722). It only provides 5 pos / neg posts per unit but I think it will work for me.

http://www.12volt.com.au/General Htmls/pdf/Switches/Blue Sea/Connectors.pdf

I will let the HOF hear about my progress. Thanks for the replies.

Greg