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16V92 TA starter problems

  • Thread starter Thread starter stimmy
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stimmy

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Oct 6, 2016
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
65' CONV -Series I (1986 - 1998)
When starting engines today, port lit right up, starboard, nothing.
In checking, inboard starter solenoid was not delivering voltage to armature and when I took it off, the coil ohmmed out bad.
question 1: Where do you get parts for these detroits? Auto parts stores were no help. I am in Stuart, Fl and Miami detroit dealer said they had the solenoid; anyone have any luck getting parts online?
question 2: These engines each have 2 starters, but apparently, I've only been starting, at least on starboard, on one which just quit. The outboard starter is more difficult to access, so I haven't diagnosed it yet. With 4 starters on the boat, I'd like to have a spare; anyone have a good source?
Maybe both engines have been starting on just one starter. How necessary is the second?
 
When starting engines today, port lit right up, starboard, nothing.
In checking, inboard starter solenoid was not delivering voltage to armature and when I took it off, the coil ohmmed out bad.
question 1: Where do you get parts for these detroits? Auto parts stores were no help. I am in Stuart, Fl and Miami detroit dealer said they had the solenoid; anyone have any luck getting parts online?
question 2: These engines each have 2 starters, but apparently, I've only been starting, at least on starboard, on one which just quit. The outboard starter is more difficult to access, so I haven't diagnosed it yet. With 4 starters on the boat, I'd like to have a spare; anyone have a good source?
Maybe both engines have been starting on just one starter. How necessary is the second?

good luck get the ky out

http://www.fdda.com/Locations.aspx
 
My 16-92s have Delco starters. Parts and solenoids are available from any good starter/alternator shop. I use East Coast Battery in Fort Lauderdale. Each starter should have its own set of batteries.
 
The starter motors and parts are readily available.. I think they are Delco 50MT's..be sure and check the Kelsey Haynes solenoid in the battery isolator fuse box. If that solenoid is bad, it won't throw voltage to the starter motor.
 
The starter motors and parts are readily available.. I think they are Delco 50MT's..be sure and check the Kelsey Haynes solenoid in the battery isolator fuse box. If that solenoid is bad, it won't throw voltage to the starter motor.

Thanks for the reply. I knew there had to be another contactor somewhere since the bat terminal on the starter is not live until you hit the start button. When I checked voltage at the bat terminal, there was 27 volts present while the start button was pressed, so the contactor must be OK. Is there a separate Kelsey Haynes for each starter or each pair of starters? I haven't opened the battery isolator fuse box yet.
I found new solenoids online for $45 each, delivered; from the local Detroit dealer they were $230 each. The complete starters online were $295 delivered and over $800 locally.
 
For electrical items such as starters, solenoids and alternators, stay far away from DDA dealers.

Do each of your four starters have a dedicated battery disconnect? Do they each draw from their own set of batteries?
 
Last edited:
For electrical items such as starters, solenoids and alternators, stay far away from DDA dealers.

Do each of your four starters have a dedicated battery disconnect? Do they each draw from their own set of batteries?

I don't know, but I'll be at the boat in a few days and I'll check.
 
I finally sorted it out. I'm not sure if it's original equipment, but next to the starboard batteries, there's a large junction box with a solenoid/contactor in it, that provides voltage to both starters. It's a standard Detroit starter solenoid, but it just has a metal slug instead of the plunger to kick in the gear on a starter.
The contact wheel was badly pitted and black, so I flipped it over and did the same to the 2 contact bolts. When I put it back together, no joy.
So I went through all the fuses with a continuity tester and found a 20 amp glass fuse open. I replaced it and starboard fired right up.
There is a small solenoid in the panel that energizes the big solenoid in the junction box which in turn energizes the 2 starter solenoids. What is the benefit of a 3 tiered system to just turn the starters on? There are 3 times as many components to maintain and troubleshoot.
I understand the current draw of 2 big starters, but the system is unnecessarily complex and difficult to work on.
At least I've done a little preventative maintenance since I found a bad coil on 1 starter solenoid and bad contacts on the solenoid/contactor.
Of course, that means port is probably in the same condition.
 
Are these DDEC engines? If so, they might be using the DDEC 12 VDC to energize a 24VDC contactor to fire the main starter solenoids. In any event, it sounds like a complex solution to a basically simple problem.
 
Everything (small solenoid, big solenoid/contactor, both starter solenoids) is all 24 volt. The engines are original from 1990.
 

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