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It seems that my port/house alternator has given up again. Does anybody have a good recommendation for a replacement on 8v71t's? I need high amperage as this engine is charging house bank for Outback inverter. Craig

Totally fed up with my old "protech" 32 volt 18 amp charger and "heart interface" inverter so am going to bight the bullet and spend the bucks on an "Outback". My question(s) is(are), the protech only put out 18 amps so should I upgrade the charging wires, and second, what do I do about charging...

Shellani's port fuel gauge is suddenly not reading properly...I hope! Was cruising yesterday and the gauge was reading empty. Didn't even check it b4 leaving the dock as refuelled only 40 hours ago. The forward tank companionway gauge shows 3/4 full. Probably an electrical issue so where do I...

I am not a Gimmy expert but understand that these may be some antique type of CCV. They are the "filters mounted on top of the engines.If it was your boat, what would you do? PS 8V71TI's Thanx Craig

Sorry folks but I have reviewed every thread and talked to all in the "know" and am still at a loss for a good solution. Shellani has a Protech 4 12 volt charger (for 3 8 d's) and a Protech 4 32v for the standard 2X32 banks. The inverter is a standalone Heart, All of these devices are quirky...

Fortunatley I didn't need it but my center wiper motor shorted out on the last cruise! The switch was off so I'm sure it's cooked now.(smelled very bad and was awfully hot by the time I got the wires disconnected!). Anybody have one they'd like to sell? Thanx Craig

I seem to have something strange happening so need some advice. I normally run, and charge, with my battery switch on "parallel". This has always been fine and I seem to have lots of juice on both 32v banks. Recently, I had a cell go on one battery in the PITA stbd bank so I replaced the lot...

I knew our decks were getting ugly, but didn't know how bad until I spent alot of elbow grease, scraping, sanding etc. to get rid of the Cetol. Craig

I have to strip all of the old varnish off handrails, hurricane doors, stern coaming etc. etc. The varnish is chipped, scaling, faded and is going to go! I really think I need to use some "stripper" but am worried about touching the Awlgrip. I could make a total career out of it and hand sand...

This looks like a wonderful yacht. If I was in the market I'd have a look. Why so cheap? Is it really the market? http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1972/Hatteras-Motor-Yacht-2006669/North-Miami/FL/United-States

My Hat is a 1972 53 and I have not figured out where the washer pump/water comes from. I presume it is fromt he potable tank but is there a separate pump or should it be part of the pressure system? At any rate, they don't work and I would appreciate your help in resolving. Thanx as always...

I believe that all three of my wiper motors are original (1972) and two of them run the perfect arc. The third one, however, is running about 20 degrees too far. Is there some way to adjust the total arc of the motor/gears etc.? Thanx Craig from rainy BC

Do I use the same hydrometer to test the cells on 6, 8 and 12 volt batteries? I've got about 60 cells to check so I would like to get it right first time. Thanx in advance!

I own a 1972 53 MY in Victoria BC and there are not a lot of Hat owners here. The engines have about 1600 hours and start quick and clean. We cruise at 12-1400 rpm and oil pressure, temp etc all good with no smoke. WOT in neutral negligible smoke...but...WOT in gear and we blow a lot of white...

I'm usually running at 13-1400 rpm (1972 53 stretched to 61) and life is great. If I try to run at 1800 plus, I get persistent white smoke. It is not steam. What is the most likely cause?...Engines tach out off flywheels at about 2150 and I believe the fuel is 1.5 years old. This vessel is new...