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Earlier in the process, I noted that the Nidacore was notched in four locations and that solid G-10 fiberglass blocks were glassed in place. The G-10 material is incredibly strong, and can be drilled and tapped. Dan (34Hatt) gave me the idea (and the G-10 blocks) so that the angle support...

Topside is now finished with three coats as well. I only did the edges because non-skid will be used on the bulk of the surface.

Three coats of finish paint have been applied to the underside. Finish paint is Interlux Perfection, applied by "roll and tip" Next step is prepping the top side for finish paint.

I taped the outside face to keep the overspray off, then the underside was sprayed with several coats of Duratec. I sanded in between coats to knock down the high spots and allow the Duratec to fill in the valleys. This will make the final paint a little smoother and easier to clean.

Here it is all trimmed and sanded to finished height. I picked the low spot on the sides, and belt sanded everything down to that point. Overall height is 2-1/4". I left the mounting faces at the transom an extra 1/2" high to make it easier to through bolt to the hull. The entire underside...

Here's a few more pics after flipping it over.

Rather than pulling the platform out of the mold, this mold was designed to be removed from around the platform. After unscrewing all the vertical pieces from the base, the sides of the mold were gently pulled away from the platform. The clay was rolled off the corners, and a semi-finished...

In theory it would work, but this mold is well beyond its "best before" date. My platform was the 4th or 5th built from the mold. The first one was the widest and went to Wellcraft Coastal 33. The next few platforms went to Hatteras 34C's. Mine is being built for my Uniflite 28. Each...

Here are the mounting brackets for the swim ladder fully glassed into place. I put clay in the threads so that they wouldn't get filled with resin. The fiberglass used to cover the plates was wrapped up on the outer edge of the platform for additional strength.

During the second pass, I used more of a grinding process to get the edge of the platform flush with the edges of the mold. Final trimming to finished height will happen once the platform is out of the mold.

Now for some messy work. I took the platform outside to trim the edges down to the mold. To do this I use a 4" angle grinder with a diamond cutoff blade. This blade cuts well and can also be used for finish grinding. The first pass was to remove the bulk of extra fiberglass, leaving it about...

Now for some fun stuff. After a bunch of searching, I found a nice swim ladder that would work well for my project. It came with two mounting plates that were designed to sit on top of a platform and then the ladder would bolt through from the bottom. I don't want to have any fasteners...

Time for the final 3 layers of fiberglass. Two layers of 1708 biaxial followed by one layer of 3/4 mat. The biaxial goes down mat side towards the Nidacore. It's important to use the same type and number of layers on each side of the coring material. If this is not followed and one side is...

In preparation for the final layers of fiberglass, I applied a radius of fairing putty between the Nidacore and vertical sides of the platform. Fiberglass doesn't install easily into sharp corners, and this additional radius will help the fiberglass make the bend from flat to vertical. I also...

Once the Nidacore was bonded in place, all gaps between the inside edge of the platform and the coring material were filled with bonding putty. Here is a small summary of the process so far: - All 3 layers of fiberglass were installed without curing in between - The biaxial was installed mat...

Thank you Robert, the 360° rotation did the trick. Must be Microsoft logic ;)

As a side note, can anybody tell me how to rotate images 90° ?? This picture was taken holding the camera vertically. On my laptop I rotate it 90° so it views correctly. Once I upload, it's still off by 90°. I've also tried uploading the original picture without rotating it, still no good...

Now that the upper skin is complete, the next step is to cut 3/4" thick Nidacore coring material to fit inside. I notched out the coring in four places to allow solid fiberglass blocks to be installed. This will be where the diagonal support brackets eventually mount. The coring was adhered...

Once the Duratec cured, I laid in the first layers of fiberglass. 1 layer of mat, followed by 2 layers of 1708 biaxial.

After 6 coats of mold release wax and 2 coats of PVA, the mold is ready to go. Since the finished product is going to be painted, I elected to use Duratec instead of gelcoat. Here is the mold with several layers of Duratec sprayed in, next step is laying in the fiberglass. I also took the time...