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Galley Maid Head: Won't Flush

  • Thread starter Thread starter 53hatt
  • Start date Start date
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racclarkson@gmail.com said:
Even though you've pumped her out, sounds like your holding tank(s) dip tube has suffered that all too familiar fate of corroding away. On a normal GM set-up, that's the only way waste will back up into a bowl. Sounds like your going to have to eliminate that possibility before proceeding.
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Great point Robert. Nasty job. Maybe you can recommend your fecal matter removal system journeyman. That guy seems to know what he was doing.
 
racclarkson@gmail.com said:
Even though you've pumped her out, sounds like your holding tank(s) dip tube has suffered that all too familiar fate of corroding away. On a normal GM set-up, that's the only way waste will back up into a bowl. Sounds like your going to have to eliminate that possibility before proceeding.
Click to expand...
I have worked on my neighbors 53 Hatt and the pickup in the holding tank was half gone. Replaced it (a dirty job) and all was well.
 
oscarvan said:
There is ZERO connection between the two in the proper setup..... It's one motor with two separate pumps on the two ends of it's spindle......The hoses do not meet.....

You have any pictures of this engineering marvel?
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I have seen galley maid pumps with a crossover line between the bleed ports, my understanding was that it was to prevent suction side running dry / help prime. I also understand that pump needed to be below water line for this to work, but the disadvantage is, if waste rotor or stater are worn then water can leak by filling holding tank if it is below water line.

I agree some pictures would help.
 
My boat has a valving system that diverts the discharge for each head to either the tank or overboard. Are you sure the discharge valves to the tank are open? If it can discharge overboard try opening those valves temporarily to see if it will drain the bowl. If so then you have holding tank issues or issues getting it there.
 
I'd like to thank everyone that responded with advice for my issue. My next step is going to be the replacement of the dip tube in the holding tank, as the behavior I am encountering is that the tube is probably holed or rotted off. The tank vent tube was already replaced but didn't do much to counter the issue of not being able to pump completely. And the video was actually kind of informative. I did contact Sams Marine about the availability of a pre-made dip tube assembly for this boat, but am prepared to fabricate one if needed.
 
racclarkson@gmail.com said:
Even though you've pumped her out, sounds like your holding tank(s) dip tube has suffered that all too familiar fate of corroding away. On a normal GM set-up, that's the only way waste will back up into a bowl. Sounds like your going to have to eliminate that possibility before proceeding.
Click to expand...

Robert, thanks for the advice. I was already leaning that way before you posted. I've replaced the vent tubing, and the pumpout tubing was replaced shortly before we bought the boat. The dip tube is apparently original and is my next go-to, probably tomorrow morning so I can tackle the issue and make Lowes runs as needed.

All of y'all say a prayer for me. We've owned the boat just under a month and our shakedown cruise to our home port in Fort Myers FL proved to have shaken some things loose.
 
rwaldrop13 said:
Robert, thanks for the advice. I was already leaning that way before you posted. I've replaced the vent tubing, and the pumpout tubing was replaced shortly before we bought the boat. The dip tube is apparently original and is my next go-to, probably tomorrow morning so I can tackle the issue and make Lowes runs as needed.

All of y'all say a prayer for me. We've owned the boat just under a month and our shakedown cruise to our home port in Fort Myers FL proved to have shaken some things loose.
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Sleeve the existing dip tube with 1-1/2" (if I recall) PVC. Measure carefully and cut a 45 on the business end. You'll be hard pressed to get it out once it's in with sealant. But it will survive us all.

When the time comes (and it will) to rebuild your head pump, you may find this short video to also be informative. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ca8W6qyDL9Y
 
racclarkson@gmail.com said:
Sleeve the existing dip tube with 1-1/2" (if I recall) PVC. Measure carefully and cut a 45 on the business end. You'll be hard pressed to get it out once it's in with sealant. But it will survive us all.

When the time comes (and it will) to rebuild your head pump, you may find this short video to also be informative. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ca8W6qyDL9Y
Click to expand...

Your videos are priceless, but I am fortunate that my only waste pump is sitting on the outboard side of the port engine room and easily accessible. However my intent is to replace both midships and aft heads with Dometic Masterflush 7160, which will eliminate the need for the Galley Maid waste pump as they're an all-in-one unit.
 
