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12 Volt Bus Block Corrosion Protection

  • Thread starter Thread starter solanderi
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solanderi

Well-known member
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Apr 21, 2005
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377
Hatteras Model
45' CONVERTIBLE-Series II (1984 - 1992)
There are a few 12 volt bus blocks that are relatively more exposed to the elements than any others on my 1985 45C. Namely, forward bilge and aft port outboard stringer which brings power for the aft bilge, high water etc...Despite hitting them with Corrosion Block once every other month they deteriorated and I just completely redid them.

I could tell that the PO did not use high quality stuff for the previous work. I redid them with Ancor shrink wrap terminal connectors and Blue Seas Bus blocks.What can I do to keep them looking good ? More frequent Corrosion Block baths ? How about attaching the bus block to an inverted Ziplock food container top and modify the container part to fit over the wires. Is there anything inherently dangerous to this idea. Thank you,

Greg
1985 45C
Hat Time
 
Preventing corrosion in bilge areas is a challange...I'm not sure there is any practical solution because even with dry bilges humidity in southern climates and during many weather periods in northern climates is more than enough to corrode. Gold plating, dry bilges, dehumidifiers, perhaps silver plating, and corrosion block could work. Enclosing terminals blocks within an airtight container might work...but it might make things worse...Can you vent those areas in a better way??? Can you mount those blocks higher up...say under a floor rather down lower in bilge areas???

Has anyone sprayed terminal blocks with battery terminal protectant...the purple stuff??
Sometimes what contributes to corrosion is dust and dirt...when present it forms a base for moisture to remain that would otherwise dry more quickly...once corrosion starts it also provides a basis for extended moisture/dampness.
 
I use alot of Dielectric Grease. Keeps things happy!!!
JW
 
As noted, coating everything with dielectric grease - including all the terminals BEFORE attaching the wires - will prevent corrosion. I use Permatex dielectric grease (any auto parts store) on virtually all electrical connections, including light bulbs.

Hey - it even will keep old Lucas electrics operational and that's saying something!
 
The worst area on my 45C was the rear terminal block for the trim tab motor complex.

Its in the rear bilge area, there's always a bit of water back there, and its humid and hotter than hell due to the sun beating on the cockpit deck. A close second was the terminal block for the baitwell pump complex (two pumps) sitting on the shelf in front of the rudder table.

The solution was to clean it all up and then spray with Boeshield. Hit it about once every six months and its fine.

Once I got it cleaned up I never had significant problems with it again over several years time..... Boeshield works MUCH better than "Corrosion Block" as the former leaves a waxy seal over the top and keeps the crud from getting in there.
 
As noted, coating everything with dielectric grease - including all the terminals BEFORE attaching the wires - will prevent corrosion. I use Permatex dielectric grease (any auto parts store) on virtually all electrical connections, including light bulbs.

Hey - it even will keep old Lucas electrics operational and that's saying something!


Mike,

Just a question - Is dielectric grease conductive? Do you have to be careful where it can bridge between pos and neg terminals?

Thanks,

Doug
 
No! Any grease labeled "Dielectric Grease" is specifically NOT conductive. Other greases may conduct to some extent depending on their composition. Actually, vaseline works well in this application EXCEPT that it runs easily if the temps are elevated whereas "dielectric grease" does not.
 
Dielectric grease is non conductive. it also used in old gas tank guage sending units between the pickup and the commutator to keep it from wearing. if it was conductive, it wouldn't work very well.--Pete
 
I would replace any non-plated bus bars/ terminal blocks with tin plated quality stuff such as those made by blue seas. Lots of sizes,all have nice protective covers (not to "seal") and in boat bucks, cheap. Then treat as stated in prior posts.
Gary
 
I always wondered how much of this kind of corrosion is due to air that has a salt mist to it. I have one spot with a large 12V buss in the salon that tends to get corroded.

Bob
 
Noone bit on the food container idea to create a micro enviroment friendly to connectors. I have to admit, I don't want my ER to start looking like the inside of a Frigidaire, ha ha......but if it works.....

Regarding what to coat the block with...can someone definitively rank the contestants.

Dielectric grease
Purple stuff (Name ?)
Boeshield
(Vaseline is off the list for the reasons mentioned above)

Hey, why not Rustoleum ?
 
I use NOVODOX and NOCOROD on my stuff. Dielectric grease should do just as well. If you wanna cheat, clean and assemble and paint clear nail polish on them. The judges will be awe struck! ws
 
Nail Polish and Ziplock containers ? ! The forum police are going to send this to the Julia Child site, ha ha.........but then again, if I dont have to hang my head upside down in a bilge stripping wires and inventing new arrangements of profanity....CVS here I come.

But that's why I had the idea about the Rustoleum, I guess if they made a clear coat it would be right on the money. What do you think ?
 
Nail Polish and Ziplock containers ? ! The forum police are going to send this to the Julia Child site, ha ha.........but then again, if I dont have to hang my head upside down in a bilge stripping wires and inventing new arrangements of profanity....CVS here I come.

But that's why I had the idea about the Rustoleum, I guess if they made a clear coat it would be right on the money. What do you think ?


In a word? FUSCIA !! ws
 
I thought the bus bars were made of fire retardant material. I'd worry about putting on something that will ignite easily. Are the anti corrosion greases fire retardant? nail polish and baggies are not.

Bob
 
Di-electric grease is used on extremely high (and low) voltage industrial and commercial connections. I have never heard of it's "flammability" being an issue in any use. But as to its actual classification of flammable or not, you'd have to check the OSHA data sheet for the particular product.
 

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