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Engine rebuild almost complete

  • Thread starter Thread starter Phasma2128
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We dried the hull by leaving the boat out of doors in a very windy area for months. I have seen other boats dried by using fans, or tenting and dehumidifiers, but the yard that did the hull way back when felt those weren't required. Their area (Crisfield, MD) is all the time windy, and that did the job. She had the typical Hatteras blisters- literally hundreds of them, but not deep, just in the gelcoat layer. They used VC Watertite to fill and fair, and Interprotect to recoat the hull.

Tom mentioned that when he was out offshore (I think trialing a boat that had been peeled and the bottom rebuilt) they hit something and a huge sheet of the rebuilt bottom came off- much bigger than a 4x8 section. It may be possible to peel a boat and rebuild the bottom to perform well, but he said he hadn't seen a Hatteras that ever needed it.

Someone asked about bottom paint- I have had good luck with SeaHawk CuKote. I also use that zinc spray on the metal parts, and plenty of it. Not the Pettit, the other stuff. I can't think of the name of it right now.
 
Thanks! I went with Interlux fiberglass bottom coat and then second coated with VC17. The “blisters” the Marina referred to were nothing more than 1” circular spots in the gel coat. No bump or blister. There were about 8-10 of them on the bow hull
 
I think we are ready for spring! The smile is painted, props replaced, engines rebuilt and a new smart TV mounted in the cabinet on the aft deck. We even took a quick trip to get our minds right. Check out my winter time putzing with video editing

Moving back into the Hatt is always a boat load of work! Really looking forward to regaining my sanity. Dang its hard getting older in Michigan
 
21k per prop.... Wow! A hard grounding could easily hit 100k to repair.
 
Its odd that you would say that. The insurance adjuster made the comment early on that it could exceed $100k. I didn't hit that amount but after going through what I went through I can see it going that high with a hard grounding. Adding in hull repair would easily take it over $100k
 
21k per prop.... Wow! A hard grounding could easily hit 100k to repair.
It's only a slight exaggeration to say the props on those 52my/cpmy's look like they came off a nuclear submarine. The first time I saw one out of the water I thought the same thing - what would that cost to fix. Because let's be real, you're going to touch bottom eventually. The shafts are bigger than your legs.
 
It's interesting to see how Hatteras started moving to deep reduction gears in the 90's. As each new model came out, you notice more and more changes to running gear and hull design. The addition of prop tunnels, air injection in the tunnels above the prop blades, differential steering linkage, etc, etc. Their engineering was cutting edge. Too bad all of that talent is gone now.
 
I do believe we have Hatts that are from the golden age of Hatteras.

Is a step down of 1:4.35 considered deep? Lol
 
It's only a slight exaggeration to say the props on those 52my/cpmy's look like they came off a nuclear submarine. The first time I saw one out of the water I thought the same thing - what would that cost to fix. Because let's be real, you're going to touch bottom eventually. The shafts are bigger than your legs.
I say the props are more like my current boat (67’ CMY) than my previous boat (SSN)…but I get your point - it’s all relative.
 
Now all I have to hope for is that the water level in the marina plus the dredging is enough to NOT run aground AGAIN! The Lake Michigan water level last month was 7” lower than last year at this time. We had a lot of rain last week but…. Staying positive………….bartender!
 
I say the props are more like my current boat (67’ CMY) than my previous boat (SSN)…but I get your point - it’s all relative.

Well everything's relative, especially in boating. In your case it sounds like you already got to drive the most badass expensive boat there is, I'm not sure it wouldn't all be downhill for me after that. I'd probably miss the torpedoes the most, those would come in real handy in Miami.

Maybe I'm just easily impressed, but this looks absurd to me on a 50' boat:

Prop.webp
Something I suspect their owners agree with whenever they dust the bottom.
 
I’m not sure “absurd” is accurate. The engineers did the math. These props are 4” larger than my previous. While that might be fairly significant, the engineering stated 42” was the maximum. These are 40s
 
I’m not sure “absurd” is accurate. The engineers did the math. These props are 4” larger than my previous. While that might be fairly significant, the engineering stated 42” was the maximum. These are 40s
I’m sure they probably tested multiple configurations, Hatts are well regarded when it comes to prop selection. I have no doubt they had a solid engineering reason for it. But 40" wheels on a 48' boat is an extremely unusual setup. I know the engineering reasoning behind it is that a larger slower turning prop is X% more efficient than a smaller faster turning prop because of less slip and cavitation. But when you go to one extreme in a design compromise, you bump into practical considerations.

One other boat I know of like was a customized 47' Grand Banks Europa built for one of my slip neighbors. He had custom ordered big Cats in it with a similar setup, big reduction gears, shafts the size of your legs, and 40"+ wheels. He was forever hauling that boat out because he'd touch bottom and need to have one of them fixed, and none of the divers around here wanted to change them in the water.

Performance was something else, that Grand Banks could keep up with most sportfishers.
 
Congrats! If you don't mind my asking, what ran the rebuild price so high? I have an in-frame about to start with estimated 20 to 30k for an 871 natural. Makes me nervous to think price could jump a lot. One man show, who I trust, but trying to anticipate anything crazy.
I have a pair of 871 naturals that were just rebuilt 50 hours ago. I purchased them for replacements for my 53 Hatteras. I no longer need them and they are for sale. They are with transmissions Allison M2 2/1 ratio
 
I have a pair of 871 naturals that were just rebuilt 50 hours ago. I purchased them for replacements for my 53 Hatteras. I no longer need them and they are for sale. They are with transmissions Allison M2 2/1 ratio
You should start a new thread for this in the "for sale" section.
 
“He was forever hauling that boat out because he'd touch bottom and need to have one of them fixed, and none of the divers around here wanted to change them in the water.”

Why would you even put that out there in the universe CWW? Cripe if I had to go through all of this again I’d have Towboat drag me out in the middle of Lake M and go down with the ship.
 
Congrats! If you don't mind my asking, what ran the rebuild price so high? I have an in-frame about to start with estimated 20 to 30k for an 871 natural. Makes me nervous to think price could jump a lot. One man show, who I trust, but trying to anticipate anything crazy.
 
As was pointed out before, it was $42k for props. The rest was engine rebuild
 
“He was forever hauling that boat out because he'd touch bottom and need to have one of them fixed, and none of the divers around here wanted to change them in the water.”

In case anyone in FL ever needs a contact for big wheels to be changed in the water I have one. Former Navy diver. Does all the big commercial boats around here overnight so they are up and running the next day. Also a great guy, reasonable, and a pleasure to do business with.

If you want to verify his credentials check with Wayne at Anclote Diesel who is also a pleasure to do business with.
 
Just in case I thought I was nearing the end….. the mechanic called today and said everything is back together but…… he accidentally cut the transducer cable. Our water levels are really low right now. I’m thinking the cable should NOT be spliced. Any thoughts?
 

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