Well this is embarrassing but we've all done something like this :confused:. I threw out notes from PO's verbal walkthru of boat systems and started hand-tracing septic system. I have a separate pump for the aft head after all, and the midships head is the only toilet running off the port engine room macerator pump. However, the discharge line from that pump to the tank turned out to have a significant droop where it had been tucked up above the port drive shaft instead of being mounted with a lift at the pump then drop to the tank. So I will have to replace that line or lengthen it so I can route it properly. Along the way I also pulled the factory T-fitting off the holding tank, as my boat was built with a threaded flange on the tank. Someone before me - PO doesn't remember doing it but he was only second owner(?) sleeved the diptube with a PVC insert. I was able to put a new brass T-fitting on without breaking the bank because local Ferguson Plumbing Supply had one they had marked for clearance. I have a new cleanout cap on there as well, so I can open the tank from there for a visual monitor until I can install a tank monitor system. Looks like my biggest issue with the holding tank pumpouts was that I had been so diligent in flushing and pumping the last 2 weeks, was that I was emptying the tank to the point where there wasn't enough to pump out witout running water into it. Once I reroute the discharge line for the midships head, I believe I should have that operational again, and if so will adopt the monthly vinegar dump in the 2 operating heads. We're planning to replace the Galley Maid system with Dometics within the next year, so we're just trying to make the boat habitable until then. Again, I want to thank all of y'all especially Robert (ASLAN). Your help and videos were informative, especially since if I decide to retrofit holding tank pickup tube again means cutting it out and constructing the same type of plate you have. But I hope not to have to do that.
 
You’re welcome, of course. One comment. If you have to add water to get the pump out going, your dip tube isn’t long enough. How short? How much water do you have to add? A little bit, no big deal. But, I’d like to know I got out all I could.
 
I don't understand how adding water works. If adding water raises the level to reach the dip tube, doesn't it stop pumping as soon as the water you added is pumped out and now the level doesn't reach the dip tube again?
 
Actually, it appears the PO's previous pumpouts being done in haste resulted in a lot of sludge at the bottom of the tank and I had to liquify it to pump it off. That has been the goal the last week or so, and finally paid off.
 
Then use a treatment chemical to liquify the effluent.
 
rwaldrop13 said:
Actually, it appears the PO's previous pumpouts being done in haste resulted in a lot of sludge at the bottom of the tank and I had to liquify it to pump it off. That has been the goal the last week or so, and finally paid off.
Click to expand...

Oh, thanks. That makes sense.
 
The recommendation there was to use a slurry made up of Cascade Complete powder and let it sit. I've followed that recommendation and thats why it looks like we have successfully cleared the sludge. The vendor recommends Cascade as being similar to digestor or Ridx and much more inexpensive. They've used it on their own boats for several years. Now that I have that resolved I just have to reroute the midships head discharge hose to eliminate the sag.
 
rwaldrop13 said:
The recommendation there was to use a slurry made up of Cascade Complete powder and let it sit. I've followed that recommendation and thats why it looks like we have successfully cleared the sludge. The vendor recommends Cascade as being similar to digestor or Ridx and much more inexpensive. They've used it on their own boats for several years. Now that I have that resolved I just have to reroute the midships head discharge hose to eliminate the sag.
Click to expand...
Learned something new. Drain the dishwasher to the blackwater tank...well maybe not.
 
racclarkson@gmail.com said:
Learned something new. Drain the dishwasher to the blackwater tank...well maybe not.
Click to expand...

Good afternoon Robert, and everyone else. Well, I have tried rerouting the discharge line for the midships GM macerator pump with no change in performance, and the waste priming plug is seized in place. The waste hose from the toilet to the pump has flow (checked with fresh water). Decision has been made to replace the toilets with Dometic macerating toilets that will discharge directly to the holding tank. This will eliminate the GM pumps and associated problems. Once again I need to thank everyone for the info, advice and support. We're coming up on one-month anniversary of ownership, and the next project is the portside galley slider window- It has a leak, and every Hatteras we looked at in our boat search had a leak over the dining table. Yes, I said port... This Hatteras 54' is laid out backwards compared to every other Hat we looked at.
 
A previous owner replaced both of our galley windows with one piece tinted glass. We have never felt the need to open them at any time. If the Admiral is cooking, the generator is running and we are air conditioned. If not then we have the bow hatch and the salon door open for through ventilation. Also when at anchor the boat is pointed into the wind making side windows less effective. If in a marina and side on to the breeze we are air conditioned so it does not matter.

Something to consider.......
 
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