I have tried to photograph this in the past, but no luck. In order to see it, it requires an ultra wide angle lens that I don't have for the digital camera I have. I've asked around and I don't know anyone with a digital camera with a lens that wide. However, with the boat due to go back in the water in the next month, the interior will get cleaned up and I can try again to locate what I need to get photos.
In the meantime, this verbal account of what we did. The boat is a 1971 36 C; whether these ideas are applicable to later 36s or 37s is anyone's guess. I am not enough familiar with them to accurately say.
1) the original interior of the 36C has a V-berth and includes a filler piece that can be put in the middle (I am doing this part from memory since the conversion was done so long ago)
2) Below each bunk are wide shallow bureau-type drawers. On the port side. we took these out and set them aside. The starboard side was left untouched.
3) In the center of the V-berth, down low, are (IIRC) two smaller drawers, and below them a hinged door. We left the door in and set the two drawers aside.
4) To the port side, we sawed the drawer guides and supports out, leaving a large rectangular opening where the wide drawers had been fitted. This areas was boxed in and a pair of teak doors made to fit to close off that opening. (If I were doing this now, I would use afromosia, to match the rest of the interior, but I didn't know it was available back then)
5) To the port side, we took the finished wooden rail off the side of the bunk surface, and set it aside.
6) The stateroom bulkhead was fitted with a full-length mirror to the inside of the bulkhead, to port as you entered the stateroom. This was taken down and set aside.
7) The stateroom door was removed and (you guessed it!) set aside. At this point we had a lot of the stateroom furnishings and elements on the aft deck of the boat.
8) The support surface of the portside bunk, the part you set the mattress on, was extended towards the center of the stateroom, using (I think) 3/4" marine plywood. This rests on the original structure and also on a support cleat screwed and glued to the stateroom aft bulkhead, dividing the space where the full-length mirror used to be.
9) The wooden rail was re-installed, modified to fit, and finishes the edges of the new portside bunk surface.
10) The mirror was cut to half its original height, and reinstalled above the bunk on the port side aft bulkhead.
11) The four drawers removed from the area in the middle of the original V-berth and under the portside bunk were measured, and a bureau was fabricated to fit them- the two small ones on top and below them the two large ones. This bureau structure was made to fit in the starboard side bunk, set back from the original wooden rail, against the slanting side of the hull. Since there is no longer a mattress on the starboard side, that horizontal surface is used for the bureau. I should have made the drawer supports sturdier as they have given trouble over the years, but not enough to take it all out and do it over.
12) At this point, the stateroom had a full length but tapered bed area on the port side, ample storage (although the storage below the portside bunk area isn't all that easy to get to) and much less standing room than it did in its original configuration. The door to the stateroom, which was previously hinged on the left so that it folded into the room and secured against the area of the bulkhead which had the full-length mirror, was now turned upside down and reinstalled so that it hinges from the RIGHT side, and folds back, into the room, securing against the starboard side bed rail. It probably could have been left the original way, but getting into the bunk is a lot easier with the door relocated to hinge to the right instead of the left.
13) I had a custom mattress made up for the uniquely-shaped bunk area. This involved getting a template drawn up and sending it to a mattress company in Richmond, VA, who started with a queen mattress and modified it to fit. It is actually much more comfortable than the one I have at home. I have had a couple of sets of custom fitted sheets made for it. I can use regular queen bed sheets, but they are way too large side to side.
If I were doing this conversion now, I would:
-use afromosia veneer plywood instead of teak for the new cabinet doors and the bureau.
-make the drawer supports heavier.
-consider putting in storage under the port bunk, instead of doors, which are kind of hard to get to anyway.
The bunk to port is about the size of a double bed at the head, and tapers about forty percent to the foot. It has not been a problem sleeping two in it, though. It's cozy but not too cozy.
Hope this is helpful and again if I can find a wideangle camera or lens I will post some photos.
There would be no way to make a centerline double on mine. 
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