45 Hatt Restore

[captadamr]

We are in the process of restoring out 71 45' Hatt
We are set to remove the side windows in first week of Jan, do they come out from the inside? Has anyone else taken them out? Any tricks learned along the way would be appreciated

Thanks
Adam

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Hey Cap-- I dont know about the windows, but I like the Camo paint job.All kidding aside, I know you have your work cut out for yourself! ws

 

[Starman]

Are there not any screws showing on the outside of the window frame ?

If not, slide the window forward, look past the felt that the window slides against and you should see some screw heads . Check the top, bottom and both ends on the interior of that window frame.

If the screw heads are worn, just drill them out.

 

[GOLE IV]

hello - I am on the same process, and have remove the glass from the windows few times before to replace broken glass.

The windows comes out from the outside of the boat. The forward sliding piece first, You should find a small block of wood inside the top track to avoid the glass to move back. ( some times another on the bottom track)

Remove this block, Move the glass few inches back. Then up and out of the lower track. Then follow the same process with the back glass.

Good luck, I just started on the outside Paint job.

regards

 

[Starman]

As Gole 1V stated on removing the glass itself is right, I should have mentioned that removing the glass first makes for a much lighter frame to be removed.

I am assuming you are removing the entire frame ?

 

[Starman]

Those "camo" stripes serve a good purpose, but using a 5-6" DA ?

I am using a pnuematic 8"X18" sander ( orbital ) to find those high and low spots.

Darn thing works fantastic, but it will surely work the ole' joints

 

[yachtsmanbill]

I saw your guy using the 8X18. Do they make electric ones? When I sanded the 20 years of Aces' best alkyd off the Roamer I went through REAMS of 3M paper on a finish sander and then discovered the 5" R-O velcro job. The random orbitals cut the work by at least half. I cut the paint with 100 and then again with 180 as per awlgrip orders. Turned out like white chrome. I think a HVLP sprayer is next on the Xmas list! ws

 

[jim rosenthal]

Adam,

The glass panes come out from the outside of the boat if they are like other Hatteras Yachts of that vintage. You remove the little blocks that keep them from sliding too far, and then lift the glass pane up to free the lower edge from the track and tilt it outwards clear of the frame, then the window comes out. They are heavy and this is a two person job to be done safely. (on the 36C it is one person, but your windows will be quite a bit bigger and heavier)

The frames are removed, I THINK, from the outside of the boat, but isn't there an inside frame too? I can't recall and my boat isn't here. Sam's can tell you that one.

You have got a big job on your hands, but she will look great when you are done. Please keep photos coming. You might want to reduce the photo size a bit- the images are HUGE as they come up.

 

[captadamr]

Those "camo" stripes serve a good purpose, but using a 5-6" DA ?

I am using a pnuematic 8"X18" sander ( orbital ) to find those high and low spots.

Darn thing works fantastic, but it will surely work the ole' joints

just what they use over here in good ole bahama land. hell we get a better quality paint job for 1/2 the price. Speaking of quality, I was very upset when we hauled the 36 express yesterday. As the yard guys were powerwashing the bottom, all the paint applied by the yard in Fort Pierce game peeling off. They didnt apply a barrier coat between the old micron paints and the new ones, so now they had to sand off all the paint we paid mucho$ to have applied in Ft. Pierce off

We are applying Imron on this boat, they will spray when we are away for christmas in Chicago.
So this will be my last post for a week, wishing a Safe and Enjoyable holiday season TO ALL!!

 

[Maynard Rupp]

Adam, one more little note. I have mentioned this in earlier threads. Many times, my boat included, the weight of the flybridge has put a slight sag in the top rail of the window frame. If you removed the block and slid the glass aft a little the glass may lift out, but more likely will lack about 1/16" of making it out. Buy a little bottle jack at a place like Harbor Freight for less than ten bucks. Use 2 small wood blocks and jack the frame apart to gain clearence for glass removal. Before re-installing the glass, change the lower sliders and those fuzzies. Make a replacement for the wood block out of starboard as the wood block absorbs salt and is a huge source of frame corrosion. If your frames are OK, I would tape them and paint the boat. No one seems to have found anything better than the original anodized finish for those frames and they are tricky to re-install. Read a recent thread about using " pinch weld" windshield installing stuff; it comes on a roll and is available in several different diameters. Much better than slopping caulk everywhere. Don't use 5200, God can't seperate parts caulked with that stuff.

 

[OVERSPRAY]

Not to be off topic of the windows, I'm assuming your camo stripes are a guide coat. There is a product called dychem or dykem, can't remember the spelling, It is a blue liquid put rubbed on the hull with a rag, or a black talc powder you can get at the auto body supply store. aerosol guide coats can tend to clog the sand paper, the dye or the powder will make sandpaper life alot longer and you can see high/lows easier. Looks good, I had to grind mine all the way down through 8 layers of who knows what to the bare gell. 40g on an 8" high speed grinder. I'll be blocking my but off for a while.